New to Fesstool

floridawriter

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
7
Greetings,

I ordered my first Festool, the Rotex 150 sander. I have great hopes for it helping me with my project: restoring a 40 year old fiberglass sailboat currently taking up my side yard at home (http://www.bristol29.com ). The sanding challenge is to sand down all the non-skid on the decks and cabintop. Any advise as to the correct abrassive to use would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

David
www.birstol29.com
 
  I'd try Cristal for the hard work of removing the finish, then Rubin on bare wood. I would love to see pictures of the process in you have the time to work and shoot pictures. Good luck and welcome to the site.
 
I'd use either a 40 grit Cristal or 24 grit Saphir, but be careful or you'll cut right through the deck.  Using one of the CT vacs with the RO150 will seriously reduce the amount of dust you'll breathe (and wear).

Fred

 
First "Hi" & "Welcome!!!"

The RO 150 is both exactly the right tool for the job and the a tool that can inflict untold damage to Glass Reinforced Plastic in the wrong hands. 

Although the RO 150 with 24 grit or 40 grits are great bottom paint removal, they can cause deep groves in the gelcoat that will make for lots of fairing....  be very careful and "keep the sander moving!!!".    These grits are fine for below the water line but must be used with great digression above the water line.  Although the RO 150 has an edge guide, it is no edge tool for fine work.  I would suggest you look at the DX 93 for edge work & the LS 130 linear sander for contours that mirror the motion of the hand.  Using the DX 93 & the LS 130 in combination make's Bright work go quickly.

And as already mentioned,  a vacuum needs to be attached to these sanders for this work. The RO 150 will if used properly work great for the larger areas, but if forced into small areas will due damage gouging inside & out side surfaces.  In these areas, less is more...  slow down & use detail sanders, or hand sand. 

You did not mention the type of non-skid you will be placing on the surface.  Of the three common the after market applications the glue down rubber mat covers up the most sins, but both the paint on with grit added or the not for the DIYer gelcoat methods require a very fair, no grit marks surface. 

The Bristol sailboats although a quality boat, like all boats of this time frame were laid up by hand, thus they have many voids that lay just below the brittle surface.  These you will have to fill but filling alone will not "hold" the surface together, and will crack back almost immediately though your freshly finished surface unless you apply multiple layers of fiberglass cloth to hold & rebuild a continuous surface.  But of course these repairs will have to be faired.

Again "Welcome" and the greatest of success with your project.

jim
 
Thanks for all the tips on abrasives. I will probably use something finer than 24 grit, more in the 60 grit range to start.

The nonskid is molded into the deck gelcoat, then painted over with 10 year old Awlgrip with nonskid beaded added. Additionally there is a lot of filled epoxy to sand so I think the 150 is the right tool. I have a multtude of other sanders for finer close in work and for the really tight areas I will use a Fein Multimaster.

Thanks for the welcome!

David
 
bruegf said:
I'd use either a 40 grit Cristal or 24 grit Saphir, but be careful or you'll cut right through the deck.  Using one of the CT vacs with the RO150 will seriously reduce the amount of dust you'll breathe (and wear).

Fred

    All that , plus it will make the abrasives last longer and sand better!

Seth
 
Welcome FloridaWriter to the slippery slope! You'll find lots of good information here on the FOG.

I do have one question, though... that's a pretty big wheel for a Bristol 29, isn't it? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
 
Good heavens! This thing is the Ultimate Sanding Machine!! I just tried it out for the first time on some of the non-skid..with some of the sample paper that came in the box..crystal 60 grit..it is effortless, very controlable, and cuts thru the old paint and nonskid immediately. It is well balanced, not nearly as heavy as it appears, very light weight in fact. A great tool...

David
 
Ok, full disclosure time:)

David is my brother--I was visiting him down in Florida over Christmas and I took him over to Woodcraft to see the Festoolies. We were trying to sand off the non-skid on his deck and cabin top on his Bristol 29, SallyB, with a bunch of different sanders. In frustration, I suggested he get the RO150 and he'd do it in a day, instead of the rest of his life with everything else...

David of course has insisted that this is the only Festool he'll ever buy.

Right....

BTW Dave's an amazing guy who's done incredible stuff on his Bristol using pretty basic tools. Anybody who has worked on boats knows they are 3D puzzles that have to be strong, water proof, and tidy. Since he's my big brother I might be biased but I doubt it... ;D
 
I just want to say that the RO 150 is simply amazing. Not only does it do in minutes what takes hours if not longer with lesser sanders, but even using the wrong abrasive it does a finer, better and faster job than anything I've used before. I sanded epoxy yesterday and the Titan 2 paper I ordered still hasn't arreived, so I used 180 grit Brilliance. It smoothed the epoxy as smooth as if I had wet sanded it by hand with 400 wet or dry in a matter of minutes, leveling runs and sags perfectly. The tool is truly amazing!
 
I sure hope you are using a vacuum! (or at least a respirator).

Sounds like you are creating some really fine dust particles with that 180 grit Brillant

Charles
 
Here is a "before" picture of my boat's nonskid:

   
seahood29.jpg


Now, here is the same area, after 10 minutes of sanding with the Rotex (using the wrong abrasive!):

   
sanding_nonskid1.jpg
 
   
sanding_nonskid2.jpg


I wet the surface with a hose before taking the pictures.

David
 
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