New tsc55 and new guard rail

[Alwaysridingbike]

I’m a real newbie to track saws. I understand the blade toeing process sedgetool video with the business card makes sense . However I have a new saw and new rail and I don’t see how I can do the first cut on the splinter guard first before adjusting the toe angle . Seems to me you need a straight cut edge to calibrate to. If I go with the factory setting on the blade angle for the first cut of splinter guard, and then find the toe angle needs adjusting , will the next pass potentially trim the splinter guard a bit more? Thx for any advice here .

 

[Frank-Jan]

If you have a new saw, you can presume the toe in is set correctly at the factory. Just make sure you adjust the play on the guiderail before making that first cut.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

As [member=1993]Frank-Jan[/member] said, I have never seen or heard about one needing a toe adjustment straight out of the box. I suppose anything is possible, but not likely.
I would assume that there is some kind of fixturing system in place at final assembly, to make sure that the adjustment is correct.

 

[Alwaysridingbike]

Thanks ya I also assumed that just wanted that idea backed up by those that know. And yes I will make sure the slop is removed before making the cut. I also heard about it being difficult to maintain allignment at the end of the track. One guy extended the Center groove with a piece of wood cut the same size to keep the saw straight as the blade passes the end of track.

 

[mino]

Thanks ya I also assumed that just wanted that idea backed up by those that know. And yes I will make sure the slop is removed before making the cut. I also heard about it being difficult to maintain allignment at the end of the track. One guy extended the Center groove with a piece of wood cut the same size to keep the saw straight as the blade passes the end of track.

That is not "end of the track" but *beyond* the track. One would do it when the track is too short for the cut.

When cutting, one needs the track to be about 40 cm (16") longer than the cut. 30 cm (12") at the beginning to "place" the saw and 10 cm (4") at the end for still guiding the saw as it passes the end of the material.

Some novices use the "plunge marks" on the saw and then are unhappy about a bad end of the cut - but those marks are only for full plunges. NOT for placing the saw during a normal cut when plunge is in the 1" territory and the blade does not reach to them.

Also, one should always start AND stop the saw while still on the track. That prevents the still-moving blade making any undesirable dents.

One way to ensure this is marking lines on the track for those 12" at the "start" and 4" at the end to easily see the cut is fully contained between them.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

One guy extended the Center groove with a piece of wood cut the same size to keep the saw straight as the blade passes the end of track.

"Passes the end of the track" is the problem here. You are not supposed to go beyond the end.

 

[Alwaysridingbike]

I’m talking about the first cut of the splinter guard. I heard the end of that cut can get sloppy as the saw passes the end of the track

 

[Michael Kellough]

The only time the saw should pass the end of the guide rail is when the rail is joined to another rail. Until that occasion, just leave the ends of the splinter guard un-trimmed.

As has been said, don’t mess with the toe adjustment unless necessary.
Very unlikely on a new saw. Usually isn’t required until the saw has been dropped from the bench.

 

[Alwaysridingbike]

Ok ya. Good point about leaving the ends untrimmed. I don’t plan on joining multiple tracks but you never know.

 

[Michael Kellough]

My answer was a little short. While you shouldn’t run the saw off the end of the rail for the sake of the cut quality (since as soon as a guide jib leaves the rail the saw is not constrained to straight line movement) you were only asking about trimming the splinter guard.

It doesn’t matter if the saw cuts the splinter guard a little crooked at the ends since you won’t be cutting wood when the saw is at that point (unless you buy and join to another rail) so you won’t be using that short section of splinter guard for alignment either.

In fact, you should snip the extreme corners of the splinter guard at about a 45 degree angle so the plastic strip is less likely to snag on things and start pulling the strip off the rail. Some people put a  piece around the end of the splinter guard to keep it from starting to come off, which they tend to do.

 

[rst]

Worrying about toein really only is a issue when adjusting more than one saw to the same track. I have a 75 corded 55, 55 TSC and HKC and all were adjusted to cut 3mm off the aluminum edge of my rails.

 

[sancho57]

no offense but your over thinking this.

as you were already told you dont need to adjust the toe in.

Simply place the correct length of rail on the piece and plunge the saw and make the cut.

The correct length of rail should exceed the length of the piece your cutting long enough to make the cut leaving some of the splitter guard uncut on both ends.

If ya cant then you need to 1) get a shorter piece to cut, 2) get a longer rail, 3) join 2 rails together to get the correct length.

that the beauty of a plunge/track saw is its simplicity.