NEW TSO TPG-30 Parallel Guide

[member=61691]TSO_Products[/member]

Ill let ya know tomorrow as mines should be delivered tomorrow and Monday.

Bought r/h side then the next day bought l/h side and another grs. Some ones coming Monday and the other Tomorrow

 
jobsworth said:
[member=61691]TSO_Products[/member]

Ill let ya know tomorrow as mines should be delivered tomorrow and Monday.

Bought r/h side then the next day bought l/h side and another grs. Some ones coming Monday and the other Tomorrow

Your going to like them!

I'm on my second project - sewing machine cabinet for my daughter. Last weekend had half day to work on the dovetailed drawers. I used the GRS/TPG for most of he components but couple drawers have sides narrower than the rail width so I ended up cutting those on the table saw.

I was going to try the narrow stock rods on the TPG but didn’t feel like messing with it and didn’t want to take off my calibrated plunger on the flip stop. I'll probably mess around with it some more this weekend. Need to gain confidence in cutting narrow stock with this setup before applying it to a project piece.

Was thinking another set of flip stops dedicated to the rods might be nice but that a little $pricey$ at about $50/per.

Would be nice if the TSO far end t/track attachment for the second thin stock rod didn’t go under the rail like the GRS's. Maybe attach the t-track like Woodpecker’s or Seneca’s parallel guides to the rail top groove. This way you wouldn’t have to worry about the square needing to register the end of the the wood on the far end and allow more freedom for the position of this second material stop.

I agree with Hans/TSO/others that the TS is better for thinner rips but some don’t have a TS and in my case if I need to drag out and set up my TS in my space constrained garage/shop might as well use that instead of the GRS/TPG for all of my work.

I'm sure as more get their hands on the TPG's there will be ideas/experience on how to accurately produce thin rips.

Mike
 
My R/H side came today. I must say it was pkg real good. Not even a scratch on the box.

Well done Hans
 
I received my TPG50 kit along with the guide rail connecting bars yesterday. For some reason, delivery took a month to the UK. Had to pay £73.10 (82.08 Euros) customs charge [sad]. UPS have no way of paying this online and only accept cash and they have no facility to provide a receipt.  The drive was great though as he signed the box with his driver ID number and name.

With customs charge added this has cost me 507 Euros which is expensive but the quality of the product is very high.

Items were packaged very well. I don't think there is any damage (have only checked the small tracks so far). The GRC12 guide rail connecting bars were also in the box as I ordered these at the same time. This cost an extra $10 in postage but maybe the postage for the TPG50 alone should have been sufficient to cover this extra small weight?

The TPG50 is well engineered as are the guide rail connecting bars. These also work in connecting the parallel guide tracks together nicely but not needed as the three lengths of the TPG should cover most work. Also, you would not be able to use the stops where the connecting bar is connected as the tracks are single slot t tracks not double.

I sold my Festool parallel guides including the large storage case for a very good price which covered the cost of these TPG50 and GRC12 and still left me in profit  [big grin].

Tariq
 
Hans,

Are Axminster UK going to stock this at some point? I'd like to get hold of the TPG-50 but I'd rather buy from a UK dealer without having the import duties and shipping costs for a single package.
 
Working on a sewing cabinet project and thought I'd show off my TPG. The project required two sheets of ply cut into 12 pieces. I was going to make my rip cuts first and thought I'd see how accurate of a cut I could get with only using a RHS t-track and TSO square.

Don't know if I was lucky but I was shocked to find I was only off by 1/32" ove 8'. I measured from the back side of the rail to the edge of the board - so probably not the best way to check but I'm still impressed:

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L0aMcsqVu6HuveZF5O7Z-Zr1fr42a54qVoFMjsF97r2XF2DO780cQP4C7BVwNlPUr_rlmhkcaCdUnBOcgv9K9ni9UHueJoAgLFlthYnzn19o3KMiuxKAlUjUs4m_4z3Cn7md0SinxcRWRY7eor53HMY3drTzzadOZi5tNuJA_tMrSrwN_f527XxuMtSvPVGtywPBsbDc159UHEsA7Zf23Jjjv6DpgT8P-AuV6PjGFERI9iD9uY5gWMzu1dMD8Wu9PhQfcO5Y3o6Vc8Lq-6tZS9LXJpts3b2qAwnYRssf3UiSfWftFZjvmTjRFuNA82Plc2u1s_bcaSIjyY9S5uYokiHDZzyRqcSloDCic-90rFHxLfJFdjJWSz9Wa8Yd7XUMZ5TZR-SUBQDrv-JSg6sA8uSf9A2k5oHDdzsR2UpLPXtNRwEKFFBIeX5vh3ZHUnyUtm2Bi2-BDjent1cyDF6hp9v8XHOSsZYumRXUVU7FrGuEvGy2MslWe8yTSGpGrdX31-NSSrNMqZhTZG-hdrmlM7oiR-4L_O-H4HeKHC9P4_9LQMd501F8eVA-jY2-3vzsBmvcXkc8lMMFtvOWE0X-VFbAa5XNTFjE2eaYdkWWxcmJfGy4R0cTKLN5R1YBOgGFKVgqPuM0NAf3FrvuXKCZ9B2By-vpQYQ=w480-h640-no


Even though this looked to be acceptable accuracy I added my LHS TPG for my cuts:

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I've been working with another track saw systems for many years but this was not only quicker but more accurate than my previous method of breaking down sheet goods. I still had to measure every piece vertical/horizontal/diagonal but my confidence is growing.

Some comments on the system:

1) When I put the various length t-tracks on I held them toward the rail when tightening. Seems like the stop plunger is in the correct position for all tracks w/o need for calibration but I need to verify this with test cuts.

(Edited: test cut with all 6 t-tracks and found the 20” & 30” LHS/RHS are almost spot on to each other but both 50” cut 1/16” oversized. Have to think how to correct for this as I don’t want to calibrate for every setup.)

2) On size of the tracks. A 50" was added from requests but my project had a couple cuts just over that. I just marked them and cut. So maybe no need for the 50" track? This is my second project with the TPG but finding the 30" may be all you need for most of the work.

3) Wish the LHS t-track didn't depend on a square that attaches to the underside of the rail. On setup it's one more thing that takes time to make sure the tracks are centered - i.e. the sheet needs to be trapped between the squares. Maybe a rail connector similar to WP and Seneca PEG's?

4) Holding settings. I saw complaints about the WP system with so many connectors losing setting with common bumping of the stops. I actually found the same on the TPG! This occurred at both the flipstop to t-track and flipstop plunger. I found you really need to tighten everything very tight.

Mike
 
Just got my set delivered yesterday. Tried the GRS16 and had perfect results squaring a plastic panel that I needed to do. Cannot wait to try the rest of the pieces out...
 
I purchased the TPG-20 & TPG-30 Parallel Guide System (Right Hand) set and used them for the first time a few days ago to cut some plywood.

I am impressed, was very easy to install and calibrate on my GRS-16 guide rail square.  Then set the cursor to the width of the cuts I wanted to make and made the cuts.  All very easy and accurate.

Good product!

Bob
 
I know all tools have their limits but I'm having fun working on a project that I'm trying to use the TPG on as much as possible.

For all my panel cuts the GRS/TPG system is spot on! I ran into a small issue over the weekend when I was using the GRS/TPG to cut some hardwood drawer fronts which I would usually do on the TS & SCMS. The parts were 8-1/2" x 9-1/2". I was surprised when I found the cut to be off by almost 1/16" when I was within 1/32" over 96" on the ply cuts. The parts were wider at the end of the cut.

I was thinking that this was probably the result of the part moving as I cut it. Not as much anti-slip pad on the piece and not much area registering against the square.

I have the RH & LH TPG. I know the LH was developed for the long cuts but was thinking it may have helped for material trying to move on my small pieces. If I had the TPG material stops at the top & bottom of the piece to be cut this would resist it from moving during the cut. May try this out this weekend.

Mike
 
Is there a way of using the TSO parallel guides in a shop made MFT (using the parf guide system). I’ve seen members use it with the swing mount on an MFT, but is there any other way of attaching it eg with rails dogs?

Thanks!
 
AndrewG said:
Is there a way of using the TSO parallel guides in a shop made MFT (using the parf guide system). I’ve seen members use it with the swing mount on an MFT, but is there any other way of attaching it eg with rails dogs?

Thanks!

[member=16995]AndrewG[/member] -  you raise an interesting question.

There is no reason not to use the TSO Parallel Guide on a shop made 20mm pattern workbench just as you can use the system on any flat surface without any holes at all.

Help me picture a situation where a hinged arrangement would really be helpful for ripping.
Can you provide some specific examples of workpiece dimensions you are trying to rip? Typically ripping involves a larger workpiece or even a full sheet to start with. The idea with track saws is to take the smaller tools to the larger workpiece.

The TSO Parallel Guide is so easy to handle and move around, we find it simpler to leave the sheet of material where it is and move the Parallel Guide and guide rail – either still assembled, or as Tom Bader (tjbnwi on the Fog) has shown earlier in this thread, unsnap the GRS-16 with the Parallel Track still attached and then move/relocate the Guide Rail. This is especially helpful if you have a very long Guide Rail or connected pair.

Tell us a little more about your idea – we are always interested in different approaches to the work.

Hans
 
Hi Hans,

I was more so referring to a cross cut operation rather than ripping similar to how the Festool MFT works, but without the swing mount etc. My original plan was to make my MFT bench, then use a fence with a scale secured with fence dogs and have my rail secured with parf dogs/clips. Then I just set my measurement, bring my piece to the fence and away I go.

So I was wondering if there is a way of making the TPG work in this way? Or is more of a case of bringing the guides to the work piece?

Reading your reply however, it seems the parallel guides are rather easy to take on/off and may be an alternative option to having a fence secured to the MFT.

I hope this make sense.

Cheers

 
AndrewG said:
Hi Hans,

I was more so referring to a cross cut operation rather than ripping similar to how the Festool MFT works, but without the swing mount etc. My original plan was to make my MFT bench, then use a fence with a scale secured with fence dogs and have my rail secured with parf dogs/clips. Then I just set my measurement, bring my piece to the fence and away I go.

So I was wondering if there is a way of making the TPG work in this way? Or is more of a case of bringing the guides to the work piece?

Reading your reply however, it seems the parallel guides are rather easy to take on/off and may be an alternative option to having a fence secured to the MFT.

I hope this make sense.

Cheers

[member=16995]AndrewG[/member] - you said it: bring the TSO parallel guides to the workpiece  - they're easy-on / easy-off.

Hans
 
Rusty Miller said:
What has happened to the videos from #231 and #287?

[member=53]Rusty Miller[/member],

I have no clue. I watched the videos to see if I had music in the background, sometimes YT will pull those.

Here they are again;



Tom
 
Thanks Tom but they are not showing up! Do you have a YouTube channel?

Rusty
 
Tom's videos are here:  https://www.youtube.com/user/MrTjbnwi/videos

It seems that the forum software might not be liking youtube "share" links.

If you want to insert a youtube video here:

    1.  Go the the video.
    2.  Copy the internet address in the browser bar
    3.  In your post select the Insert Hyperlink option
    4.  Paste the internet address
    5.  Complete your post and hit post.

That should work.

Peter
 
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