new york loft

nydesign

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Jul 24, 2011
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This is a project I've been working on since June. It was a build out of 5000 sq ft of open commercial space, into a residential apartment in downtown Manhattan.

My part consisted of building and painting the door frames, doors & floor molding, a whole lot of window seats, some large solid oak entry frames,
wood paneled columns, a wall with wood panels and paneled doors, some bath vanities, some cabinet areas, and so on. I still have projects I'm working
on in the space, the owners keep adding little things as the work progress's.

Festools I used were an RO125, a ETS125, DTS400, a TS75, TS55, my old trusty CT22, a domino, and a few other's.

On to the work, the first job I used the Domino for was making wood panels to wrap two rectangular columns.
The corners are mitered, I used the dominos to align and glue the corners tight. The TS75 was used to cut the miters in the
white rift oak ply. When the corners were put together the result was an extremely sharp corner! Guys on the site were
amazed how precise the corners were, I had to sand them down so people did not cut themselves on them.

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making them,

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The solid white rift oak frame was one of my favorite things I've done for the apt. It's 4/4, I used the RO125
to sand it from 50 to 180 grit. I made a small mock up first to make sure I would get the cuts in the right direction
for the compound  mitered corners. The elevator doors in the background are going to get the same treatment.

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this wall is still being worked on, there was some debate on which hinges to use to hide the hardware, pivot won out.

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A lot of time was spent prepping and spraying the trim work and doors. I used an accu-spray 230 turbine and their #10 gun.
I spray all water based finishes (enduro now owned by general), it makes life easier.

tape and plastic for the floor molding
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door frames, I used the DTS400 to sand between coats

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we turned the master bedroom into a spray booth for the doors,

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This 3'x15' counter was going to be a huge slab of teak, now it's going to be marble  [sad]
I was really looking forward to the slab  [crying]

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one nice perk, I had room to set up a shop area on the floor below which is empty.

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I'll post more pics as I finish the rest of the projects.

thanks for looking!

- J
 
great looking space. the collum looks great, those miters are perfect.
is that solid wood

i wouldnt be gone on the doors . i think they are a bit plane
 
That is going to be SOME apartment! 5000 sq. feet in downtown Manhattan- you must be looking at $5m at least! Wow!

What a great job!
 
Those columns look very slick!  Pulling off big miter wraps like that is always very satisfying.

Where did you source the rift cut oak?  Is it mdf core or veneer core? 
 
I agree, those columns look awesome as does all the work you are doing in there.  It's great how the grain matches/"wraps" around the column.  I'm sure it's a newbie question but what creates the horizontal gaps between the pieces as you go up the column? [embarassed]
 
Great work!
Looks fantastic. I really like the look of the rift cut oak it is beautiful and the joinery is excellent.
Thanks for sharing
Can you tell who the designer was?
How do you like using plastic for masking. Unless it is just hanging in place and a heavy enough gauge, I haven't had great luck when spray painting, stuff always comes "undone" and then sticks to the coating. I just use brown paper, it can hold it's own when I get close to it with the gun.
Tim
 
Alan m said:
great looking space. the collum looks great, those miters are perfect.
is that solid wood

i wouldnt be gone on the doors . i think they are a bit plane

thanks,
The wood around the big entrance frame is solid, the wood around the columns and on the walls is veneer core ply.

Richard Leon said:
That is going to be SOME apartment! 5000 sq. feet in downtown Manhattan- you must be looking at $5m at least! Wow!

What a great job!

thanks :) it's up there in price, a realtor estimated it could fetch around $7-8M.
it's a great space to work in, only problem is going home, my place feels awfully small.

Vindingo said:
Those columns look very slick!  Pulling off big miter wraps like that is always very satisfying.

Where did you source the rift cut oak?  Is it mdf core or veneer core?  

The miter's were not too hard using the ts75 made it pretty simple. I have an older ts55 I used to use for miters, that saw would barley
make it through 3/4 stock at 45 degrees. I killed it once doing that, the motor began smoking and died.
I had a real problem with one of the columns, I took a ton of measurements, but I failed to notice the column was not plumb vertically.
When I got to the top one side was a half inch off, that ate up my 1/2" buffer I gave the panels. I spent an hour getting the top into place.

I got the veneer core rift oak from Atlantic Plywood out of NJ, I had also called Roberts Plywood, Manhattan Laminates, and Condon Lumber to
get pricing. All my solid lumber I get from Condon lumber in White Plains NY. The cost of the white rift oak sheets was around $120 per 4x8.
I only needed one side showing, so the backs have a much lower grade. In some cases the backs look like backs, many of the sheets though it
would have been a toss up which side to use.

rookie08 said:
I agree, those columns look awesome as does all the work you are doing in there.  It's great how the grain matches/"wraps" around the column.  I'm sure it's a newbie question but what creates the horizontal gaps between the pieces as you go up the column? [embarassed]

Thanks, because of how the grain runs only half of the corners match, but the ones that don't look good also. It would have taken twice as many sheets to match every corner.
The gaps are strips of solid oak, 1/2" thick by 3/4" tall. I gave them a stain before placing them between the panels. The client wanted a contrast between the gaps and the panels.
btw that's not a noob question  [wink]

Tim Raleigh said:
Great work!
Looks fantastic. I really like the look of the rift cut oak it is beautiful and the joinery is excellent.
Thanks for sharing
Can you tell who the designer was?
How do you like using plastic for masking. Unless it is just hanging in place and a heavy enough gauge, I haven't had great luck when spray painting, stuff always comes "undone" and then sticks to the coating. I just use brown paper, it can hold it's own when I get close to it with the gun.
Tim

Thank You :) I'm a fan of rift oak now, I really love the grain on it!
The design was sort of left up to me. The client wanted a clean and modern look. The GC gave me the list of projects, and they left the
choice of materials and design to me. I did a mock up on the columns showing them the wood, and the client helped choose the final color.
I also showed them a veneer sample book I have. They really liked swiss pearwood, but after estimating the cost we went with the rift oak  [tongue]

Funny you ask about the plastic, I won't use it again! Resin coated paper is fine. I had never sprayed trim before, and since the tile floor was there I
wanted no accidents. The wood floors were also done in the bedrooms. The plastic was great as long as it was taped really well. However in more than one spot
the plastic blew off the wall, and promptly stuck to the freshly painted molding. Another big negative against it, after you get paint on it, and come back to do more coats,
the old dried paint will flake off the plastic, come flying off and HIT the NEW paint. That really sucked when that happened. None of those problems happened with the paper.
My big concern with the paper was having paint bleed through, but that never happened.

jmbfestool said:
looking good!

Thanks  [smile]

zapdafish said:
wow nice, I wish I had 3500 more sqft in my house so I could do stuff like that, hehe

You can do a lot in small spaces as well!  [big grin] and you save on material costs  [wink]
My wife has a long list for me to work on in our 1200 sq ft apt...
 
Regular plastic sheeting really doesn't have a good surface for paint or overspray to stick to, well.  In the autobody industry, we use etched plastic.  Paint definitely sticks to it and won't flake off into freshly painted areas when high psi air hits it or even when the job is done so cleanup is minimized.

RBL Industries
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Regular plastic sheeting really doesn't have a good surface for paint or overspray to stick to, well.  In the autobody industry, we use etched plastic.  Paint definitely sticks to it and won't flake off into freshly painted areas when high psi air hits it or even when the job is done so cleanup is minimized.

RBL Industries

Thanks Ken, I am going to try it out.
Tim
 
One more paneled wall to show, it was a slow week.
I was waiting to get some new filler before applying the finish, so this is unfinished ply that your looking at.
I ordered wunderfil and timbermate to try out, I'll see which one matches the white oak best.

Next week I'm making some bathroom vanities and beginning the elevator framing.

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Nice! It looks fantastic. Even the workspace looks good. Nice paint work as well.
Thanks for sharing.

-pete
 
I keep looking at your pictures and getting excited.  I'm starting a kitchen next week (hopefully) and will be using rift cut oak. 

I'm hoping to be able to get away with using quarter sawn edge banding.  What kind did you use? 

How flat are those sheets of plywood?  Flat enough for cabinet doors?  It doesn't look like Atlantic has rift cut oak on MDF, but I might see if they can lay up a few panels for me. 

Thanks again for the photos.
 
For the edge banding I used plain sliced white oak, I think it looks fine.
The majority of it is hidden though. The one spot it shows is on the doors and panels of the
floating cabinet I made. You can see more detail in the large pics.

Depending where your located, I know Roberts Plywood in Deer Park Long Island will have MDF core.
Also Manhattan Laminates in NYC. There was some bowing in the veneer core I used, but only on the longer pieces.
The doors I made for the cabinet are flat, smaller pieces I had no problem with. If I can use veneer core I will, I just hate
working with MDF. For doors though I can see the benefit. 

I also used the veneer core to make the parts for a bunch of bath vanity's, they have all stayed nice and flat for the past week.
I used solid 1/2" white oak to edge them with, I don't trust veneer edge banding in bathrooms.

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(I have to trim the doors down an 1/8". The cabinets got bounced to a different location after I made them)

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Pete Pedisich said:
Nice! It looks fantastic. Even the workspace looks good. Nice paint work as well.
Thanks for sharing.

-pete

Thanks Pete, the work space is great, I wish I could afford to have a shop in this location, haha.

Rene89 said:
Nice clean look to all your work, i really like it.

René

Thank You :)
 
I think the proper words to describe your work on this job have not been invented yet.

I cannot fathom the logistical complications of moving materials and equipment in and out of Manhattan.  When I lived in Jersey and worked for HBO in Midtown it was a chore just getting myself in and out.

Neill
 
Thanks Neill, it's been a fun project so far, except for those few weeks this summer when it was like 100 degrees and the loft space was a sauna to work in. All the material is delivered buy the suppliers, there is not much that I had to bring in myself. Just a lot of oak lumber. The biggest challenge is getting the 4x8's into the 7' tall service elevator, that's a pain in the butt.
NY is always a challenge to work in, there are always at least 5 traffic cops patrolling the street in the morning writing tickets  [mad] parking can be a nightmare. I must have spent about $600 on parking so far, and I don't even drive every day.
 
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