Newbie question about Domino for cabinet joints

[Mismarked]

I have a question about butt joints with the Domino 500.
I am building some cabinets for AZ drawers (just tops, bottoms and sides in 18mm ply, with no fixed shelves or cabinet back) and am trying to refresh myself on mortising the pieces.  I have tried to read everything and watch the videos but haven’t had much of a chance to actually practice on the Domino.  Don't want to screw up.
The question is whether it makes any difference in terms of efficiency, strength or accuracy if I follow the manual and supplemental manual instructions for cabinet carcase butt joints versus the instructions for butt box joints.
For butt box joints, they suggest mortising the captive pieces laying flat on the MFT but holding doing the cap pieces held vertically in a vice and using the Base Support Bracket, and in both cases referencing with the fence fully extended and height adjusted.
For cabinet carcase joints, they suggest mortising the tops, bottoms and fixed shelves with everything laying flat on the MFT, with piece on top of the other, and referencing off of the base of the Domino with the fence retracted.
Here, I don’t have any internal fixed shelves, but it still seems easier to do everything laying flat and using a scrap piece of the plywood as a spacer, as opposed to clamping and attaching the Base Support Bracket.  If I understand it correctly, on the captive pieces, the mortise won’t be exactly in the middle of the 18mm thickness, but it seems like everything should line up and I won’t have any issues with fence drift.
Does anyone have advice on which method is better, or whether I am missing anything important.
Thanks.

 

[ear3]

I think it's a matter of preference and comfort.  When I have to do mortises on the flat of the board, I like to have them lying flat on the bench with the end just hanging over and use a vertical plunge with the fence extended and the extra base support.  That extra support is pretty quick to attach.  BTW, and not to load you down with another accessory, but the Domiplate actually makes doing the tops much easier, since the upside down orientation means that you get the support of the whole base during vertical plunges.

 

[roblg3]

I suggest practicing on scraps. I hold the pieces how I want them lined up,draw a line and I use that line as my reference. If the line is in my "crosshairs" then I know I'm plunging into the correct place. It removes mistakes. Mortising into wrong face is impossible that way.

 

[RKA]

I tend slightly tilt the domino during the plunge when the piece is clamped vertically as you described.  My plunges are more accurate when the piece is flat and the fence is flipped up, so I would start there and see how it goes on a few scrap pieces.

 

[pettyconstruction]

Get a domiplate,
The factory fence rides on the material and is fully supported.
Charlie

 

[ear3]

Also, I have a small sign posted above my bench that reads "Have you checked the depth setting?"  There are few things worse than plunging into the tops or bottoms of a carcasse assembly only to realize you forgot to change the depth setting from 20mm.

 

[pettyconstruction]

Also, I have a small sign posted above my bench that reads "Have you checked the depth setting?"  There are few things worse than plunging into the tops or bottoms of a carcasse assembly only to realize you forgot to change the depth setting from 20mm.

funny you say that,cuz I did just that today,the other post I did about loving a domiplate. If you look,you will see the dominos go all the way through,guess why?
To deep,so I set it deeper and went all the way [eek]
Charlie

 

[Mismarked]

Thanks for the advice.  I already put a label on my track saw hand grip that says "Check Depth" (after cutting through the MFT top and frame) so I probably need one on the Domino too.  When I was practicing with the Domino a few months ago, I did get a few unintended through mortises, including a couple that happened when I tried pounding the cap piece with a mallet and the Domino broke through the plywood.

I do have a question about the Domiplate, which sounds like my next purchase.  My plywood is Baltic Birch and is a pretty consistent 17.2mm, measured with calipers.  Does it matter with the Domiplate if the plywood isn't exactly 3/4", or does it work itself out.

 

[ear3]

It works itself out.  There's nothing magical about the mortises being centered -- as long as they are not wildly biased on the top or bottom of the edge, the fit and strength of the joint are just the same.

Thanks for the advice.  I already put a label on my track saw hand grip that says "Check Depth" (after cutting through the MFT top and frame) so I probably need one on the Domino too.  When I was practicing with the Domino a few months ago, I did get a few unintended through mortises, including a couple that happened when I tried pounding the cap piece with a mallet and the Domino broke through the plywood.

I do have a question about the Domiplate, which sounds like my next purchase.  My plywood is Baltic Birch and is a pretty consistent 17.2mm, measured with calipers.  Does it matter with the Domiplate if the plywood isn't exactly 3/4", or does it work itself out.