Oak truss

Have a look at some softwood sarking. Looks great in a vaulted roof. The scots love it! can be left raw but clear  treated.
 
Ask Windmill John, he is your expert on Oak framing.

He uses some special Virgin Belgrande Oak which he can put you on to! [laughing] [laughing] [laughing] [laughing] [laughing]
 
Evening Brett,

Now I am going to be nice. Ok  [smile]

The section, size and layout of the truss will be dictated by the loads applied to it and the design of the roof in general. Truss design is not really about the aesthetics , its more about function. Although you can over engineer, to make it more interesting, but  you have to get the basic structural elements in place or  it will fail. Are the trusses intermediate or gable or both. Each have their own requirements. The best belt and braces truss is the jointed truss with king post and braces from the bottom of the king post to the underside of the purlin seat. You really should get a structural engineer to design and spec the design and section. You may think "not going to bother with the SE" and just up the sizes of the timber section. This can work against you  , because  the weight and mass of the Oak  then becomes a larger factor in the structural load capacity of the truss. (as it has to carry its own increasing weight)

John
 
That did sound nice  [tongue]

A structural engineer has been contacted by the clients already  because they where going to get one made by a company OR get the other joiner to make one cus he said he can make oak trusses (not long after that saying tanalised rafters will look fine with an oak truss).   

so I decided it wont be done right and accepted to take the job on which the client was pleased about! Soo now I want to make sure I do something which isnt just box standard.    Ill see if I can talk 2 the structural engineer to the designs I would like to use to see what he says. 

Its just ONE oak truss in the middle.

Ill do a drawin to how I would like it all to look

JMB

 
Well if its only one, you could concider a  a truss with a tie at  midpoint with a through king post with a  hanging finial. They look pretty. You could use ornate metal work gussets and straps. I am rather fond of stopped chamfer with a simple inverted dart at the end of the chamfer  or just the bevelled stop to the chamfer. Staff bead also looks good. Both of the above mouldings would give you chance to swing some big cutters in the 2200.  [smile]
John
 
Whenever I do an oak garage and the client wants keep the cost down I always sagest softwood feather edge board and paint them with black barn stain also know as architectural black. Il see if I can find you a photo
 
I would love to see a picture of what you guys are talking about. How does only one truss figure in the construction of a roof?
Things seem different over there.
 
Awil66

In this instance the purlns will be seated at either end in masonary gables and the truss will be used as an intermediate support. (I think , if I understand it properly) The cladding is not for the external of the building ,but for the under side of the roof above the rafters but below the lathe and tile or slate ( over boarding).(I think , if I understand it properly) JMB will be along shortly to  sort it out [smile]
 
Ahh. Thank you. Purlins could potentially be very long, at least half the building length if only one truss in the middle? I think building code doesn't alow us to build like that over here in the US northeast. i have never seen new work like this.
So the single truss supports the purlins and the actual roofing material? And an engineer or architect would sign off on that?
Interesting, and obviously since you guys all know about it, it's a tried and true practice over there. Love to see some construction pics.
 
awil66 said:
Ahh. Thank you. Purlins could potentially be very long, at least half the building length if only one truss in the middle? I think building code doesn't alow us to build like that over here in the US northeast. i have never seen new work like this.
So the single truss supports the purlins and the actual roofing material? And an engineer or architect would sign off on that?
Interesting, and obviously since you guys all know about it, it's a tried and true practice over there. Love to see some construction pics.

Not that long its only a garage
 
mattfc said:
Jmb, I presume you have looked at some sites like this to get some ideas like hip ends?
http://www.oakframesdirect.com/acatalog/Four_Bay_Garage_closed_store_left_open_store_right.html

It isn't that kinda building.  

It's brick work gable ends but one end is attached to another large gable end building the back wall is solid brick wall and the front has a brick pillar with two steels running across to create the double garage.  

The building is old and the roof needs replacing.  The client asked me if it was okay to get some other joiners in to just renew the roof.   I said it was fine but then asked the client what are the joiners going to do seen as the building is not having any garage doors on.  They said the joiners said they will get a steel ridge beam and stick new rafters on.

I thought that would look ugly!

I suggested what would be nice  is to knock down the brick pillar and remove the steels then take the roof down and put up a oak post and build a oak truss to sit on the post and oak wall plates and  with curved gallow brackets and braces.

The client thought about it for 2seconds and loved it.  

l
 
Here you go done  a quick sketch up not completed cus takes to long but you get the idea of what im looking for.  

It will have open eaves   so no facia and sofit so the rafters will have a shape on the ends of them not decided what shape yet nothing to fancy really.
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