OF 1010 accessories...what should I get..?
- Thread starter Mac
- Start date
Mac,
It all depends on what you intend to do with your router. I am assuming that you have, or will have, a selection of router bits which you will use for your first projects.
I don't own the 1010, but for my 1400 I have found the guide stop and edge guide to be extremely useful. The corresponding part numbers for the 1010 are 488752 and 489427, respectively. You might also consider the fine adjustment and foot support -- part numbers 488754 and438608. The extension table (#488756) looks like it might be worth it, as well.
Please keep in mind two thoughts, I am speaking from the point of view of a 1400 owner, and more than anything, what you intend to use the router for should dictate router bits and accessories.
Richard
It all depends on what you intend to do with your router. I am assuming that you have, or will have, a selection of router bits which you will use for your first projects.
I don't own the 1010, but for my 1400 I have found the guide stop and edge guide to be extremely useful. The corresponding part numbers for the 1010 are 488752 and 489427, respectively. You might also consider the fine adjustment and foot support -- part numbers 488754 and438608. The extension table (#488756) looks like it might be worth it, as well.
Please keep in mind two thoughts, I am speaking from the point of view of a 1400 owner, and more than anything, what you intend to use the router for should dictate router bits and accessories.
Richard
In issue #186 of Fine Woodworking, Gary Rogowski had an article where he listed the ten essential router bits. As I remember, there was some controversy (as well as a run on woodworking stores) about the choices. Every one had a half inch shank. FWIW, the list included:
1/4 in. straight bit,
1/2 in. straight bit,
3/8 in. spiral-fluted straight bit,
rabbeting bit with four bearings,
1/2 in. dovetail bit,
1/4 in. roundover bit,
3/8 in. radius cove bit
45 degree chamfer bit,
three-wing slot cutter,
1/2 in. flush-trimming bit.
This is certainly overkill, but should start some controversy, which means more knowledgeable souls will weigh in. For starters, I think a couple of straight bits, a roundover, and a flush-trimming bit would make sense. Maybe a rabbeting (I think you call it rebate) bit and chamfer bit would be nice to have. I would also go for 8mm bits, where possible.
So, what do the real experts say?
Richard
1/4 in. straight bit,
1/2 in. straight bit,
3/8 in. spiral-fluted straight bit,
rabbeting bit with four bearings,
1/2 in. dovetail bit,
1/4 in. roundover bit,
3/8 in. radius cove bit
45 degree chamfer bit,
three-wing slot cutter,
1/2 in. flush-trimming bit.
This is certainly overkill, but should start some controversy, which means more knowledgeable souls will weigh in. For starters, I think a couple of straight bits, a roundover, and a flush-trimming bit would make sense. Maybe a rabbeting (I think you call it rebate) bit and chamfer bit would be nice to have. I would also go for 8mm bits, where possible.
So, what do the real experts say?
Richard
dirtydeeds
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- Nov 22, 2007
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there is nowt too wrong with rwd's suggestions, they could be argued like he says
why he and his collegues balance rabbits on the edge of wood....... goodness only knows :
next housings will be call trenches ???
if you arnt looking to spend too much money to start with, ditch the spiral flute, dovetail and 3 wing slot cutter
if things are real tight ditch the rebate bit as well for the moment (because in some cases get away with a straight cutter and guide)
why he and his collegues balance rabbits on the edge of wood....... goodness only knows :
next housings will be call trenches ???
if you arnt looking to spend too much money to start with, ditch the spiral flute, dovetail and 3 wing slot cutter
if things are real tight ditch the rebate bit as well for the moment (because in some cases get away with a straight cutter and guide)
Gary Rogowski's list is pretty good, but I'd hold off on some of them until I see what size I really need. For example, a spiral fluted bit is very good for making mortises -- but most of my mortises are 1/4", not 3/8".
You could hold off on the rabbiting bit for a while -- they're a bit pricey.
I wouldn't buy a dovetail bit right off -- if you get a dovetail jig, you'll need to get whatever size the jig needs.
The most important (IMHO) are several straight bits and a flush trim bit. Next would come some roundover bits -- I use the 1/8" bit the most, and a 1/16" bit when it's more convenient than breaking the edges with a block plane or sandpaper.
Every once in a while, Woodcraft puts some of their bits on sale for $5 each. They're pretty good -- good enough to see if you use a particular bit a lot. In that case, it's worth buying a really good one.
Tom in SE Pennsylvania
You could hold off on the rabbiting bit for a while -- they're a bit pricey.
I wouldn't buy a dovetail bit right off -- if you get a dovetail jig, you'll need to get whatever size the jig needs.
The most important (IMHO) are several straight bits and a flush trim bit. Next would come some roundover bits -- I use the 1/8" bit the most, and a 1/16" bit when it's more convenient than breaking the edges with a block plane or sandpaper.
Every once in a while, Woodcraft puts some of their bits on sale for $5 each. They're pretty good -- good enough to see if you use a particular bit a lot. In that case, it's worth buying a really good one.
Tom in SE Pennsylvania
James Watriss
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- Mar 4, 2008
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- 277
Edge trimming accessories were the unsung heroes from my last built-in job. Used with a (down shear) spiral flush bit, and a small ruler to get the set up right, most of the joints didn't even need to be sanded. Especially with the 1010... it's so light, it really begs to be put to use for this kind of work.
If you get the edge guide, be sure to get the rail guide blocks, too... they make for a great improvised offset base on the other end of the rods. (see my post in how-to.)
If you get the edge guide, be sure to get the rail guide blocks, too... they make for a great improvised offset base on the other end of the rods. (see my post in how-to.)
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