OF 1400 bolt on plywood base?

K

kayaker

Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
3
Hello,

I am trying to bolt on a 3/4 inch plywood base to the router that sticks out about an inch or two on all side of the router. There are two apparently unused threaded holes in the bottom of the baseplate. Anyone know the size for these threads? What is the best way to attach a plywood base to the router. Id like a stronger way than just those 2 holes.

The plywood base is needed so I can C-clamp 2 wood fences to the plywood in order to "sandwich" the router bit so it wont move when going into the edge of a narrow board for mortises.

any help would be great.

Thanks
 
I cannot look at my OF1400 until Christmas but...

I needed to do something like this with my OF2200. There are two ways (perhaps more) of doing this. In the attached photo I show a method that does not require any screws or removal of base plate for the router.

I could not find a picture of my second method. In this I removed the base plate and screwed on a 19mm thick piece of ply using just two spare screw holes in the base of the router. These holes are either M6 or M8 but more likely to be M6. I found that the two screws held my plywood base on well enough for whatever it was I was doing.

Peter
 
kayaker said:
Hello,

I am trying to bolt on a 3/4 inch plywood base to the router that sticks out about an inch or two on all side of the router. There are two apparently unused threaded holes in the bottom of the baseplate. Anyone know the size for these threads? What is the best way to attach a plywood base to the router. Id like a stronger way than just those 2 holes.

The plywood base is needed so I can C-clamp 2 wood fences to the plywood in order to "sandwich" the router bit so it wont move when going into the edge of a narrow board for mortises.

any help would be great.

Thanks
Click to expand...

There is another way if you have the edge guide and the guide rail adaptor for the 1400.  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/festool-of1400-edge-guide-idea/

Peter
 
Peter Parfitt said:
I cannot look at my OF1400 until Christmas but...

I needed to do something like this with my OF2200. There are two ways (perhaps more) of doing this. In the attached photo I show a method that does not require any screws or removal of base plate for the router.

I could not find a picture of my second method. In this I removed the base plate and screwed on a 19mm thick piece of ply using just two spare screw holes in the base of the router. These holes are either M6 or M8 but more likely to be M6. I found that the two screws held my plywood base on well enough for whatever it was I was doing.

Peter
Click to expand...

Peter, how about a picture of the bottom side of the rig that you showed with the OF 2200, please? 

[smile]
 
I am just about to leave the house. I will be back in about 4 hours and will see if I can find it. In the meantime...

It consists of a piece of 8mm ply which has a hole in the centre about the size of the tool area hole on the router (probably about 60mm diameter). I think that I may have implied that it was not screwed to the base - I think it may have been using the two 6mm (I think) spare holes on the router. There are a pair of round supports that grip the side of the router base - made on the bandsaw. The block, through which the guide rails pass is screwed to the plywood. There are a pair of screw inserts in the block for tightening to the rails.

Must go.

Peter
 
Hi. Did much the same thing you are trying when I made a circle jig for my 1400. The bolts are 6mmx1.0 which I found at the HD (orange store)....
I recessed the heads of the bolts on the bottom of the jig and used washers. I cut about 18 circles with this jig and I found no need for any other fasteners. The heads of the bolts combined with the washers allow you to really snug up your jig without the worry of stripping threads.

Greg
 
I am sorry it took so long but I had to hunt for the bases after getting back. The photos are attached. The one that I had shown before does not have any screws into the base of the router. The thick plywood one does.

Peter

The block for the fence rails has been removed from the red one as I used the block on another jig which seems to be missing at the moment.
 
I used the red jig to make the very accurate hole in the maple for the clock shown in the picture. It had to be within 0.1 mm. I used a small brass pin as my pivot point. I cut the (very accurate) hole first leaving some stock so that the cutout was still attached to the rest of the block - without doing this the loose centre would have caused an issue not least because it was supporting the pivot pin. After the accurate router work I turned my piece of maple over and routed out the back, This time to within 1 mm so quite easy.

All of the router work was done with the OF2200 - the clock is only a few inches high and the routed hole is about 41 mm diameter.

Peter
 
wow. So much information on this forum.

So far, I think the best option might be to get 2 of the parallel edge guides:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/an-alternative-to-the-plexiglas-template-routing-aid/

I cant find them on the festool website but it looks like other online sellers have them... I cant believe the plexiglass routing aid is $289?!?!?!?!??! is that insane?

heres a short clip about both the plexiglass and the parallel edge guides in the blog:

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2010/09/15/The-Plexiglase284a2-Routing-Aid-Mortises-Made-Easy.aspx

 
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