OF 1400 on guide rails

madera

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
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36
Just picked up a 1400. I need it for a project to plow some dados in the middle of a vanity top. My question is about lining it up. Unlike with the ts you obviously can't line up the cut based on the splinter guard. I realize that there is a center mark on the router that could be used. Is there a simple way to get everything aligned?  Any tricks?

Thanks
 
I have used the parallel guide set with the guide stop to repeat dadoes for cabinets.  Or you can use the MFT/3 with the guide stop and set the MFT stop for repeat dadoes.  Thats what I have done.
 
madera said:
Just picked up a 1400. I need it for a project to plow some dados in the middle of a vanity top. My question is about lining it up. Unlike with the ts you obviously can't line up the cut based on the splinter guard. I realize that there is a center mark on the router that could be used. Is there a simple way to get everything aligned?  Any tricks?

Thanks

Yes, there is, use the center marks. [tongue] Really, I don't that it gets much simpler than that.
 
Hi,

I have had good results using two lines- one marking the center of the dado or whatever you are routing, and one parallel to the edge you are routing along (as well as the center line) placed about 2" or so from the center line.

Place the guide rail anti-splinter strip edge along the parallel line. Put the router on, then just fine tune the router onto the center line using the marks on the base. Make sure you are looking straight down when you align the router over the mark.

This works well and is quite fast to layout.

You can also place start and stop marks for stopped routes, and use the center marks on the sides of the router base. When doing this just remember to add or subtract the radius of the bit to the stopped route length.

Seth
 
I lock the plunge when I'm using the guide.  I rarely lock it any other time.  I get better results not having to worry about plunging and tracking.

The hose is a problem when not using a boom.  The ridges catch and make things uncomfortable.  I loop it over an arm or even over my shoulder.

Here's something interesting to note.  I've found that I can cut sheet goods with my 1400 on the guide using a good spiral bit.  Sort of like a CNC.  It makes a beautiful edge on melamine.  Set it up so the edge of the bit is a set distance from the edge of the rubber strip.
 
The rail hose deflector is definitely a good thing to have for rail routing. I've also found the hose in the MrNozzle kit is much easier to manage than the Festool one. It's much more supple and easier to control. The Festool hose is still very stiff and unwieldy in use so the change was very welcome.
 
One thing i became aware of when using my OF 1400 on guide rails is when you want to be very accurate in plunge depth - be aware that there is a bit of spongeyness in the rubber strips on the guide rail. I was using the clamps in the guide rail and noticed the more you tighten the rail down the deeper the cut the router gave, also a different depth at each end where the clamps are squashing the strips down, and shallower through the centre of the rail.

I got around it by just using the edge of the guide rail, running the router base on the face of the work piece and router base hard up against the edge of the rail. It gives a dead straight routered groove/cut.
 
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