OF 1400 - Which base for leveling with the guide rail?

[Rutabagared]

I want to use the guide stop attached to the guide rail, but don't want any part of the base to ride on the rail.  I also can't use the support foot.  I'm going to run a large edge forming bit (Whiteside 1480) with no guide bearing, using the guide rail parallel along the edge.  I need to compensate for the thickness of the rail with an accessory base.  I know that the accessory base with the small diameter opening (492574) placed over the stock base will level the router with the guide rail, but I would rather purchase the table widener instead (493233).  Will the thickness of the table widener bring the router level with the guide rail?

 

[rvieceli]

[member=3075]sawdustinmyshoes[/member]

If you have the room on the piece try flipping the guide rail so the back edge is facing the edge where you want the profile. Use the guide on the rail but instead of having the router ride partially on the rail, have router base completely on the workpiece. No need to level the router out. Basically you are hanging the router off the back edge of the guide rail.

Ron

 

[Rutabagared]

Thanks, Ron.  I wasn't aware it could be used that way. I was thinking of using the base for another job. Would thickness of the table widener level the router with the guide rail when using the standard configuration?

 

[blues]

I recall having the same issue. I measured the thickness of the base and cut a small piece using my track saw and used double side tape to glue it to the existing base so the router is supported at the correct height.  It's a temporary solution. I saved that piece incase i had to use the same technique later. 
Ron's suggestion should also work. Try it.

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

Ron—that’s really thinking “off the rails”!

 

[Josh2]

I think the table widener base is the right thickness for the rail. At least that is what I remember from half inch shy video's of the OF 1400. Just look for "half inch shy of 1400" on youtube and you will find part 1 and 2. He talks about the table widener. I pretty much agree though that the table widener is not very useful. For additional support just I simply use the rods with one guide stops. Very stable and much more flexible. Changing to the table widener also takes some time and with the table widener the router does not fit in the systainer. Having said that, I think it does work for your application with the rail. But check the videos.

 

[Josh2]

One more thing: I would use the edge guide for your application, not the guide rail.

 

[Rutabagared]

Thank you for all your suggestions, including the mention of Paul's video.  I'm reluctant to use the edge guide because I'm not confident I can keep it stable for this operation.  I'm leaning toward the table widener, or simply allowing the edge profile to remain square.  After assembling the base and setting the top in place.  I think that square suits it more than oval.  Though I'm open to suggestions.

 

[Rick Herrick]

[member=3075]sawdustinmyshoes[/member]

If you have the room on the piece try flipping the guide rail so the back edge is facing the edge where you want the profile. Use the guide on the rail but instead of having the router ride partially on the rail, have router base completely on the workpiece. No need to level the router out. Basically you are hanging the router off the back edge of the guide rail.

Ron

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member] Hi Ron.  I have been watching FT router videos lately.  I wanted to ask about this suggestion.  It looks like, with the Guide Stop, 492601, can be used by attaching to one rail on the guide rail but both sections can be mounted to the rail, making it more stable.  Is this what you mean? 

 

[rvieceli]

[member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member]  here’s some photos to illustrate. This is a Festool OF2000 so the guide rail mount a little different but the principle still is valid.

Here’s the official way

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[attachimg=2]

The foot has to be used to keep the base level.

Why not do it this way and have the entire router base flat on the workpiece?

[attachimg=3]

Ron

 

[Rick Herrick]

I have not seen that guide stop.  The one I was referring too is here but I also wasn't thinking OF 2200.

 

[PaulMarcel]

A bit late on this thread, but to answer the question about using an edge guide (or even a bearing-guided bit), you want to use a guide stop far from the router for a lot of control and stability.

 

[hdv]

Is this the information you are looking for?

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Rutabagared]

hdv, Paul, Rick, Josh2, rviecel, Blues,
Thank you for your replies and taking the time to provide examples/photos.  It's much appreciated.  I may use a combo guide stop/edge guide with the table widener (maybe I'll get a prize for using the most Festool router accessories in executing an operation).  I'm still on the fence about which edge profile to use at this point, however.

Paul,
Good to hear from you.  Watching your great videos brought back memories from much earlier days when we frequented the forum.

 

[fshanno]

I use the guide stops in the conventional setup with the 1400 on the guide for straight lining and edge jointing. 

I line up the guide close to the edge of the board I'm straight lining to get as much of the router base on the guide as possible.  I use a long straight bit and don't take off very much with each pass.  I've handled 8/4 hardwood this way with no problem at all and I get good square edge.  I clamp the guide and leave it alone.  I then make as many passes adjusting router position as necessary to get my edge. 

For extra stability and increased precision you can set it up with the stops both riding on a channel. You don't get the flexibility of being able to use the micro adjust on the guide stop this way but it's not a big problem. 

And there's no need for fiddling with the router base.  Dust collection is not good but I go ahead and use the shroud thing to keep dust for flying up on me.

There is one thing.  I don't use the router unless I have to for straight lining.  When the board is thin enough, 6/4 and under, I use my TS55. 

I hardly ever ask the lumber yard to straight line even if I have them thickness for me.  Doing it yourself is less wasteful the than even the best laser rip saws.  Plus I have the ability to break down the boards before straight lining to get the good edge just where I want it in relation to grain.

 

[jzhu]

Take a look at the ultimate router base, great for routing edge profile using the router bit that does not have the bearing.
https://imaginewoodworking.com/pages/ultimaterouterbase

James

 

[Rutabagared]

Thanks for the link.  I remember seeing that a while ago and forgot about it.  I'll definitely consider it.

 

[Rutabagared]

After all the hullabaloo I went with a boat-shaped top with a square edge.  Thanks for all your feedback.  It won't go to waste. I have a coffee table project in the que and plan on going with the oval profile.  Apologies for the bad photos.

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