OF 2000+ Unlift = Possible?
- Thread starter micklen
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Michael Kellough
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What is an Unlift?
mouppe
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mouppe
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I am strongly in favour of having a dedicated router for use in the table (I use a PC) and leaving the OF1400 for hand-held use. Before I got the Festool router I was always moving the PC to the router table and back, and this was not good for the screw holes in the router base as well as being a PITA.
So I would suggest buying a separate router for use in the table.
Richard.
So I would suggest buying a separate router for use in the table.
Richard.
Well, if you're looking for an excuse to get a 1400 or 1010 then by all means, proceed. "Dang it! The router is on the lift! I gotta get me another router."
If the 2000 is sitting there collecting dust, a total waste, well then, you've got a point.
Otherwise.....
You are only saving the cost of the motor. You still have the top, the fence, the lift, the table, the casters, the on/of switch with the big red safety flap, and any bits that are for table use exclusively. A single nice set for cabinet doors will cost as much as a motor. Plus whatever time it takes to put it all together. And making the the 2000 work will take more time.
$70 extra for above the table bit changes? And I just don't know if I'd trust that little gizmo with my hands. An insert for 1/4" bits? Hum. It's possible for spiral bits to climb and punch right through the piece. And sometimes I push a little too hard on the workpiece. That extension sure puts the business end of the bit a long way from the bearings.
Power. Nothing wrong with the 2000 but I'd go for as much power as I could get. Check out this cool Milwaukee/JessEm rig on Amazon. 3 1/2 horses and speed adjustment outside the router body. Sweet.
Dust collection. To get good dust collection you need suction above and below the table. For me that means an enclosed box with a 4" dust port and a port on the fence with a hose that goes down to the box. For me a small vac like a CT is out or the question.
My router table is a workhorse. I've had the motor running continuously for 10 to 15 min at a time running profiles on moldings and doors and drawer faces, cope and stick bits and slots for door panels and drawer bottoms. I wouldn't want to subject a precision tool like the OF2000 to that. One time I forgot to turn on the dust collector and the whole unit, router motor, lift, plate, were all too hot to touch when I was done.
There are so many interesting lifts to choose from. One very intriguing model is the Quick Lift, also from Woodpecker. I've been looking at that one myself. The only reason you're looking at the Unilift is because it may support your plunge router. You'd never give it a second glance otherwise.
And to top it off, it's a bit insulting that Woodpecker didn't include a bolt pattern for Festool.
If the 2000 is sitting there collecting dust, a total waste, well then, you've got a point.
Otherwise.....
You are only saving the cost of the motor. You still have the top, the fence, the lift, the table, the casters, the on/of switch with the big red safety flap, and any bits that are for table use exclusively. A single nice set for cabinet doors will cost as much as a motor. Plus whatever time it takes to put it all together. And making the the 2000 work will take more time.
$70 extra for above the table bit changes? And I just don't know if I'd trust that little gizmo with my hands. An insert for 1/4" bits? Hum. It's possible for spiral bits to climb and punch right through the piece. And sometimes I push a little too hard on the workpiece. That extension sure puts the business end of the bit a long way from the bearings.
Power. Nothing wrong with the 2000 but I'd go for as much power as I could get. Check out this cool Milwaukee/JessEm rig on Amazon. 3 1/2 horses and speed adjustment outside the router body. Sweet.
Dust collection. To get good dust collection you need suction above and below the table. For me that means an enclosed box with a 4" dust port and a port on the fence with a hose that goes down to the box. For me a small vac like a CT is out or the question.
My router table is a workhorse. I've had the motor running continuously for 10 to 15 min at a time running profiles on moldings and doors and drawer faces, cope and stick bits and slots for door panels and drawer bottoms. I wouldn't want to subject a precision tool like the OF2000 to that. One time I forgot to turn on the dust collector and the whole unit, router motor, lift, plate, were all too hot to touch when I was done.
There are so many interesting lifts to choose from. One very intriguing model is the Quick Lift, also from Woodpecker. I've been looking at that one myself. The only reason you're looking at the Unilift is because it may support your plunge router. You'd never give it a second glance otherwise.
And to top it off, it's a bit insulting that Woodpecker didn't include a bolt pattern for Festool.
hi,
My problem is that first bought the Jessem R lift to my ELU mof96 router.
But it came to my conclusion that I needed a 1/2" collet, so I could use bigger bits.
So I bought a Unilift so I could fit my OF 2000 into the router table.
But now I'm just confused. [blink]
Maybe I should go for a new router too?
This router table will be really expensive then.
So far have I put a lot of money for the parts for this project and have not routed anything yet ..... [eek]
It's a hard work to get the ultimate router table!
//Carl
My problem is that first bought the Jessem R lift to my ELU mof96 router.
But it came to my conclusion that I needed a 1/2" collet, so I could use bigger bits.
So I bought a Unilift so I could fit my OF 2000 into the router table.
But now I'm just confused. [blink]
Maybe I should go for a new router too?
This router table will be really expensive then.
So far have I put a lot of money for the parts for this project and have not routed anything yet ..... [eek]
It's a hard work to get the ultimate router table!
//Carl
I see what you mean. But you said all feedback was welcome. I guess the phrase "in for a penny, in for a pound" is operative here.
I suppose you haven't heard the buzz about the digital motorized lift that's coming from MCLS. Here and here. I'm sorry, I couldn't resist. It's called FUD (Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt). You know, the thing invented by IBM and perfected by Microsoft? First cousin to NAINA?
I'm not helping am I.
I've attached my version of a motorized lift.
I suppose you haven't heard the buzz about the digital motorized lift that's coming from MCLS. Here and here. I'm sorry, I couldn't resist. It's called FUD (Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt). You know, the thing invented by IBM and perfected by Microsoft? First cousin to NAINA?
I'm not helping am I.
I've attached my version of a motorized lift.
mouppe
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I think given the quality of your tools and your wish to get the "ultimate router table," you need to go the full distance and buy a dedicated router for the table. The PC 7518 is the one I would go for. Putting the OF2200 in the table is like putting a square peg in a round hole.
With this router you will have the perfect table set-up and a great plunge router, and you will not have to move them around. I have an OF1400 and a PC 895 which sits in a small router table, and I really enjoy working with both.
Richard.
With this router you will have the perfect table set-up and a great plunge router, and you will not have to move them around. I have an OF1400 and a PC 895 which sits in a small router table, and I really enjoy working with both.
Richard.
Thanks guys for your inputs.
It's really great to share your mind puzzle with someone.
Regarding the PC, I live in Sweden, Europe and here over is not Porte-Cable available what I know.
I think I will go for a cheap "made in china" router, seams to be a copy of the OF 2000!
http://www.clasohlson.se/link/m3/Product,Product.aspx?artnr=30-9157
BTW
THe MLCS router lift seams to be awesome! But I think it would do an even bigger hole in my pockets!
It's really great to share your mind puzzle with someone.
Regarding the PC, I live in Sweden, Europe and here over is not Porte-Cable available what I know.
I think I will go for a cheap "made in china" router, seams to be a copy of the OF 2000!
http://www.clasohlson.se/link/m3/Product,Product.aspx?artnr=30-9157
BTW
THe MLCS router lift seams to be awesome! But I think it would do an even bigger hole in my pockets!
Michael Kellough
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- Jan 23, 2007
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- 7,100
Plunge routers are great because they allow you to quickly change the depth. Part of why that is possible is the play between the bushings and the posts the motor unit slides on. Some routers lock squarely to the posts (usually to only one post) and some do not. The result can be slightly of axis cuts. Usually not a problem.
When using a router table where you can look closely at how things are set up and can make very fine adjustments our expectations of accuracy increases and even a Festool router may be disappointing in that application. That is one reason not to use the 1400 with the Unilift but it may not be a problem in your case. Only one way to find out. The cheap Chinese knock-off router will almost surely be disappointing.
If you belong to the picky camp and expect the cutter shaft to be absolutely perpendicular to the base/table surface then you need a non-plunge router installed in a heavy duty router lift. If PC routers aren't available the large 15 amp Milwaukee motor is also very good.
But, you have all the parts you need now so put them together and let us know how it works out.
When using a router table where you can look closely at how things are set up and can make very fine adjustments our expectations of accuracy increases and even a Festool router may be disappointing in that application. That is one reason not to use the 1400 with the Unilift but it may not be a problem in your case. Only one way to find out. The cheap Chinese knock-off router will almost surely be disappointing.
If you belong to the picky camp and expect the cutter shaft to be absolutely perpendicular to the base/table surface then you need a non-plunge router installed in a heavy duty router lift. If PC routers aren't available the large 15 amp Milwaukee motor is also very good.
But, you have all the parts you need now so put them together and let us know how it works out.
GPowers
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micklen said:
Before you buy a dedicated router for your table lift make sure the lift has the correct mounting hardware for your new router. Thats what is nice about the Woodpecker lifts, most of them are made for the PC 7518. Plus several places sell just the PC 7518 motor ONLY, so you same a little.
The OP want to use his OF2000, not a 2200 or a 1400. I have one as well that gets used very little so I am interested in this application in a table. I am not really sure why because I already have two RTs. [embarassed] Since one of my tables has the big PC variable speed (7518?) I think I can comment on the relative merits of subjecting the 2000 to the same type of usage. I see no reason to not use it in a table if you have it and would like to do so. It is a very robust tool with superb bearings and a lot of power. One poster says it is a waste to use a 'precision' router in the table because it will be subjected to more punishment. Another implies a plunge router may not give the precision desired. ???
My perception is that a big router is subject to more 'potential' abuse in a handheld application as operator error is more like to result in a cutter grab or some other unintended jolt to the tool and spindle. The table helps us control these things, which is one of the reasons we have them in the first place. They also help us be more precise in locating and presenting our work to the cutter, so a 'precise' spindle shouldn't be a bad thing. Michael is right about some plungers having play in the rods that might not be a good thing in a table. I have an Hitachi M12V that exhibits that problem but it is somewhat mitigated by the above mentioned advantages of a table. I have no doubt the plunge mechanism on the OF2000 is significantly better than the Hitachi since I have used both routers. Having said that, my big PC mounted in a Woodpecker PRL is a better total system than the Hitachi and would probably be better than an OF2000 in a Unilift, not because the 2000 is a lessor router but because the total system is not as elegant. OTOH, there is not doubt that the 2000 in a Unilift would be better than the Hitachi on a plate. I am sure many miles of stock have been pushed by others past the exact same Hitachi set-up I have, some of whom will swear it is the best RT set-up ever devised. The OP has what he needs to do this, I say go for it. I'll bet he likes it.
I do share reservations regarding the use of Extensions. They are more convenient but at a cost.
My perception is that a big router is subject to more 'potential' abuse in a handheld application as operator error is more like to result in a cutter grab or some other unintended jolt to the tool and spindle. The table helps us control these things, which is one of the reasons we have them in the first place. They also help us be more precise in locating and presenting our work to the cutter, so a 'precise' spindle shouldn't be a bad thing. Michael is right about some plungers having play in the rods that might not be a good thing in a table. I have an Hitachi M12V that exhibits that problem but it is somewhat mitigated by the above mentioned advantages of a table. I have no doubt the plunge mechanism on the OF2000 is significantly better than the Hitachi since I have used both routers. Having said that, my big PC mounted in a Woodpecker PRL is a better total system than the Hitachi and would probably be better than an OF2000 in a Unilift, not because the 2000 is a lessor router but because the total system is not as elegant. OTOH, there is not doubt that the 2000 in a Unilift would be better than the Hitachi on a plate. I am sure many miles of stock have been pushed by others past the exact same Hitachi set-up I have, some of whom will swear it is the best RT set-up ever devised. The OP has what he needs to do this, I say go for it. I'll bet he likes it.
I do share reservations regarding the use of Extensions. They are more convenient but at a cost.
Again would I like to thanks for all ideas and inputs
It seams that it possible to convert PC routers to 240V
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/portercable/22-7519-60_TYPE_1
Anyone that have tried this?
How hard could it be? [unsure]
BTW don't we have any aussies in the forum?
Do they sell PC "down under"? What I know they also have 240 on that continent [big grin]
The Idea to use an non-plunge router is appealing. I think it would be more rigid and accurate. [wink]
//Carl
It seams that it possible to convert PC routers to 240V
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/portercable/22-7519-60_TYPE_1
Anyone that have tried this?
How hard could it be? [unsure]
BTW don't we have any aussies in the forum?
Do they sell PC "down under"? What I know they also have 240 on that continent [big grin]
The Idea to use an non-plunge router is appealing. I think it would be more rigid and accurate. [wink]
//Carl
I've read about using 120 V tools with a 240 V converter in a German forum once, but couldn't get a clear understanding if it's really working.It ended in a very long discussion about the secrets of the electric current!
Friends of mine have used US appliances in the UK and Germany, but the current transformer seems to be quite expensive and for attaching a strong 3 hp router, the transformer probably needs even more capacity.
If anyone has experience with this I would also like to hear about it since I am still looking for a lift solution other than the expensive CMS module.
Friends of mine have used US appliances in the UK and Germany, but the current transformer seems to be quite expensive and for attaching a strong 3 hp router, the transformer probably needs even more capacity.
If anyone has experience with this I would also like to hear about it since I am still looking for a lift solution other than the expensive CMS module.
