OF1010 doesn't lie flat when using rail?

[Jon3]

I used my OF1010 to route a dado in the middle of a big piece that wouldn't fit on my TS.  I noticed when using the guide rail attachment that comes with it that the OF1010 does not sit perfectly flat on the work surface.  It seems like the rail attachment thinks the base of the router is thicker than it is. 

Or am I confused?

 

[Frank-Jan]

I haven't used my of1010 together with the guiderail yet, but I think I saw in the manual that part of the sole-plate should ride on the guiderail, and the black thingy (I think it's called an outrigger) on the side adjusted so the soleplate is parallel to the workpiece.

edit: The text in this pdf is in Dutch, but the pictures speak for itselves:http://www.festool.nl/images/Toepassingen/211_NL.pdf

 

[Fred West]

Jon3, I do not have the OF1010 but I do have the OF1400 and when used on the rail Frank-Jan is correct you do need to attache the Outrigger in order to bring the router flat to your workpiece. Fred

 

[Brad Evans]

Are you using the optional FE-FS fine-adjuster with the guide stop??

I've found that it interferes with the guide rail and tilts my OF1000 up at an angle.

 

[rblaustein]

No, you're correct.  At least that's the case with the 1400, as Fred pointed out, and I would guess the 1010 has the same issue.  The problem has been discussed a few times and is dealt with by either using the outrigger that should have come with the guide rail adapter, or by making an auxilliary base, as was done by Dave here:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=34.0

I had another problem related to this issue and also made an auxilliary base, inspired by Dave's:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1994.0

Use of the guide rail adapter is discussed in Rick Christopherson's excellent manual for the 1400 which can be downloaded at several sites (including Festool, I think).

I much prefer the extra base approach for dadoes--makes it more idiot-proof which is good for someone of my skill level.

 

[Jon3]

I think the outrigger might make it a bit tippy.

I plan to make a new round base (or at least, as round as I can make it) anyway, so I'll see about adding some extra thickness to it.

 

[poto]

I've used the OF1010 for a great deal of tricky routing. When using the guide rail I usually arrange it so that the router base is partially on the rail, and then set the outrigger. I think you'll find it's very stable with the outrigger - I've certainly never had a problem. You do have to be careful to level the router before tightening the outrigger - otherwise your dado bottoms will be angled... Sometimes I'll clamp a scrap piece beside the piece I'm routing to support the outrigger as I move the router along the guide rail. This works when routing tenons and rabbets, etc.

 

[chughes]

  I agree with Poto, the 1010 is very stable with its outrigger.  The outrigger sets opposite the rail/base so when it is deployed, the entire footprint is a triangle.  The outrigger also is justified center, in line with the bit.  In their wisdom Festool widened the bottom of the outrigger so when the bit exits the end of the material the router is still supported.( don't travel two far or the outrigger could dive and engage the rubber on your rail ( I found this out the hardway))  good luck, have fun its a great system!!   

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I've used my 1400 router on the guide rail with the Festool guide stop and outrigger and had no problems with it being tippy.  Part of the base of the router rides on the rail.  Use of the outrigger is necessary to keep the router base level and to prevent tipping.

Dave R.

 

[Jerry Work]

My experience is the outrigger will stabilize the 1010 and 1400 very well and keep the base plate parallel with the guide rail whether the standard stop or the fine adjuster are employed.  Just keep downward pressure on the stop as you slide it down the rail.  Where it can be an issue is when the work piece is not flat over the plane covered by the outrigger (think rail, stile and panel with the outrigger hanging over the panel for some part of its travel).  In such cases a thin strip is handy to provide a level path for the outrigger.  The new version of the 2000 router has quick change base plates, one of which has a stepped base with the outside portion 5mm thicker than the inside portion of the base.  That does the same thing but is wider than the outrigger so can be a bit more stable in some circumstances.  Quick change base plates are a very nice feature that would be nice to see migrated to future versions of the 1010 and 1400 as well.  Hope this helps.

Jerry