Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 5,067
I guess it's the "overboard" thinking in me, but I really don't see the problem of owning both OF1400 and OF1010 to get the features discussed? I never really expect any tool to be everything to me, even if it is capable of it. Case in point, my recent post about the MFK700. The more versatile or adjustable something is, the more tinkering/adjusting you have to do to work with it. Case in point #2, ShopSmith machines. They can do pretty much everything, but they are a huge pain at the same time. If you are in a tiny shop and don't care at all about time? maybe, But that is not me at all.
Do you really need the more powerful/bigger unit to have the more precise bushing connection?
I have used my OF1400 to cut the deeper pockets of some fairly big SOSS hinges and it has not been an issue at all. The dust collection is so much better than they way I did it before, which was the Dewalt with the extraction through one of the plunge mechanism pillars.
If I wanted to do some smaller inlay type work, I probably would use the OF1010, because it is more solid, adjustable and lighter. I don't really like messing with the screws on the base plate, so I avoid it if I can. The snap-style of the OF1400 is so much simpler that you will actually use it, especially with the chip collection cup. I rarely use it with the OF1010, just for that reason. Why oh why do they use flat-blade screws for the bushings? Although I am not a fan of Torx screws either, they are better than flat.
I like the idea of the new round dust port. The oval ones on the OF1010 and RAS115 are more difficult than they need to be.
The light thing doesn't really concern me. I mostly use mine with the dust port that surrounds the bit. With that in place, you have absolutely no way of viewing the bit at all, so a light would do nothing.
I do very little where I care to see the bit at all.
I like the 8mm option, I just wish it had better support in the US. It's possible, but certainly not simple or ordinary. IMHO, metric is just better anyway. I would rather that Festool not bother to change things. It just adds to the confusion of mixing the measurements. The DF500 is still 100% metric. I really don't see them producing cutters/tennons to go along with converting all of the setting scales. So why switch it on the other machines?
The OF1400 comes with 3 collets here 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2", so I would have thought that you got 6mm, 8mm, and 12mm?
Adapters are available here, but they are definitely not the standard. I have a couple that adapt 3/8" to 1/2" and 1/8" to 1/4", but they are more of the emergency/un-expected type uses.
I wasn't aware of those brands offering more. I'll have to look into that, since I have used Whiteside and Amana for years. The CNC thing may be driving it, but don't limit it to the table-top units. The Big 5' x12' production machines we use do a lot of their cutting with 3/8" compression bit. These are solid carbide though, not steel shank. The smaller cuts, like back dados or shelf pin holes are 1/4" and the big ones, like spoil board planers are 1/2".
I have been confused by this for years. It always seemed like this would happen in the US, if we ever made the switch. This is what makes conversion so hard. Comparing one's understanding rather than just thinking directly in the new measurements makes it more "thinking" than just knowing.
We have an odd similarity here though. For some reason, un-known to me, architects do their drawings in a combination of feet and inches, yet all of our shop drawings are converted to be in inches only. To them 14" would be 1' 2", which seems silly to me? We all know that you would say 1400mm, or 1.4m not 1m 400mm, the mix seems odd.
Don't you buy fuel by the liter though? I did know the MPG thing, but mostly from Top Gear on TV.
Also, isn't what you guys call a pint different than us too? Here a pint is 16 fluid ounces and I have heard that your pint is more like 20 ounces the way we measure it?
Do you really need the more powerful/bigger unit to have the more precise bushing connection?
I have used my OF1400 to cut the deeper pockets of some fairly big SOSS hinges and it has not been an issue at all. The dust collection is so much better than they way I did it before, which was the Dewalt with the extraction through one of the plunge mechanism pillars.
If I wanted to do some smaller inlay type work, I probably would use the OF1010, because it is more solid, adjustable and lighter. I don't really like messing with the screws on the base plate, so I avoid it if I can. The snap-style of the OF1400 is so much simpler that you will actually use it, especially with the chip collection cup. I rarely use it with the OF1010, just for that reason. Why oh why do they use flat-blade screws for the bushings? Although I am not a fan of Torx screws either, they are better than flat.
I like the idea of the new round dust port. The oval ones on the OF1010 and RAS115 are more difficult than they need to be.
The light thing doesn't really concern me. I mostly use mine with the dust port that surrounds the bit. With that in place, you have absolutely no way of viewing the bit at all, so a light would do nothing.
I do very little where I care to see the bit at all.
I like the 8mm option, I just wish it had better support in the US. It's possible, but certainly not simple or ordinary. IMHO, metric is just better anyway. I would rather that Festool not bother to change things. It just adds to the confusion of mixing the measurements. The DF500 is still 100% metric. I really don't see them producing cutters/tennons to go along with converting all of the setting scales. So why switch it on the other machines?
I didn't realize that was the way over there? In the US an OF1010 comes with 1/4" and 8mm collets, so I assumed you got 6mm and 8mm with yours?Coen said:Isn't 1/2" and 1/4" just a US thing? It's all 6, 8 or 12mm here. Dunno who actually uses the 6mm without adapter to 8mm, but ok.
The OF1400 comes with 3 collets here 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2", so I would have thought that you got 6mm, 8mm, and 12mm?
Adapters are available here, but they are definitely not the standard. I have a couple that adapt 3/8" to 1/2" and 1/8" to 1/4", but they are more of the emergency/un-expected type uses.
They may have been around, but there wasn't any demand or supply for them.Cheese said:Milwaukee has always offered 3/8" collets as an option for their routers, that goes back at least 25+ years. It was always looked upon as an oddball item but I've noticed that recently Whiteside, Vortex & Amana are now offering a larger selection of 3/8" router bits. I don't know the reasoning behind it, it could be because of the proliferation of small CNC table top routers?
I wasn't aware of those brands offering more. I'll have to look into that, since I have used Whiteside and Amana for years. The CNC thing may be driving it, but don't limit it to the table-top units. The Big 5' x12' production machines we use do a lot of their cutting with 3/8" compression bit. These are solid carbide though, not steel shank. The smaller cuts, like back dados or shelf pin holes are 1/4" and the big ones, like spoil board planers are 1/2".
woodbutcherbower said:Even though the UK has been fully metric for decades, we still buy router bits which have 1/4” or 1/2” shanks - the manufacturers refer to them as 6.35mm or 12.7mm. We also buy 12.7mm drill bits, we still measure fuel economy in miles per gallon, we buy pints of beer, and weigh ourselves using stones and pounds....
I have been confused by this for years. It always seemed like this would happen in the US, if we ever made the switch. This is what makes conversion so hard. Comparing one's understanding rather than just thinking directly in the new measurements makes it more "thinking" than just knowing.
We have an odd similarity here though. For some reason, un-known to me, architects do their drawings in a combination of feet and inches, yet all of our shop drawings are converted to be in inches only. To them 14" would be 1' 2", which seems silly to me? We all know that you would say 1400mm, or 1.4m not 1m 400mm, the mix seems odd.
Don't you buy fuel by the liter though? I did know the MPG thing, but mostly from Top Gear on TV.
Also, isn't what you guys call a pint different than us too? Here a pint is 16 fluid ounces and I have heard that your pint is more like 20 ounces the way we measure it?