OF1010 sliding dovetail accessory for the EU

[Mark]

Spied this accessory for making sliding dovetails using some OF1010 router base not available in the US. Matthew... do we have a wishlist poll somewhere for this group to get stuff like this over here?

This picture was found on this site Kurswerkstatthttp://www.kurswerkstatt.de/heimwerken-ratgeber/werkzeug-artikel_1065.htm

 

[skipclemmons]

Pretty energetic of you to find this stuff.  I wonder how well it would really work on plywood.  How hard and how much to "add to cart" and "buy it now"?  My college German is rusty by now. 

 

[Overtime]

That is slick... If it is stable with those shallow guides. I'm wondering how much time is spent on set up - the plate assembly on and off the router ? OK I see it  , they use the two rods , quick and eazy.  I like it. Festool has no limit for "on the site job" accessories. But if you have a router table then this may not be very practical. And speaking of Router "tables", I wonder how long before they get into that arena ? Like a dedicated set up including the router, To give Jessem and Jointech some compitition. That would be one giant step towards stationary machines.  

 

[MarkusS]

I believe that this "accessory" is already available in the US  ;D

This is nothing else than a second "Side stop, edge guide, SA-OF1010" http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=489427&ID=4 mounted to the router. One of them comes as a standard with the OF-1010 and another one would cost around 28 Bucks. One side stop guides the router on the left side of the wood and the other side stop guides the router on the other side of the wood - so the router is guided between two side stops.

If needed, I can make some photos from this setup, I have all the needed stuff in my shop.

Regards
Mark

 

[Matthew Schenker]

do we have a wishlist poll somewhere for this group to get stuff like this over here?

That's a great idea!  I've created a "wish list" discussion in the "Festool Connections" area.  We'll use that for members to openly ponder new things, improvements to existing things, or any other wishes.

Thanks for the idea Mark!!

Matthew

 

[Dan Lyke]

I  like Mark's suggestion that this is just a second edge guide, but you might also be able to do this from other parts you have lying around.

I just got my MFS, but it also looks like something you might be able to put together with the MFS, although you might need an extra set of the angle brackets) or with the "Routing Aid" (which I was actually going to scrape together some acrylic scraps and try to build a version of).

 

[Dave Ronyak]

A second edge guide can be easily made from a scrap of straight wood.  Simply bore a couple of holes to match the router's guide rods.  Then rip the board on a line centered through those holes.  Stack the ripped parts and bore a hole on the edge midway between the guide rod holes and fit with a threaded fastener / knob mechanism of your choice.  Because you ripped through the guide rod holes, they are smaller and will grip on the rods when the fastener is tightened.  You can add a loose spline or a couple of loose dowels to help keep the upper and lower board sections in parallel alignment.  If you make two of these units and join them with a threaded fastener, you can clamp one on the router guide rods, loosen the clamp screw on the other and turn the threaded fastener to effect fine adjustment of the guide.

 

[John Stevens]

I think one would find that using two edge guides to make a sliding dovetail won't yeild a very precise result.  If big gaps are okay (and structurally they should be), then go for it.  I've made a jig like the one described by Dave R. and although it works satisfactorily for installing Soss hinges, there's enough flex that I wouldn't bother trying to use it to make a sliding dovetail unless it would not be visible.  For anyone who wants to build a jig like that, try lining the inside surfaces with something like UHMW or UHMW tape so it will slide along the work piece.

As far as sliding DTs go, just FWIW, I built a night stand using sliding DTs, and I'm not impressed with them as a construction technique.  Compared to the alternatives, they take longer to make and don't deliver any significant advantages (other than aesthetic, I guess).

 

[Dave Ronyak]

If you review some of Jerry Work's posts and manuals, in one of them he shows use of two Festool edge guides to guide a 1010? router on the edge of a table leg to cut the grooves for some inlay.  That requires high precision.

 

[John Stevens]

If you review some of Jerry Work's posts and manuals, in one of them he shows use of two Festool edge guides to guide a 1010? router on the edge of a table leg to cut the grooves for some inlay.  That requires high precision.

Yes, according to the manuals he publishes, Jerry seems to be able to achieve a higher precision than I can with similar setups.  You've named one example, and his MFT-mounted male-dovetail jig is the other.

My stepfather is a furniture repairman who uses the crudest of hand and power tools but does fantastic repair and restoration work on all kinds of fine furniture, so individual dexterity is one factor at play here.  Try it for yourself and draw your own conclusions, I guess.

Regards,

John