OF1010REQ compared to the new "F" version.

[Crazyraceguy]

The first pic is the size comparison showing that 20mm that many dislike.
Next is the rearrangement of the insert. For some reason they pushed the router toward the left and moved the accessories to the opposite side?
The locking knob is moved a few degrees out of line from the handle. I haven't actually used it yet, so I don't know if that will matter at all? It might to me as a left-handed user, because I hold the handle with the left and turn the lock with the right, so it will be rotated away from me. Won't matter, might even be better for 90% of users. Also because of this, they will not fit into each other's insert.
The last pic shows threaded holes in the baseplate. These are new, not on the old version. I have no idea what these are for?
The other changes are the most obvious/advertised: round dust collection port and depth stop swap.

 

[JINRO]

Gratz! I almost pulled the trigger but I'm more in need for Palm router. I wish Festool makes one, it will be instant buy for me.

 

[tsmi243]

Good comparison.  Still no light, right?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Nope, no light.  That doesn't bother me at all though. I really don't see the need that so many people ask about? First, the dust shroud covers the area where the bit is, so you couldn't see even with the best  light. Second, I rarely "look" are where the bit is cutting. It's either an edge cut with a bearing, a rail guided cut, or a pocketed cut with a bushing and template. None of these cuts requires vision of the point of cutting.
I don't do "free-hand" inlays. That might change my outlook on this, but I figure that if you can see the bit, it is throwing chips in your face.

 

[Kpp80202]

How is the “rebound” spring action? I was handling the older one at Woodcraft and it didn’t seem to want to fully return to the un-plunged position evenly. It moved very slowly for the  last few cm.

 

[tsmi243]

Nope, no light.  That doesn't bother me at all though. I really don't see the need that so many people ask about? First, the dust shroud covers the area where the bit is, so you couldn't see even with the best  light. Second, I rarely "look" are where the bit is cutting. It's either an edge cut with a bearing, a rail guided cut, or a pocketed cut with a bushing and template. None of these cuts requires vision of the point of cutting.
I don't do "free-hand" inlays. That might change my outlook on this, but I figure that if you can see the bit, it is throwing chips in your face.

Using it on the track, and having to line up the bit with a pencil mark.  That's all I can think of off hand.  I do have pretty bad shop lighting in general, that might be why I notice it.

 

[Ron B]

It might to me as a left-handed user,

As a fellow southpaw, I feel your pain.  Circular Saws are the worse, since you have to rest the saw on the portion you are cutting off, and then stand on the side the dust chute is on, so the sawdust hits your leg and ends up on the wrong side of your safety glasses.  Years ago Porter Cable made a left-handed saw, and I bought one.  On projects it was always fun to leave it out, and watch a right hander pick it up and try to use it. 

A lot of things we get used to.  Doesn't everyone read veneer calipers upside down? Tin snips are rough but I am sure you know that pain. 

 

[usernumber1]

looks like a missed opportunity to add a light. small changes and bug fixes - version 1.5 at best

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It might to me as a left-handed user,

As a fellow southpaw, I feel your pain.  Circular Saws are the worse, since you have to rest the saw on the portion you are cutting off, and then stand on the side the dust chute is on, so the sawdust hits your leg and ends up on the wrong side of your safety glasses.  Years ago Porter Cable made a left-handed saw, and I bought one.  On projects it was always fun to leave it out, and watch a right hander pick it up and try to use it. 

A lot of things we get used to.  Doesn't everyone read veneer calipers upside down? Tin snips are rough but I am sure you know that pain.

That's the beauty of the TS 55, since it has such good dust extraction. Standing to the right of the rail, sawing with the left works out very well for me. The trigger is centered and there is no trigger lock to contend with. As a lefty, that is the biggest problem I experience.
As I'm sure you know, living in a right-handed world forces us to adapt to nearly everything. Imagine a righty trying to start a car with the ignition switch on the opposite side of the steering column. They mindlessly just do things that we have to "deal with".

The job I am working on right now would be a bit of a challenge for a right-hander though.
The cut would be exactly the same, but moving the track over for each of 48 cuts would be rough. As a lefty, standing on the cut-line side of the rail, it was easy.

I did get to make a few test cuts with the OF1010 F today. As I thought, the locking knob is a bit more awkward to reach, but it's not a deal-breaker.

Kpp80202  I didn't feel anything like that at all, very smooth, just like the other one. Maybe the one you tested needed some attention/lube or it had been dropped? (demo)

 

[Kpp80202]

Kpp80202  I didn't feel anything like that at all, very smooth, just like the other one. Maybe the one you tested needed some attention/lube or it had been dropped? (demo)

That definitely could have been the issue.

 

[Axis39]

It might to me as a left-handed user,

As a fellow southpaw, I feel your pain.  Circular Saws are the worse, since you have to rest the saw on the portion you are cutting off, and then stand on the side the dust chute is on, so the sawdust hits your leg and ends up on the wrong side of your safety glasses.  Years ago Porter Cable made a left-handed saw, and I bought one.  On projects it was always fun to leave it out, and watch a right hander pick it up and try to use it. 

A lot of things we get used to.  Doesn't everyone read veneer calipers upside down? Tin snips are rough but I am sure you know that pain.

I am ambidextrous, but some things I am left hand dominant and others right hand dominant.  I have always struggled with sidewinder saws.  When I discovered worm drives saws, with the blade on the other side, my life changed.

But, on the original topic...  I just started looking at the OF 1010.  I am still confused between the REQ and F version.  When I looked at the Festool site, it looked like the F version came with the rail guide, bu the other one came with a systainer?  Is this incorrect?  But, you're saying they made actual changes to the router itself and both come with the systainer?

Man, Festool stuff can be a touch confusing when you aren't used to the way they do business.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Oh yeah, they both come in a Systainer. The F version comes in the newer Sys3 Systainer and for some reason they changed the way that the accessories fit inside with it? I don't really get that, other than it was an "opportunity" to change things because they needed to make a new insert anyway? It would make it more obvious that it was different. They don't fit in each other's insert.
They both come with the rail guide and rods, 1/4" and 8mm collets, but neither comes with the edge guide (at least in the US)
I seem to remember Peter Parfit saying that it did come with the edge guide in the UK and I assume the rest of Europe?
Yes, changes to the router itself too. The depth stop turret, vacuum port shape, locking knob, etc

 

[mino]

...
The job I am working on right now would be a bit of a challenge for a right-hander though.
The cut would be exactly the same, but moving the track over for each of 48 cuts would be rough. As a lefty, standing on the cut-line side of the rail, it was easy.
...

Right-hander here, but I really appreciate the heft of the TSC 55 for cutting combined with its smoothness. Got so used to its stability that I just use the hand which is more convenient ref. position of the stock and rail around the table. Switching between all the time. Yeah, DC is a huge part of it!

 

[Steve1]

I got one on order with Lee Valley.
Delivery date keeps getting pushed out.  Now saying May 21.

 

[Paul_HKI]

Oh yeah, they both come in a Systainer. The F version comes in the newer Sys3 Systainer and for some reason they changed the way that the accessories fit inside with it? I don't really get that, other than it was an "opportunity" to change things because they needed to make a new insert anyway? It would make it more obvious that it was different. They don't fit in each other's insert.
They both come with the rail guide and rods, 1/4" and 8mm collets, but neither comes with the edge guide (at least in the US)
I seem to remember Peter Parfit saying that it did come with the edge guide in the UK and I assume the rest of Europe?
Yes, changes to the router itself too. The depth stop turret, vacuum port shape, locking knob, etc

Edge quide is included here in Europe alright, but at least up here in Northern Europe, we just get the 8mm collet.  I added the 1/4" as an accessory.  Not sure about the UK variant bundle.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Edge quide is included here in Europe alright, but at least up here in Northern Europe, we just get the 8mm collet.  I added the 1/4" as an accessory.  Not sure about the UK variant bundle.

So, they trade one for the other? Ok
I didn't think about it before, but there would be a UK specific set because of the Plug end difference.

Is 1/4" common there? I would think that it would be 6mm?

8mm bits are not common here at all, but since it can't take 1/2" (or 12mm) I do appreciate the option. It has taken me some time to source them, even getting a Bosch set form Amazon DE. Lee Valley has them in the US. You can even search their site for them specifically.
As "over the top" as I am about things, I did buy another edge guide for the new one too.

I may never need it on the OF1010, but I also have a 1/8" collet that will fit them too. The same one also fits the MFK700, but I got it for the Shaper Origin.

 

[mino]

...
Is 1/4" common there? I would think that it would be 6mm?
...

In Europe (and elsewhere, I presume) 8 mm is "the collet" as it can be supported by even trim routers and is strong-enough for medium/general ones.

6mm is more a specialist thing here, dedicaded to trim routers for pros. 6mm bit selection is very limited and expensive compared to 8mm which is ubiquitous.

There two things going for 1/4/ over 6mm:
- it is 20% stronger than 6mm
- there is a huge bit selection from US-targeted imports

As for availability (tied to prices) it is 8mm >> 12mm > 12.7(1/2") > 6.35(1/4") >> 6mm.

Routers which max at 8mm rarely ship 6mm collets but may have 1/4" collets included.

 

[DynaGlide]

I really wish 8mm was more of a standard here. I would use my 1010 a lot more if it was.

 

[mino]

I really wish 8mm was more of a standard here. I would use my 1010 a lot more if it was.

IMO the /global/ market should consolidate on 1/4"(6.35), 8mm and 1/2"(12,7).

By now all tool brands are global and ALL the big routers are designed to accomodate 1/2" collets. Using them with 12mm collets is just losing the 20% added stiffness and gaining literally nothing - bar political points of the puritans out there.

For a "middle" collet, most smaller routers which cannot handle 1/2 are today designed for 8mm (3/8" and 5/16" being non-existent) which means there is zero point using them with 1/4". This also results in these routers being either handicapped in the US market or not even sold there.
Given the 8mm is the only one with the sizeable market and it sets well between 1/4 and 1/2 it makes sense to treat it as the "3rd one" in the US market as well.

For trim routers, the big market is the US/UK one for 1/4" collets so there is precisely zero point in 6mm. It brings no benefit - in a global market and only complicates things.

I see these fundamentals happening in Europe. Both 1/2 and 1/4 do not seem to be going anywhere, actually are making inroads as 6 and 12mm do not provide any tangible benefits, to the contrary. While 8mm is firmly in the mainstream and is the hobby router king.

 

[xedos]

I really wish 8mm was more of a standard here. I would use my 1010 a lot more if it was.

Why does what the peanut gallery prefers have a bearing on how much you use a tool you like ?

I assume the implication is that you can't find bits with 8mm shanks ?  [unsure]

I know the 8mm thing has been discussed round here before and Lee Valley mentioned as a good source for 8mm bits.  Amazon's selection of 8mm shanked bits is pretty good too.  A / your CMT dealer has access to their full lineup of 8mm shank bits from Europe as long as you're willing to do the legwork to glean the part numbers.  Between these three sources I'd be flabbergasted if you couldn't find exactly the bit you needed.