OF1400 or 1010

[williaty]

Of 1010 without a doubt. Here's my reasoning (which I used to convince myself to buy an OF1010).

1) Lighter. Most of the time when I'm not using a router table, I'm doing something weird and lighter is better.
2) Better visibility. The dust collection on the 1010 works better than the 1400 according to basically every review out there and it's nice to be able to see what's going on.
3) I don't think the 1/4" and 8mm collets are a limitation. If I'm doing something that requires a half inch shank, I really ought to be using a router table for safety.
4) Cost. I can use the price difference to buy more bits, accessories, etc.

 

[fdengel]

3) I don't think the 1/4" and 8mm collets are a limitation. If I'm doing something that requires a half inch shank, I really ought to be using a router table for safety.

I have bits that can easily be found with either a 1/4" or a 1/2" shank, and I generally lean toward the 1/2" shank when possible, because it is less likely to snap and fling the bit out of the tool while I am using it.  So for safety reasons, I typically prefer to use 1/2" shank bits in my handheld routers when reasonable.  No guard like the table has to keep the bit from flying out to who-knows-where.  I have had a bit (1/4" shank) snap on me once; thankfully, no harm done.

It wouldn't keep me from getting a 1010 (which is on my shopping list right now) and using 1/4" shank (or preferably 8mm when I can find them) bits, but if I had a 1400, I would definitely try to leverage that 1/2" collet.

 

[Kev]

Of 1010 without a doubt. Here's my reasoning (which I used to convince myself to buy an OF1010).

1) Lighter. Most of the time when I'm not using a router table, I'm doing something weird and lighter is better.
2) Better visibility. The dust collection on the 1010 works better than the 1400 according to basically every review out there and it's nice to be able to see what's going on.
3) I don't think the 1/4" and 8mm collets are a limitation. If I'm doing something that requires a half inch shank, I really ought to be using a router table for safety.
4) Cost. I can use the price difference to buy more bits, accessories, etc.

I need to ignore (4) as I already have a OF 1400 ... but "need" an OF 1010 too. Hmm, should probably not look at (3) either.

(1) and (2) are good  [wink]

 

[suds]

How big a deal is the lack of the ratcheting bit install/removal?  I like it on mine but have no clue how big a deal it is on the 1010

 

[score0matic]

the lack of ratchet on the 1010  has no real effect because you can access the collet easily

 

[Vindingo]

One minor gripe I have with the 1010 is that I don't think the springs are strong enough.  I have to give it a little pull sometimes to get it to come back up.  It also isn't as smooth plunging as the 1400 I have used. 

I took it apart, cleaned the rods, added 3 in 1 oil and it is still pretty jerky... 

 

[Ken Nagrod]

One minor gripe I have with the 1010 is that I don't think the springs are strong enough.  I have to give it a little pull sometimes to get it to come back up.  It also isn't as smooth plunging as the 1400 I have used. 

I took it apart, cleaned the rods, added 3 in 1 oil and it is still pretty jerky... 

Vinny,

Why not send it in for a Festool once-over?

 

[Vindingo]

Why not send it in for a Festool once-over?

Ken,

Where does one send their router for a once-over?  I'm still under the 30 day, but the dealer is an hour away. 

I'm a little bummed because I wanted to use it specifically for an inlay this evening, but the plunge just isn't smooth enough for the precision I needed. 

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Vinny,

First I thought it was an old (out of warranty) router and in either case, send it to Festool in Indiana free of charge since they take care of the shipping both ways the 1st year of warranty OR make the drive to visit your buddy Sean who I'm sure will gladly swap it out for another if he has one in stock.  Why put up with a tool you're not happy with that you just got?

Inlay work seems too important to mess around with a troublesome plunge router.

 

[hhh]

==> So for safety reasons, I typically prefer to use 1/2" shank bits in my handheld routers when reasonable.  

Exactly!  I had a bit snap to me once with 1/4 and with a high-quality HSS spiral bit.  I've also had this happen with an 8mm solid carbide spiral bit. For those that have never had a bit snap, it's seriously scary.  I switched to 1/2 inch 15 years ago and never had a problem since.  the only time I use 8mm is when routing dovetails.  if you only work with 'softer' hard woods (janka about 1300 or less), then this may never be an issue.  but if you ever need to route ipe, bloodwood, etc then seriously consider 1/2.

@OP -- if your friend is really only going to do some edge finishing and some shallow dados, then the 1010 is a fine choice.  however, if he get's the 'bug' and moves from home improvement/DIY to furniture (how many of of us got started that way?), then the 1400 will grow with his needs.  the suggestion that you can just add a 2200 later needs to be considered against cost and experience -- the 2200 is my favorite router, but i would never recommend it for the inexperienced-- it's also seriously expensive when you add the accessory kit.

 

[Tinker]

I would go for the 1010 for his needs.  I have both the OF 1000 (pre 1010) ans the 1400.  For almost all of my work, including dados, the 1000 is adequate.  If I think the router will have problems handling 3/4" dados, i take shallower cuts going deeper with each cut.  I am only a part timer in the shop and time is not important.  There are often times when it is convenient to use two roouters (two different bits switching for same project) that I set up two routers at same time. 

I have a couple of PC routers that almost never get fired up.  A problem with them has been that sometimes a 1/4" bit will slip down in the collet.  I have tightened as much as possible, cleaned the collets and just about anything else i could think of, but the 1/4" bits will still sometimes slip.  That has never happened with my 1000.  I also have an old Milwaukee that I would not part with.  It is a slid base, but only a 1/4" collet.  The bits don't slip with that router either, but does not have variable speed or soft start.  I use that one sometimes for DT's when cutting tails as it will stat put at whatever depth I set it.  The tails will get cut with the 1000 in those situations as it collects the dust and chips better. 

I had the PC's and Milwaukee long before I discovered Festoys.  One purchase of ATF 55 with MFT and I was hopelessly hooked.  If your friend does not want to spend any more on tools after beyond one router, advise him to stay away from GREEN & BLACK.  [scratch chin]
Tinker

 

[williaty]

What about those of use who have had 1/2" bits snap? It's not like they're magically snap proof.

 

[hhh]

==> What about those of use who have had 1/2" bits snap? It's not like they're magically snap proof.

Agreed, but I've never seen/experienced it.  It may happen, and i would like to know of instances where it does (bit type, carbide/hss, etc).  I could imaging that a solid carbide might snap, but again, have not experienced it and I go through a lot of hard stuff (janka above 2500).

 

[williaty]

I'm just pointing out that your fear of 1/4" bits doesn't entirely make sense. I've snapped a 1/2" shank bit with it clipped a knot I wasn't aware of yet I've used way, way, way more 1/4" shank bits and never snapped one of them.

With any shank size, it's entirely possible to go your entire life without snapping one if you work safely and there are no severe surprises in the wood.

With any shank size, it's entirely possible to snap one the next time you pick up the router if you do something dumb or if there's a 30-06 slug in the wood.

 

[hhh]

==> I'm just pointing out that your fear of 1/4" bits doesn't entirely make sense. I've snapped a 1/2" shank bit with it clipped a knot I wasn't aware of yet I've used way, way, way more 1/4" shank bits and never snapped one of them.

Very well could be.  It's just I've seen (and know of far more instances of) snapping 1/4" shank bits (especially solid carbide spirals which I use a lot) then 1/2" shank.  Maybe it's just me.  Might make an interesting poll.

 

[RC]

I bought the OF1400 based on the versatility of the tool with support for 1/2" shank & more power just to find that not a single hardware store near me stocks anything else but 8mm shank bits  [doh]

I find it a bit heavy to handle on narrow stock. Also managed to hit the overload protection circuit all the time while I was cutting 22mm wide and 25mm deep grooves lengthwise into a 2x3 fence posts long side when I tried to do it in one pass with a 22mm bit -> even with the OF1400 I had to downgrade to a 18mm wide bit and do four passes per groove to get them done (both sides half depth + full depth). Oh, and get a proper VAC - I managed to fill the Kärcher VAC I had up to the routers dust shroud multiple times while running those grooves with its idiotic 90-deg angled inlet pipe getting blocked by a splinter and total blockage follows...

I would suggest that your friend get the OF1010 since it comes standard with the FS800/2 guide rail & rail connector in the Set-version which will be good to start with cutting straight grooves and not have to straight away go shopping for the rail + rail attachment for the OF1400 that does not have them in a set available. Also I suppose the 1010 being lighter it would be easier to handle and as someone mentioned earlier in retrospect I should probably have taken the 1010-Set route first and then buy the OF2200+CMS package if more power and table capability is needed. Also 8mm/1/4" shank bits seem to be a lot cheaper to start off with.

Don't get me wrong though - I'm a happy camper with my 1.4k and got the rail & connector and I'm eying the CMS-module for my router, but 95% the time I could just as well get away with a 1010.

 

[fdengel]

In the USA, the 8mm bits basically don't exist outside of a few Festool ones.

They are either 1/4" or 1/2" here.

 

[regdor1999]

Ahhh... but they DO.  Keep your eyes peeled from an announcement from Rob Lee any day/week now.  Lee Valley has their new 8mm shank line in stock now, but the website isn't updated yet.  The catalog and website will roll out the same time, so it should be sometime in March.  The prices are in line with their other bits, so no longer are we being gouged for Festool bits (although those are of excellent quality, just expensive if you aren't generating revenue from them).

How do I know this?  I asked him... and I bought some, and they are in my possession.  [smile]  I won't have the time to try them out for a few weeks, though, unfortunately.  They are the same as the rest of their brand of bits, just 8mm shank.

For upcut and downcut spiral bits, I ordered some Whiteside (my preferred brand) bits with a 5/16" shank from Holbren.  This size I think is a thousandth or two off of 8mm, so should work fine.  I'm awaiting their arrival so I can test the fit and report back for sure.  I'll post when I confirm this.

EDIT:  I measured them...
Lee Valley 8mm shank bits:  7.99 mm,  0.314 inches  (any inaccuracy is likely me, using the micrometer quickly during lunch)
Whiteside 5/16" (inch) bits:  7.93 mm, 0.312 inches

The Whiteside bits I bought are an up-spiral RU3100 and down-spiral RD3100, from Holbren.com .  Lee Valley also has a Onsrud 5/16" spiral bit for a few bucks more, and I think that is made in the USA as well.

The 5/16 inch shank bits will fit fine in the of1010, and the new availability of the 8mm shank bits from LV pushed me over the edge to select the 1010 router instead of the 1400.  I also have a router table with a Triton 2.25 hp router in it and that's what I would use for dangerous or heavy duty work with the 1/2" bits I have.

 

[NoBreyner]

I went with the 1010.  I have a Skil plunge router I don't use.  I have a fixed base Porter Cable router in a router table, and use the 1010 for free hand routing.  With all the accessories available for the 1010 it would be better for me to use this one free hand.

 

[hockey_magnet]

Ahhh... but they DO.  Keep your eyes peeled from an announcement from Rob Lee any day/week now.  Lee Valley has their new 8mm shank line in stock now, but the website isn't updated yet.  The catalog and website will roll out the same time, so it should be sometime in March.  The prices are in line with their other bits, so no longer are we being gouged for Festool bits (although those are of excellent quality, just expensive if you aren't generating revenue from them).

How do I know this?  I asked him... and I bought some, and they are in my possession.   [smile]  I won't have the time to try them out for a few weeks, though, unfortunately.  They are the same as the rest of their brand of bits, just 8mm shank.

For upcut and downcut spiral bits, I ordered some Whiteside (my preferred brand) bits with a 5/16" shank from Holbren.  This size I think is a thousandth or two off of 8mm, so should work fine.  I'm awaiting their arrival so I can test the fit and report back for sure.  I'll post when I confirm this.

I saw the Lee Valley 8mm bits when I bought my 1010 a week ago. The sign said there were 85 different 8mm bits available.