OF2200 North American version

Hyperluminous

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This post made me  have a question and some concerns concerning the OF2200, specifically the 110 V North American version.

Are you required to run the OF2200 on a dedicated NEMA 5-20P receptacle with a dedicated 20 A circuit breaker separately from the dust extractor? I would like to get one for its sheer power, but I feel like I'd have to get it its own 20 A circuit in my workshop.

If running above 81% of its rated max power on a 15 A circuit, it becomes problematic and you only have 6 to 8 minutes before the excessive thermal buildup trips the breaker (and only if you're running on the circuit alone seperate from the dust extractor or anything else).

I know that it's an actual challenge to run the OF2200 81%+ max power, but it doesn't seem right that a piece of electrical equipment within its operational limits can add thermal buildup on a dedicated breaker.
 
A handheld router is a low-duty tool so any "thermal buildup" is pretty much a non-issue.

When installed in a router table, that is a different topic and a dedicated circuit should be par for the course at 110V.

My 2 cents.
 
Hyperluminous said:
This post made me  have a question and some concerns concerning the OF2200, specifically the 110 V North American version.

Are you required to run the OF2200 on a dedicated NEMA 5-20P receptacle with a dedicated 20 A circuit breaker separately from the dust extractor? I would like to get one for its sheer power, but I feel like I'd have to get it its own 20 A circuit in my workshop.

If running above 81% of its rated max power on a 15 A circuit, it becomes problematic and you only have 6 to 8 minutes before the excessive thermal buildup trips the breaker (and only if you're running on the circuit alone seperate from the dust extractor or anything else).

I know that it's an actual challenge to run the OF2200 81%+ max power, but it doesn't seem right that a piece of electrical equipment within its operational limits can add thermal buildup on a dedicated breaker.

Yeah, but if they wanted to do it right, they would have/should have made the CTs 20A machines. But then of course people probably would have complained about that.

There was a similar discussion recently, the breaker trip curve for 15A breakers basically will let it pull the 18+ Amps of the OF2200 basically forever.  with the CT, yeah, if you find a way to pull full power you won't get too long before it pops.  It's not alone in this though.  You can find microwaves and other kitchen appliances that will be in the same spot as the router.  They know you won't run it for long.  Not saying it's right, but it will work.
 
The 2200 and a CT will blow a 15A circuit; I haven't blown the combination on a 20A circuit.  The plugs are normal 15A plugs on each, so you can plug them in anywhere.  By itself, you will probably not blow the 15A circuit, but a big part of the attraction of a 2200 is the great dust collection.

If you own your home, a 20A circuit in your workshop is probably worth it.  I ran a pair of them around the perimeter of my basement, so that I can plug in any tool anywhere [the house came with a single 15A GFI in the basement].  I don't think you need to worry about having something dedicated in a home shop setting.
 
cpw said:
The 2200 and a CT will blow a 15A circuit; I haven't blown the combination on a 20A circuit.  The plugs are normal 15A plugs on each, so you can plug them in anywhere.  By itself, you will probably not blow the 15A circuit, but a big part of the attraction of a 2200 is the great dust collection.

If you own your home, a 20A circuit in your workshop is probably worth it.  I ran a pair of them around the perimeter of my basement, so that I can plug in any tool anywhere [the house came with a single 15A GFI in the basement].  I don't think you need to worry about having something dedicated in a home shop setting.

I never have tried that setup on a 15A circuit, but it makes sense the breaker would be kicked when it powered up.
 
I haven't had a breaker trip on startup.  Short burst are mostly fine, but when doing something like a slatwall profile it would trip half way through an 8' groove.  Even better of course is to think about it ahead of time and plug it into the other side of the garage that has the 20A outlet instead of the closer outlet that is only 15A.
 
Festool needs an Amp meter right on top the tools, user set able "redline" zone.  Look down and see you are pulling 12A, start getting nervous, as it goes into the red of 13-18Amps,  flashes "danger to Vacuum"

[big grin]

 
I run my 2200 through a Mini on a 15 amp circuit all the time. Never tripped the breaker.
 
DeformedTree said:
Festool needs an Amp meter right on top the tools, user set able "redline" zone.  Look down and see you are pulling 12A, start getting nervous, as it goes into the red of 13-18Amps,  flashes "danger to Vacuum"

[big grin]

If this was a F&F reference, well played. :)

This entire thread reminds me that I should probably look more closely at the sub-panel in my garage and figure out which outlets are on which circuit.  There are GFCI outlets installed within a foot of standard outlets and I'm wondering if the older outlets are even possibly wired back to the main panel...
 
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