OK, so I'm one of those guys that........

[LostInTheWood]

.....cut into his MFT fence during a bevel cut    :'(      Totally forgot about pulling the fence back during a bevel.  You don't see it under the rail and tend to forget (at least I do).  Did anyone else do this?  I didn't go clean through, so right now I just left it "as-is."  I'm guessing I'll just cut off the damaged part, only about 5/8".    So,  does anyone have an idea as to remind oneself about cutting bevels with the MFT  or some technique other than setting the fence way left all the time?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Since you've already cut it, put a full 45 on it rather than squaring it back up. Problem solved.  [wink]

Think that's bad... What about cutting all the way through the MDF, cutting it in half essentially. Or, cutting deep into the aluminum profiles on the side of the table? I've not done it but I hear it happens. Gotta check that cut depth.

Stock blade cuts aluminum well, eh?  [embarassed]

Edit: I keep my fence about an inch or so back from the edge of the rail. We're all forgetful from time to time...

 

[tiralie]

 Did anyone else do this?   I didn't go clean through, so right now I just left it "as-is."  I'm guessing I'll just cut off the damaged part, only about 5/8".

Yup, I cut it about the same way you have. Now I set up the fence so it's under the rail by half the width of the rail.
Tim

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I don't even tempt it, I just keep it out from under the rail.

Amazingly, I have not cut the extrusions or through the table top, yet.

 

[peter halle]

I use the three finger approach.  Three fingers from the plastic guide strip to the end of the fence.  The first time I cut mine I used the one finger approach afterwards.

Cutting all the way thru the top does allow you to get a glimpse of the floor below so I hear  [eek].

Peter

 

[Corwin]

...  So,  does anyone have an idea as to remind oneself about cutting bevels with the MFT  or some technique other than setting the fence way left all the time?

After completing the bevel on your new custom-length fence, run a pencil along the backside of the guide rail to mark a line on the fence.  Next, lift the rail off the fence and use a bright-green marker to the right of the pencil line.  Now, the next time you set you fence simply make sure you can not see that bright-green mark.

 

[BigHonu]

oooh, good idea about marking the fence!

 

[awdriven]

I'll come clean. I've beveled my fence. *cringe*

 

[Brice Burrell]

...Think that's bad... What about cutting all the way through the MDF, cutting it in half essentially. Or, cutting deep into the aluminum profiles on the side of the table? I've not done it but I hear it happens. Gotta check that cut depth.

Stock blade cuts aluminum well, eh?  [embarassed].....

PeterK, you want to reply to this post?? [poke] [big grin]

 

[maxpower10]

My first cut with my new TS55 and the crossheaded guides fell out.  I cut clean into the guide rail due to the lack of alignment.  WOW, was Festool quick with a response and sent me out on new splinter guard and new guide rail.  Awesome service!  After cutting aluminum with that blade, it still cut awesome!  Guess I should have asked for a new blade, but the fast and awesome service was enough for me!

Scott

 

[PeterK]

Dang it Brice! You have a good memory. You were not even in my class when that happened.  [eek]
Wonder who got the 40% discount reconditioned MFT/3???  [oops]

 

[LostInTheWood]

After completing the bevel on your new custom-length fence, run a pencil along the backside of the guide rail to mark a line on the fence.  Next, lift the rail off the fence and use a bright-green marker to the right of the pencil line.  Now, the next time you set you fence simply make sure you can not see that bright-green mark.

I like this idea, but got to thinking and realized this will not always work.    If you deliberately calibrate your fence, let's call it,  "setback"  it will only work for one particular thickness of material.  As you raise the rail higher to cut thicker material, the point that the blade contacts the surface of the MFT keeps reaching farther into your setback.  In other words suppose I calibrate my setback with my rail height for cutting half inch material.  The blade will reach back approximately half inch with a cut at 45 degrees.  Following the same procedure to cut say 1 1/2"  thick material, now my blade is reaching back  1 1/2".  Therefore, you have to adjust your setback to 1 1/2+ to clear the saw blade.   

That being said, the most setback one would have would be the max thickness cut at an angle of 45 or greater.  Once that is established you can calibrate your fence to that and have no worries for all other cuts.  For those that have the TS55    AND    the TS75  you would have to use the TS75 to calibrate to be safe.   

Does this make sense to yall?    Please chime in if you think otherwise because I think I will make this into a another Festool mod for my MFT. 

 

[Corwin]

After completing the bevel on your new custom-length fence, run a pencil along the backside of the guide rail to mark a line on the fence.  Next, lift the rail off the fence and use a bright-green marker to the right of the pencil line.  Now, the next time you set you fence simply make sure you can not see that bright-green mark.

I like this idea, but got to thinking and realized this will not always work.    If you deliberately calibrate your fence, let's call it,  "setback"  it will only work for one particular thickness of material.   As you raise the rail higher to cut thicker material, the point that the blade contacts the surface of the MFT keeps reaching farther into your setback.  In other words suppose I calibrate my setback with my rail height for cutting half inch material.  The blade will reach back approximately half inch with a cut at 45 degrees.   Following the same procedure to cut say 1 1/2"  thick material, now my blade is reaching back  1 1/2".   Therefore, you have to adjust your setback to 1 1/2+ to clear the saw blade.     

That being said, the most setback one would have would be the max thickness cut at an angle of 45 or greater.   Once that is established you can calibrate your fence to that and have no worries for all other cuts.   For those that have the TS55     AND    the TS75  you would have to use the TS75 to calibrate to be safe.   

Does this make sense to yall?     Please chime in if you think otherwise because I think I will make this into a another Festool mod for my MFT. 

Yes, you've got the idea.  Sorry, I realized that I forgot to mention this after I posted. 

.

 

[lumbajac]

Not sure if you're totally new to your MFT3 or not - but to address your current situation and get pointers on setup altogether it might be beneficial to watch Steve Bace go through it all here:  MFT 3 setup

 

[sancho57]

I cut mines, I dont remeber how but it wasnt for a bevel. I wish it was b/c I wouldnt feel as bad knowing it was a honest mistake but as it is mines has a nice cut in it.

 

[sl_1800]

I have had my MFT3 for over a year just cut the fence on a  bevel last week.  [mad]

 

[peter halle]

Don't be sad.  You got a cheap education and nothing is harmed.  Winner!

 

[Frans]

No no no, of course I have never cut into my fence, and I really don't know why it's slightly shorter than the ones they sell nowadays.  [big grin]

 

[sancho57]

I cut into mines to. At first I was a little bummed about it. But after reading this thread, I feel like its a badge of honor :>D