OLD - Parf Dogs

[Stone Message]

Hello Everyone

The prototype 'Parf Dogs' have arrived and I have made a quick video to describe just some of their uses. They are being marketed by Intelligent Workshop here in the UK and they ship to most destinations - they certainly have Europe well and truely covered.

Although I have designed the Parf Dogs I have not been paid for the design but have managed to keep the prototype pair of Parf Dogs as a reward and expect a pair of the production items in due course. I hope that you will find them interesting.

Here is the link...

PLEASE NOTE THAT PARF DOGS ARE NOW BEING MADE BY LEE VALLEY AND ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE THROUGH INTELLIGENT WORKSHOP

SEE THE NEW THREAD:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-sales-dealer-area/parf-dogs-28465/msg280159/?topicseen#msg280159

Parf Dogs for the Festool MFT3 and Walko work benches

Peter

 

[Roseland]

Nice job.

I have replicated several MFT tops, using Axminster's 20mm beech dowelling to locate the template to the virgin MDF; I'm sure Parf Dogs would be better still. 

The first time I tried it I found it difficult to drill 20mm holes that were all perfectly vertical.  I now drill a 13mm pilot hole, and use a 1/2" router bit with a bearing to open the holes to 20mm.  This technique also minimises breakout on the underside.

Another point worth mentioning is that with Parf Dogs (or, less accurately, dowelling) one can step the template across, and make a bigger worktop than the MFT's.

I'll have to think about a set!

Andrew

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Andrew

I tried a number of different ways to create 20mm holes at a reasonable pace. The bit that I eventually used is brilliant and not expensive. You are right, one can use a step method to produce elongated MFT tops.

Peter

 

[IWT-Tom]

Thanks Peter

I'm hoping to have the Parf Dogs in stock by the end of this week or early next.  I'll post here when they go live.

Many thanks

Tom

 

[jtparrothead]

Quite a brilliant idea Peter, simple but infinitely useful.

 

[woodguy7]

Very nifty Peter.  Any idea how much a pair are ?  If I had an MFT I would pick up a pair for sure  ;D

 

[ScotF]

Great video, Peter!  Thanks for posting it -- loved the step-by-step for the top replacement.

Scot

 

[sancho57]

Those Id buy, to bad they wont be cost effetive to be shiped across the pond.

 

[Stone Message]

Those Id buy, to bad they wont be cost effetive to be shiped across the pond.

You will have to ask Intelligent Workshop that question - it might be better than you think. Qwas have the design but do not appear to have any plans to make any (yet).

Peter

 

[IWT-Tom]

I'm happy to ship them over if Qwas aren't going to make them.  The shipping isn't too bad on these.  Email me for a quote.

 

[Kev]

Hi Peter,

Watching the guide rail rock on the sample piece in the demo made me feel a little nervous. I'd still want to include some support to keep things flat.

I honestly thought what was coming was a track slot thingy on the end of a dog, so that you simply slid two long dogs into the track and dropped it into the table - I don't like having to keep the track in place with a spare hand.

Please tell me if my understanding is all wrong.

Kev

 

[Kev]

More on above - think "T dog".

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Kev

Worry not...Even when using the Festool bits and pieces (ie no dogs) one needs to sometimes slide a piece of similar thickness material under the end of a guide rail to keep things level. You get this effect with rail dogs but with them they may not allow the rail to go flat again without some assistance.

You do not need to worry about steadying the guide rail with your left hand - it is easy to do, does not need you to have a big 'Aussie' breakfast beforehand and does not hinder the operation.

The real beauty of this system is that it is so much quicker than using rail dogs. If you are doing a series of cuts (or production work) then you can take out the cut piece and put in a fresh piece in seconds - and saving time can save money. It is also much more accurate because there is some play with rail dogs, especially when they are higher up (not so deeply inserted in the MFT top).

Peter

 

[Kev]

Hi Kev

Worry not...Even when using the Festool bits and pieces (ie no dogs) one needs to sometimes slide a piece of similar thickness material under the end of a guide rail to keep things level. You get this effect with rail dogs but with them they may not allow the rail to go flat again without some assistance.

You do not need to worry about steadying the guide rail with your left hand - it is easy to do, does not need you to have a big 'Aussie' breakfast beforehand and does not hinder the operation.

The real beauty of this system is that it is so much quicker than using rail dogs. If you are doing a series of cuts (or production work) then you can take out the cut piece and put in a fresh piece in seconds - and saving time can save money. It is also much more accurate because there is some play with rail dogs, especially when they are higher up (not so deeply inserted in the MFT top).

Peter

Thanks Peter,

I suppose an added thing for me is being a lefty ... it makes a surprising difference !

You sparked my thinking here and there's something lurking just beyond my grasp, that could be the beginnings of an idea ... I may have to try and club it into clarity with a nice glass of cabernet.

cheers,

Kev.

 

[rmwarren]

Peter, nice job! I am interested in seeing what other uses folks find for the long 20mm section. Love the trammel idea!

An observation: since the guide rail is +/- 186mm wide I believe the saw kerf will run smack across another set of holes in the MFT.  Ran into the same issue while designing the rip dogs last fall, while led to the decision to make an offset clip for the guide rail:

[attachthumb=#]

[attachthumb=#]

Those clips move the rail out 20mm and miss the hole. The original prototypes lacked the offset and pulled the rail snug to the pin, aligning the cut over the holes:

[attachthumb=#]

It's not the end of the world but I found it undesirable. Over time the kerfed edges of the cut holes start to chip out a bit, which causes the MFT top to degrade a bit faster. With the Parf Dogs ability to replicate the top I guess this is self correcting.  [smile]

Good Luck with your project!

RMW

PS - Kev, ran into the same issue with the guide rail needing to be supported, the best solution I found was what Peter suggested, i.e. to use a piece of scrap to support it.

 

[Kev]

Peter, nice job! I am interested in seeing what other uses folks find for the long 20mm section. Love the trammel idea!

An observation: since the guide rail is +/- 186mm wide I believe the saw kerf will run smack across another set of holes in the MFT.  Ran into the same issue while designing the rip dogs last fall, while led to the decision to make an offset clip for the guide rail:

[attachthumb=#]

[attachthumb=#]

Those clips move the rail out 20mm and miss the hole. The original prototypes lacked the offset and pulled the rail snug to the pin, aligning the cut over the holes:

[attachthumb=#]

It's not the end of the world but I found it undesirable. Over time the kerfed edges of the cut holes start to chip out a bit, which causes the MFT top to degrade a bit faster. With the Parf Dogs ability to replicate the top I guess this is self correcting.  [smile]

Good Luck with your project!

RMW

PS - Kev, ran into the same issue with the guide rail needing to be supported, the best solution I found was what Peter suggested, i.e. to use a piece of scrap to support it.

I really like what you've done with your design. As a point of interest, why did you go for a triangular hole instead of a circle? Does it also serve another purpose?

Kev

 

[rmwarren]

Peter, nice job! I am interested in seeing what other uses folks find for the long 20mm section. Love the trammel idea!

An observation: since the guide rail is +/- 186mm wide I believe the saw kerf will run smack across another set of holes in the MFT.  Ran into the same issue while designing the rip dogs last fall, while led to the decision to make an offset clip for the guide rail:

[attachthumb=#]

[attachthumb=#]

Those clips move the rail out 20mm and miss the hole. The original prototypes lacked the offset and pulled the rail snug to the pin, aligning the cut over the holes:

[attachthumb=#]

It's not the end of the world but I found it undesirable. Over time the kerfed edges of the cut holes start to chip out a bit, which causes the MFT top to degrade a bit faster. With the Parf Dogs ability to replicate the top I guess this is self correcting.  [smile]

Good Luck with your project!

RMW

PS - Kev, ran into the same issue with the guide rail needing to be supported, the best solution I found was what Peter suggested, i.e. to use a piece of scrap to support it.

I really like what you've done with your design. As a point of interest, why did you go for a triangular hole instead of a circle? Does it also serve another purpose?

Kev

Kev,

Both designs have a +/- 20 degree angle on the outer leg of the clips. The original design pulled the rail to the pin when the rail slid forward, idea was to use any tendency of the saw to push the rail forward to snug the rail to the pin.

The final design works the same way but is bi-directional. I sometimes leave the rear clip loose on the rail, push the rail forward to snug the front clip to the pin, then slide the rear clip back tight to the pin and tighten it down. This effectively locks the rail in place, it can't slide forward or backwards, and prevents it from slipping out of alignment.

RMW

 

[ajones]

Here is the 8x4 top I am just finishing off I had waited to see the parf dog before buying rail dogs,but I am unconvinced about how practical the parf dogs would be.I guess I was expecting some revelation..

I made the top using a new mft3 top that I bought from slingers, as a template I used a cutter and guide bush and then a top bearing guided cutter to finish

I used the adjustable dogs that I bought off tool improvements and some clamps to keep everthing lined up while moving the template up the sheet.

I plan to seal the top with varnish or lacquer

 

[sancho57]

Hi Kev

Worry not...Even when using the Festool bits and pieces (ie no dogs) one needs to sometimes slide a piece of similar thickness material under the end of a guide rail to keep things level. You get this effect with rail dogs but with them they may not allow the rail to go flat again without some assistance.

You do not need to worry about steadying the guide rail with your left hand - it is easy to do, does not need you to have a big 'Aussie' breakfast beforehand and does not hinder the operation.

The real beauty of this system is that it is so much quicker than using rail dogs. If you are doing a series of cuts (or production work) then you can take out the cut piece and put in a fresh piece in seconds - and saving time can save money. It is also much more accurate because there is some play with rail dogs, especially when they are higher up (not so deeply inserted in the MFT top).

Peter

Thanks Peter,

I suppose an added thing for me is being a lefty ... it makes a surprising difference !

You sparked my thinking here and there's something lurking just beyond my grasp, that could be the beginnings of an idea ... I may have to try and club it into clarity with a nice glass of cabernet.

cheers,

Kev.

yer a lefty??? Me too. [big grin]

Knew there was something awkward about ya  [smile]

 

[Stone Message]

For Kev and Sancho and any other left handed chaps and chapesses...

I frequently find myself using my TS55 on the rail left handed (I am right handed) and I have no real problem. There have been a number of threads, here on the FOG, where people have speculated that the rails were designed by a left handed German. I admit to being very slightly ambidextrous but with the guide rail I would have thought that anyone ought to be able to do this sort of thing with either hand.

Despite what I have said, if you are left handed and do not feel safe then do not attempt to cut wood!

For everyone in North America and Australia and anywhere else where the sun shines bright - it is raining again here in my part of the UK.

Take care guys,

Peter