One Saw To Rule Them All (and similar nonsense questions ;) )

Bernmc

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2018
Messages
100
Hi FOG

First post, but I’ve been lurking and reading for some time. I’m after a bit of advice - really a chance to consolidate my own thoughts after reading 1001 opinions and bits of advice.

Warning: Waffle

(I tend to be a bit slow  [embarassed] - I was watching a whole lot of YouTube by some bloke called Peter Parfitt, and thought he did some good stuff; then I was reading these forums and some bloke called Peter seemed to talk sensibly... and finally I was thinking about a Device (Capital ‘D’) called the UJK Parf system... when finally a little bulb went off and I realised they were all thanks to the same person. Smack upside the head.)

Anyhoo. I’m getting back into woodworking (and metalworking and so on) - making work for idle hands. Background of general handiness, fixing this old house, this old car, this old bike etc. Most of my wood hacking was building stage props for an ex’s theatre productions, so very little precision needed.

I re-started by building a workbench, and ended up [blink] and swearing as the ancient, cheap mitre saw (which I use as a do-all saw) managed to cut every piece of wood at a different angle (and I was only aiming for 90deg!). Initially my own fault for not checking the setup, but after spending a chunk of time smiting the darn thing, I realised it was almost impossible to cure it without re-engineering. It was fine for building stage props where a thousand inaccuracies can be covered by smoke, mirrors, and liberal application of makeup, but it’s not capable of anything vaguely precise.

Which led to me looking at a decent set of tools. I own a T18 drill, and have a friend who’s a Festool saw fan, and here we are.

Requirements:
  • Long lasting, accurate tools
  • General woodworking, DIY; likely some finer stuff later- picture frames, furniture, recycling old wood and turning firewood and old broken trees into something nice
  • The tools won’t be subject to trade-type abuse, but they need to magically appear off my shelf and perform well for decades to come

I’m at a stage in life where I can afford to (slowly) replace my older, cheaper tools with good quality, preferably that will last forever. I don’t mind paying for good tools, but I object strongly to being ripped off.

I’m arranging a demo with one of the local Festool reps, so I’ll get to play with items of interest, or anything advised here.

My workspace is a little limited - I tend to roll out benches and tools, do Stuff, and then pack it all away so I can hide the car away from all those roving gangs of thieves, rioters, and other people that Donald Trump is afraid of (and will surely be on their way here to Australia when they find they can’t get over that wall)

I have been looking at these options, and would appreciate any thoughts you might have:

Mitre saw: Kapex 60 vs 120 - I like the extra cutting capacity of the 120, and who can resist a tool with a laser, but it’s a big beast, so I’m tending towards a dainty little 60. I worry slightly that companies make a great ‘big’ tool, and then a bunch of smaller, cheaper tools that ride along their big brother’s coat tails... the clamp supplied with the 60 compared to the 120 re-inforces this concern. It appears to be as well-engineered as a toothpick.
This is likely to be my first saw purchase, and I may end up not bothering with a table saw... so it may be the One Saw, depending on how versatile it is.

Table Saw: Sawstop jobsite saw vs a TS55 and a CMS. It’s not really portability that matters, but size (oo-er missus). I like the Sawstop concept - I’m an anaesthetist by trade, so I spend a signifacant part of my life looking and the mangled extremities of the latest tradie accident. And She Who Thinks She Must Be Obeyed wants to play as well, and she’s been known to take chunks out of her fingers with a kitchen knife!

The attraction of the CMS setup was ending up with a track saw as well, and further down the road, a router table. It does make all the space saving a little easier.

Which leads me to my second Festool concern: Accessory quality. Do they make great tools, and rubbish, over-priced accessories? I’ve read some scathing reviews of the quality of the CMS table (think it might have been on Axminster). It’s a huge amount of money to pay for an aluminium table with a few attachments, so I’d expect perfection. Similarly, I’ve read many poor reviews of Festool’s saw tracks, particularly when joining them up. I watched a tradie review the Kapex 120 vs his DeWalt mitre saw, and while he loved the saw, he hated the trolley/track system - the DeWalt stand and guides were set up in minutes with zero fuss, which could not be said for the Fesstool trolley and track setup, particularly if you didn’t have a level surface to start with.

Has anyone here lived with a CMS long term? How has it behaved? I could get a very nice Sawstop for the equivalent $2500 (Aussie dollars there) that a TS55 and CMS setup would cost. And then the 55 that only gives me a 55mm cut. If I went for the 75, there’s no discounted CMS kit with evertything included, so I’d have to buy each bit individually and pay a whole lot more. But pro is I end up with two tools and a very compact system.

Dust extraction: I have actually never even considered this in the past. I have used a device called a broom. Researching new, decent tools has been an eye-opener! So I’ve been clamping the nozzle of an old $50 Panasonic vacuum cleaner to anything I work on, and I’m liking the reduced cleanup work. But $1000? For a vacuum cleaner [wink]? Sell this crazy concept to me! Has anyone found or built a reasonable equivalent, or is the Festool system just head and shoulders above the rest?

Sanders: Pretty simple here, I think: ROTEX 150 vs ETS 150. The ROTEX seems a bit more versatile, but quite a chunky device.

*Sigh* What else...?
Mains power vs Battery equivalent. I already have the 18V T18 drill. In the real world, how does the performance of say the cordless TSC55 compare to the TS55?

I’m a little wary of being locked in to proprietary systems - like the blades for the Festool saws. No competition usually means inflated prices, but it does also mean quality control is easier. A bit like iSheep and Apple. The stuff just tends to work - I’m hoping Festool is the same.
I destroyed an Alpen carbide-tipped drill drilling four holes into my drive yesterday. The original set of 5 drills cost $30, so I’m not too fussed (and it’s the first drill that could actually get into my drive). The option would have been to get Festool’s centrotech masonry bits, at 3x the price. That would have smarted a bit if the drill had gone the same way as the Alpen as quickly.

Well, that’s about it for now. Feel free to ignore or pile in wherever. I can look at the tools in the shop, and have a play when the rep comes around, but I can’t get that real world, day-to-day experience that many of you will have, and that’s what I’m after.
 
Very happy with the KS120 (no other mitre saws beat its dust collection), and I would choose it over its smaller cousin as the KS 120 can meet all the cutting needs expected of a mitre saw (and more).

SawStop -- Please please get the PCS which has a similar footprint as the Contractor model, or the ICS, not the Contractor or the Jobsite. PCS or ICS is in a different class than the others. With the overarm dust option in place, no other cabinet saws beat its dust collection. If you decide on the PCS, get the hydraulic mobile base as well (ICS comes with the hydraulic mobile case by default).

Added remark: If your aim is to do fine woodworking stuff.
 
I have both a TS 55 & TSC 55. The cordless 55 has more power with both batteries installed than my mains saw. It is, however, a 110 volt saw, so I don’t know how that compares to the 220V offerings.

You might consider the ETS EC 150 instead for a sander. If I were to have only one RO sander, it would be the ETS EC.

Good luck on your journey.
 
Having one saw to rule them all is a really tall order! Two basic saw cuts, rip and crosscut and the Kapex just won’t do rip cuts. The table saw can do cross cuts but the capacity limitation will come into play. The table saw will do repetitive rip cuts better than all. The track saws will do both but it won’t do crosscut as consistently accurate as a sliding compound miter saw and it won’t do repetitive rips as consistently accurate as a table saw. Don’t get me wrong, it can be done under certain circumstances but generally the dedicated tool can achieve more consistent accuracy and repeatability.

I love my Festool but if it was me I would buy a table saw first and if it has to be a small one (meaning a limited rip capacity) then a track saw next once I find that I need it to break down sheet goods.

I love my Sawstop PCS and I would strongly recommend Sawstop Contactors or preferably PCS but I would not recommend the job site saw if you do not need the mobility.

Vacuums - I get your doubts about the high priced Festool vacuums. In my opinion here is where they distinguish themselves. 1. Variable suction - this really matters when paired with their sanders. 2. They hold up! Bluetooth remote capabilities. 3. Made specifically to work really well with Festool tools.

Sanders - just like saws if you you enter the world of Festool sanders thinking that you will own one to rule them all I think that you will be disappointed. Their sanders are fantastic but one of the things that makes them great is that they have a lot of very specialized sanders that do a certain job better than others. In my opinion the first Festool sander that I would buy would be the ETS EC in the size of your choice. Then if you find that you need a heavier duty beast for tough jobs then I would buy a Rotex.
 
Thanks you for the very useful advice so far.

The reason I haven't really considered the cabinet saws so far is space constraints, and the need to move things in and out of the active work area. I may have to have another think.

Incidentally, I grew up in a workshop full of tools, and the saw that the Dear Old Dad (who sadly, is now in the ground and slightly runny) used most was the Radial Arm Saw. There was a home-made table saw around, but the radial arm seemed to do virtually everything bar those bigger sheets. Not many of them around as new buys here in Aus (DeWalt do one), but some big old chunks of metal around on the 2nd hand pages. If I had the stomach for a rebuild some time...
 
Originally I used a Radial Arm Saw as a central tool in my shop but as sliding compound miter saws advanced and table saw safety improved the RAS got pushed aside. The radial arm saw with the head turned will do rips but I do not consider that a very safe procedure compared to these other tools (modern versions) discussed here. Again, just my opinion!
 
About the only use I find for my RAS now a days is I keep a dado set in it and use it to hog out wide half laps and other such chores. It eats a lot of real estate in the shop I know for those limited uses but it is faster than setting up the TS or a router to perform the same operation. Doesn't fit every application/need for a dado but I have it so I use it where I can.

If I was starting over I would not buy a RAS with the current selection of tools available. I've had my RAS for over 30 years and it's been upgraded and tamed with better, safer guards so it's not the monster forearm and finger gobbling machine that it first was.
 
Bernmc said:
Thanks you for the very useful advice so far.

The reason I haven't really considered the cabinet saws so far is space constraints, and the need to move things in and out of the active work area. I may have to have another think.

Snip.

I have almost every stationary machine plus a workbench in my two-car garage (parked along the walls), and I can still park two suvs in it. Everything is mobile...if I want to, I can move the PCS (with the upgraded mobile base) in and out with one hand. The 450-lb saw is easier to move than my bandsaw.
 
Buy a vacuum first. Yes it's worth it. Especially in a limited space. Especially if you'll be sanding too. Consider a model with automatic filter cleaning for best performance during long sanding sessions, such as the Festool CT 26 AC or the Starmix iPulse.

It's not really about reduced cleanup, although that's a nice bonus. It's about tons of wood dust NOT going straight into your lungs. Get most of the dust at the source. Ask some lung specialists at your workplace what COPD looks like. If I sound harsh, it's only because frequent dust exposure should be treated as a serious health hazard.
 
I'm a fan of the Sawstop cabinet saw as I own the 3HP Industrial model (largest model). However, a high volume dust system is required. I don't think a shop vac has enough "suck" to work very well with the big saw. The hydraulic base makes the saw highly portable. The over arm blade guard/dust collector is a very worthwhile addition.

 
Birdhunter said:
I'm a fan of the Sawstop cabinet saw as I own the 3HP Industrial model (largest model). However, a high volume dust system is required. I don't think a shop vac has enough "suck" to work very well with the big saw. The hydraulic base makes the saw highly portable. The over arm blade guard/dust collector is a very worthwhile addition.

Here is my solution to meeting both the space constraint and dust collection needs for the SawStop (PCS):

I have a dust collector (1.5 HP?) connected to the main dust port, and a shop vac (mounted to the underside of the extension table of the saw) connected to the overarm blade guard.

The set-up allows me to achieve 99% plus dust collection efficiency as claimed by SawStop, except in edge trimming cuts. I can cut MDF without wearing a dust mask!

I use this to get a seamless sawing/dust collection operation:http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=63013&cat=1,42401,72660

When I turn on the saw, both dust collection machines fire up immediately. I have not come across any cabinet saw with a better dust collection ability than mine.

 
I don't have a miter saw these days (I can borrow one).  It always got on my nerves how much equipment I was taking with me any time I had to put carpentry stuff in a truck.

When I found a Secanta by Metabo I finally found the tool that could be both a jobsite table saw and cut compound miters.  That's my one saw to rule them all.  Rip capacity is only around 12" with the supplied fence.  I built a support table to the right of the blade I can attach for long pieces with a fence and stops.

The Norsaw, made in Norway, is kind of a similar idea.  I had been looking for a small one of those for awhile when I found the Secanta. 

If you want to cut out everything with a machine it's hard to get away from collecting machines to do specific cuts more efficiently.  A old small tilt-top table saw can work for ripping and crosscutting all sorts of smaller sections.  Radial arm saws are versatile (the Secanta is essentially an inverted radial arm saw) but many woodworkers don't want to rip with one these days. 

I built a panel saw in my shop for crosscutting large sheets.  It rips too but I don't use it for that much because I didn't perfect the design for ripping and it takes some time to set it up.  Ripping a large panel with another saw is often just an easier choice because there's often stuff in my cluttered shop making it hard to use the panel saw. 
 
OK. So Far:

No RAS
Get the vac (dammit), +/- some additional suction gubbins.
Consider a sawstop PCS (still interested to hear from anyone with a CMS... or perhaps it's so poor that no-one uses one?)
ETS EC sander to start with.

I'll look into the Metabo/Norse - not sure if they're available here in the sticks.

Thank you all for your replies
 
Birdhunter said:
I'm a fan of the Sawstop cabinet saw as I own the 3HP Industrial model (largest model). However, a high volume dust system is required. I don't think a shop vac has enough "suck" to work very well with the big saw. The hydraulic base makes the saw highly portable. The over arm blade guard/dust collector is a very worthwhile addition.

But a CT26 with long life bag has enough "suck" to clean out the mountain of dust collected in the bottom of the saw!  [smile]
 
Bob D. said:
If I was starting over I would not buy a RAS with the current selection of tools available. I've had my RAS for over 30 years and it's been upgraded and tamed with better, safer guards so it's not the monster forearm and finger gobbling machine that it first was.

I started over by ditching my 40+ year old DeWalt RAS and replacing it with a TS55. Quite possible the best move I ever made (tool wise). From time to time I find myself wishing I had a tablesaw - but only for a moment, I have better uses for the space.
 
If the budget is big how about a Mafell Erika 85 for a table saw? Then a TS55 track saw for breaking sheet goods down with a long rail and a shorter rail.

I have a portable Bosch 4100 table saw and just upgraded to a TS-75 with the CMS TS-75 module. I will continue to use the TS-55 for sheet goods and on the MFT/3 table. Don't want to afford an Erika, but if the budget was bigger...Well I'd probably buy a Mafell track saw for that matter too.
 
Bernmc said:
Consider a sawstop PCS (still interested to hear from anyone with a CMS... or perhaps it's so poor that no-one uses one?)
I will say at the outset that I haven't used a CMS.

The overwhelming advice here - which I agree with - is a SawStop PCS or ICS.  To my mind it is leagues ahead of the CMS.  Consider - if you're obsessed with accuracy that you can put an Incra fence on it (I actually bought my SawStop PCS from Carbatec and they were happy to sell one with no fence, as I already knew I was putting an Incra system on it).  Get the SawStop (not third party!) mobile base, it's awesome.  You can just about put the saw across the floor with one hand.

Like others here, the ETS EC is an incredible sander.  I have the 3mm model, and am very happy with it teamed up with a Festool CT36.  You can get a deal usually by getting the vac and a track saw at the same time - at least, we can here in Aus (and I see you're based here, hence why I'm chiming in with this type of info).  Whilst talking about track saws, get a TS55, they're a nice bit of kit.

Pro tip for you - if you have *any* idea that you might *ever* get an LR-32 system, make sure you buy ALL your rails as "Holey" rails (a.k.a. ones for the LR32 system).  They work perfectly well with every router and track saw, and they'll instantly be usable when you get the LR32.

Personally, the Kapex 120 was a spur-of-the-moment choice for me, I had been thinking about the Kapex 60.  Then I found out that the 60 has a shadow, the 120 has the laser guide.  Until you've used it (if you can, do test it!), you don't know what you're missing, they're incredibly useful.  So glad I went the 120 personally, though the 60 would be a capable choice.

I hope too I'm not breaking any rules here - mods forgive me if I do!  There is an Australian based woodworking forum: www.woodworkforums.com - I'd encourage you to come for a visit, there are many knowledgeable folks there with much good information for you as well :)
 
Welcome to the forum Bernmc.  I can't be really sure of the disparity between domestic & alien Festool pricing, as it's been some time since I've needed to actually purchase anything Festool.  One of the reasons for no longer requiring their product is this precise pricing disparity, accompanied with their - illegal for any other trader in Australia - resale price maintenance dispensation from corporate prosecution.

Typically I've found in the past that there's a 200-300% price premium for buying locally.  Sourcing alternative offshore sources can typically halve the overall purchase price, inclusive of postage/freight charges.  Nevertheless it pays to be reticent & choosy about the means & source of purchase, as some tax-evasive traders may actually charge you "local" VAT/MWST/Sales Tax despite the product/s being exported to a non-EU tax regime. I suspect many may be filling in the requisite export exemption paperwork & actually pocketing the taxation themselves!

As you appear h e l l-bent on purchasing a particular brand, I shall not otherwise attempt to dissuade you.  Nevertheless it would be remiss if I didn't recommend alternative products, even if only for perusal & comparison purposes.  There's some fabulous product out there at a variety of quality levels & price points.

Festool make generally excellent sanders with only a few exceptions.  If you're after a sander, then you can def. do worse than a Festool.  As for the rest... well I'm not personally convinced.  Having used their product/s since about '83 I'd summarise their products as being high-end DIY & workshop-grade tools.  I personally feel they are a bit too expensive, a bit too lightly built & maybe a bit insufficiently robust for site work.  But as a hobby-tool, which appears to be your own specific requirement, there's probably little better. 

Leave the heavy duty, robust & occasionally crude Hikoki & Makita to the professionals & site carpenters.  There's some brilliant, potentially market segment defining tools in the pipeline (the impending release of a 7 1/4" high-precision ac/dc/multivolt SCMS from Hikoki is a case in point).  Professionals generally require tools that perform hard & fast in marginal & hostile environments, where robustness is paramount & precision more marginal. Likewise extreme-duty tools the likes of Metabo. Mafell, Hilti, Flex or Eibenstock are best avoided, despite having (arguably) the world's best battery interface if not choice of (multi-branded) Cordless Alliance dc tools.  Festool unfortunately only offers a relatively abysmal selection of battery tools, sporting levels of technology that are about 2-5 years out-of-date.

Festool's tracksaw system is hampered with a clumsy and second-rate track system that has been far surpassed by its competitor.  The saws themselves are OK, perhaps tending toward gutlessness when forced to cope with Oz hardwoods.  They're by no means unique in this, either.  Even Mafell, Metabo & the big Asian brand's finest battery saws struggle to cope in hardwood.

You're tending towards a Rotex sander.  It's a big, powerful, heavy tool that copes well with virtually all contingencies.  Personally, for me, I liked my big RO150E.  Nevertheless I sold it as I found it was getting to be too big, heavy & tiring in use (I'm not as strong as I once was).  A Mirka or one of its plethora of clones is less than half the weight; about 1000g compared to about 2500g, (anecdotally) equally as powerful, much, much smoother & ergonomic in operation and a whole quantum more efficient in use than my Rotex ever was.  My RO90 was a horrible tool.  Avoid at all costs.

You're from "NSW".  A big state! How near or far are your local sales & service agents?  This will become really important, as you require consumables, parts or repair.  Remember that as you've already mentioned Festool tends to use expensive, hard-to-obtain consumable formats.  The size, number & arrangement of hole punching in sandpapers, blade sizes etc.  It's not a matter of dropping into your local hardware or Bunnings during your lunchtime for some sandpaper.  I'm from Tas, & my last Festool sandpaper order (run-of-the-mill stuff, nothing fancy or exotic) took over THREE MONTHS to arrive at my local store, who had "forgotten" my order & put it all in stock!  They (Festool Oz) sacked my local tool repairer.  Somebody I've known, befriended & trusted for some 40 years or so.  Now my repairs require 2-way shipping!  Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!

Maybe you're in a better situation.  Maybe you have a capable, accessible and competent local dealer network.  I no longer do, so I now avoid all new product like the plague!  If I can't get alternative Sia, Mirka, Klingspor, Hermes, 3M or Flexovit premium quality abrasives much quicker, reliably & for a mere fraction of the price, then I'm just not interested.  Believe me, it matters.  Perhaps even more than any perceived intrinsic benefits or deficiencies of the tools themselves.
 
Sawstop jobsite saw stinks. The fence system is horrible. If you want a jobsite saw get a Bosch or Dewalt, or pickup a track saw with MFT table.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
l0pht said:
Sawstop jobsite saw stinks. The fence system is horrible.
What's the problem with it (apart from being an american style fence that dosn't stop at the beginning of the blade)?
 
Back
Top