Options to hang a wall hanging (quilt)

[Rick Herrick]

My wife is finishing up a quilt that we plan to hang on the wall.  I am looking for options on to do that.  We can put various sizes of rod pockets on the back.  The quilt is 48" x 48".  I found one option I like where you have two pieces of flat stock (~ 3/4" x 4" by 52", with a groove routed into both mating pieces.  Maybe a 3/8" rod sewn into the quilt and then lay that into the routed groove.  This would be about 1/3 of the distance from the bottom.  Thinking these two pieces of stock with be 3-4" tall.  The top 2/3 I could maybe put some bushings in the back piece and a nice threaded knob on the outside to snug up the 2 pieces to hold the quilt. 

Its hard to come up with something without strings and old rod hanging brackets.  I want it as minimalist as possible and not have to glue, staple or put a hole in the material.

Any thoughts, pictures out there ? 

Thanks.

 

[squall_line]

My mother quilts between duathlons and teaching sewing classes.  I think most of the quilts in my parents' house are hung with a pair or trio of small wooden clamps with brass screws.  I'm sure my dad hung 'em, I can find out what they used, but it's quite minimalist.

They look similar to this, but I know hers are pine to go with the farmhouse aesthetic:
https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Quilt-Hang-Ups-Clamps-Clips/dp/B000QV5C1K/

I think she has one or two blind/floating hangers as well, likely with rod pockets, I just never paid too close of attention.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thanks [member=75217]squall_line[/member] .  This is perfect.  I use Amazon daily (more than I should) but never thought to look there for this item.  Was looking all over Pinterest for ideas instead.  This, or some modification of it, will be great.  Thanks again.

 

[Packard]

I used to be a picture framer.  You do not want wood in direct contact with any artwork, but especially with fabric. 

I have taken apart framed needlework that was stretched over a piece of plywood.  Where the fabric met the edges of the wood the fibers were disintegrating.  I had to couch the art onto a piece of linen and then stretch it as best I could.

("Couching" is hand stitching to a backing fabric.)

Your wife obviously has some sewing skills.  I would have her sew a long sleeve on the back of the art that you could slip the wood slat into.  Then hang the slat onto the wall.  Coat the wood with shellac to protect the fabric from the lignans and tannins.

She should probably make a second sleeve near the bottom so that the piece will hang flat. 

She should launder the linen (real linen, not looks-like-linen) and use a second rinse.  They treat the fabric with "sizing" and that is of unknown composition.  Linen (clean) will not harm the art. 

My mother was a master of needlework and a member of the Embroiders Guild of America.  She and her cohorts kept me way too busy framing needlework (a specialized area of framing).  I believe I was the only framer on Long Island still hand lacing needlepoint.

Your wife might be interested in joining that Guild.
https://egausa.org/

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thank you for those tips.  I had to read it twice and then hand off to my wife as she understood it much better.  She has plenty of real linen so we will add that.  Mostly I have used MinWax spray poly on my cabinets and other pieces for her sewing room but I want to make, whatever I make, in walnut.  This will hang in the living room, not her work area.  What are good shellac options?  I was planning for all my future, hardwood only, projects would be finished with simple danish/Tung Oil types of finishes.  But I can see where those would not work here so just looking for a brand or type of shellac that would be good here.

 

[Packard]

The shellac is inert and really is only required where there will be constant contact with the wood.  Poly might be OK, but the convention was to use items that had a long history of being non-damaging to the art. 

So you will see traditional framers using rice paste and rice paper to hang original art to mounting boards.  There are more modern alternatives that are easier to use.  But the rice paste and rice paper has been proven to be inert over more than a thousand years.  The modern alternatives are projected to last a long time without damage.  But there is nothing like proof. 

If it were me, I would use my regular finish on the cabinets and just make sure that the bottom-most piece was something that was expendable--a piece of fabric that you do not care about.

As long as your hanging wood is attached to a removable sleeve the original are will be protected.  Quilts often survive for over 100 years, so it is nice to take these precautions. 

Also do not display the quilt where it will receive direct sunlight.  The UV rays can fade the dyes.  And avoid fluorescent and cfl lighting as they put out UV rays too. 

I also would not hang it over a fireplace. [eek]

I do think that any shellac would be inert.  "Candy glazing" (the stuff that makes M & Ms shiny) is just shellac.  Shellac (after it has dried) is edible.  Except that it does not wear well, it is a very nice finish.  Dries fast, looks good, child-safe. 

 

[rvieceli]

Packard has given you excellent advice. Just to reinforce. The linen is a real sleeve and totally encloses the hanging rod. Many folks cheat and just sew a strip across the back. That leaves the wood touching the art work on the front.

Ron