Order of Purchasing Kit: Kitchen Fitting First, Wardrobes/Alcoves/Shelves Later

[jiffff]

Would be grateful for some advice on what order I might most effectively buy things in given that I need to fit a kitchen in three weeks time; and later this year need to build some alcove units, TV unit, and floor to ceiling bookcase/sideboard.

Current tools: Evolution Rage chop saw (never quite had it cutting square), electric drill, and a bunch everyday hand tools - hammers, screwdrivers, etc.

I've got about 2k that I could spend on tools now, in advance of my kitchen installation. Grateful for advice on:

- What Festool stuff is most useful/essential when doing kitchen fitting tasks.
- What the logical order might be in building up my set given that I expect to tackle things in the following order: kitchen, bookshelves, TV unit, alcove units, wardrobes.

I've watched quite a lot of Peter Millard videos on youtube and see myself making that *sort* of stuff. I've thought about getting:
TS 55, CTL 26, MFT/3, Festool ETS 150/3, Festool DF 500 (or maybe the bigger one), a router model TBD. I'll need to be semi-portable and working outdoors (at home) so will need some extensions for in/out feed on the MFT of some sort, and something to act as a router table at some point too.

I hadn't thought about buying a Kapex, albeit my Rage Evolution is a bit wonky - at least how I've set it up, I might get rid of it. I'm thinking I might need a jigsaw to cut any scribed cuts.

My kitchen is being delivered with the main units already assembled, so most of the *work* will be around cutting plinth, kickboard, cornice, pelmet, filler panel. Most of which will be square, but potentially some scribing and less straight cutting. Also making holes in the rear of units for pipes/cables etc.

The most obvious thing that springs to mind is whether a MFT/TS55 will be up to the job of cutting pelmet/cornice for the kitchen sufficiently accurately enough for a good fit. This feels like a bit more of a Kapex job.

So cutting to the chase, I'm thinking of getting the following - as they would seem central and all needed together:
TS55 - £389
CTL 26 - £479
MFT3 - £635

Then:
ETS 150/3 - £379
Carvex PS420 - £299

The above basically blows my current budget, so finding out I need to but an extra *thing* half way through my kitchen could be painful, so I might stick with hand sanding the end of my cuts and deferring the ETS. Edit: That might be essential as have overlooked some longer rails too for the TS55.

Then once the kitchen is done and I've saved up some more and want to get going on the bookselves:

Domino
Router (maybe with table)
Extension arms for MFT

Grateful for any advice.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Cross cut miter saw, router, jigsaw, drill/drivers are all very handy for kitchen fitting.

 

[stickman]

TS55 - £389
CTL 26 - £479
MFT3 - £635

Then:
ETS 150/3 - £379

That is a pretty solid list but I think I would get a RO-90 rather than the ETS since you get the same 3mm action as the ETS in RO mode but you also get the aggressive Rotex mode AND the delta detail head. After I had those I would get a router (I have the 1400 and it's awesome)

(BTW, I own all of the tools on your list and do not regret any of the purchases at all. Cheers.)

Sorry, one last note: The Dominos are AMAZING (I have and use both) but for cabinetry that are a "nice to have" not a "must-have". If you start building with solid wood then they are unbelievable in streamlining joinery.

 

[jiffff]

Thanks for the replies!

Cross cut miter saw, router, jigsaw, drill/drivers are all very handy for kitchen fitting.

The mitres I expect to be cutting will be the undershelf pelmet corners for two wall mounted cabinets, and maybe some more pelmet to help box in the fridge. I *think* those will be the only mitre cuts in the kitchen install so was hoping that some careful cutting with the MFT3/TS55 would see me through. A mistake do you think?

As for the router, my worktop is stone as is being fitted by the supplier. Given I won't be routing a worktop, are there any other areas in a typical kitchen fit that benefit from a router?

TS55 - £389
CTL 26 - £479
MFT3 - £635

Then:
ETS 150/3 - £379

That is a pretty solid list but I think I would get a RO-90 rather than the ETS since you get the same 3mm action as the ETS in RO mode but you also get the aggressive Rotex mode AND the delta detail head. After I had those I would get a router (I have the 1400 and it's awesome)

Whats your setup with your 1400? Do you have it mounted in a table? Rails? Handheld?

I've just had a look at the RO-90. I was thinking about something with a 150mm head as I've got so many bit of furniture with large shelves/sides to sand. The ETS-150/3 seemed good for that if I was in the business of only having one sander. I suppose I could go for the RO-150 but it bumps the cost up a lot.

Thanks again.

 

[ss]

If it's important to you, I believe that while the RO150 has the option of the delta head, the RO90 does not.

I love my ETS EC150/3, not least because it's very light and easy to use. I suspect it will be a gateway drug for me to other sanders.

Out of interest, why the CTL26 rather than the MIDI? I have the MIDI and haven't been disappointed with it by any stretch.

 

[ss]

Also, I don't have an MFT (yet!), but looking at the price you quote, are you looking at the fully loaded option? I remember seeing a post recently suggesting to go with the basic option and use dogs. I don't know enough to say whether that's a good plan or not, but it might help with the funding!

 

[stickman]

the RO150 has the option of the delta head, the RO90 does not.

It’s the other way around. The 90 comes with a delta head attachment but the 150 does not have a delta option (I have both). The other significant difference s that the 150 has a 5mm stroke in RO mode and the 90 has a 3mm stroke which is a much nicer finish.

 

[grobkuschelig]

What @stickman said! [emoji1303]

 

[stickman]

Whats your setup with your 1400? Do you have it mounted in a table? Rails? Handheld?

I use the 1400 handheld (I have the edge guides too) and also have a router table for trickier stuff. Also have a Hammer C3-31 on the way which has a shaper. Looking forward to that. I’ll probably sell the router table.

 

[Sanderxpander]

I may not understand how you guys "fit" a kitchen over there but I can't really think of a good use for a router or a sander. Over here, at most you'd have to cut out an opening in your worktop but usually even that comes pre-cut from the factory based on whatever cooktop hardware you pick. "Fitting" then means cutting the filler pieces to the sides and possibly between cabinets, and doing the baseboards. An MFT and a TS55 sound great. You don't even really need the MFT but it's nice and makes things easier. You may need to do curved cuts/scribe walls. You'd need a decent jigsaw so if you're planning to get one anyway you should consider the Mafell P1cc. Overkill but it's a buy once and be set. If you're already considering Festool it's not a huge price increase. Accurate miters are probably tricky with that, considering you can't use an MFT and dogs like with a plunge saw.

 

[Lincoln]

For kitchen, and general joinery/cabinet installation, a decent power planer is a must.

 

[jeffm13]

Actually, I think your list looks pretty good.  The track saw will cut miters just fine, and is a better first purchase IMHO.  The Carvex will make scribing possible. It's good that you have dust extraction on your initial list, and the 26 is just fine, a bit more expensive than the Midi, but at least you have the option of adding the boom arm later if you decide you want it. The MFT will simplify things in terms of work-holding, but I'd add some dogs and clamps to make sure you've got things square and secure, and maybe a longer track (if you find you need it). A good square, from either Woodpecker or TSO is a must.

For a sander, the 150/3 will be fine for finish work, but I personally like the ETS EC 150/5 which does fine with both lower and higher grits.  You can always add a finish sander later if you decide you need it. And I think the ETS EC series is worth the extra money. But that's just my opinion.  I stayed away from the RO90, waiting until I really need it for something other than finish work. Mainly because I prefer using one hand to sand. I do most of my sanding with the 150/5.

Later on, you'll probably want to add a domino 500, an OF-1400 router, and the LR32 for the bookshelves (there goes another $2k).  But I think you're pretty close with your original list. At least for the initial job.

 

[jiffff]

Thanks again for all the replies.

Cross cut miter saw, router, jigsaw, drill/drivers are all very handy for kitchen fitting.

Because are still mid-renovation, my little garden shed is full floor to ceiling. Somewhere inside is my compound mitre slide saw. I might have another go are tuning it to cut more accurately, but saving that - has anyone had any luck cutting decent bevels with the MFT? On paper, I should only have 90 degree corners to turn, so standard 45 degree bevel cuts. The pelmet and cornice is a sort of "L" profile in shape.

I may not understand how you guys "fit" a kitchen over there but I can't really think of a good use for a router or a sander. Over here, at most you'd have to cut out an opening in your worktop but usually even that comes pre-cut from the factory based on whatever cooktop hardware you pick. "Fitting" then means cutting the filler pieces to the sides and possibly between cabinets, and doing the baseboards. An MFT and a TS55 sound great. You don't even really need the MFT but it's nice and makes things easier. You may need to do curved cuts/scribe walls. You'd need a decent jigsaw so if you're planning to get one anyway you should consider the Mafell P1cc. Overkill but it's a buy once and be set. If you're already considering Festool it's not a huge price increase. Accurate miters are probably tricky with that, considering you can't use an MFT and dogs like with a plunge saw.

This kitchen (I hope at least) is about as easy as it gets in terms of fitting. The units are all delivered constructed, so it should be a case of levelling them, screwing them together/to the wall, then adding the pelmets/cornice/end panels/filler panels. I don't *think* I'm going to need a router - but I will definitely need one for my bookcase project as I was to route channels for LED lighting.

Regarding the jifsaw and the Mafell option - I've just done a quick search and seen its been a hot topic of discussion on FOG over the years. At the risk of getting into that, I'm sort of minded to keep with the Carvex on the basis of shared dust hose / power cable. I'm going to be really limited with space in my long-term work/storage area. But again, I'll keep reading and might change my mind...

I see the Carvex can work on the rails system. Is there any reason to use a jigsaw on a rail if you've got a TS55 on a rail?

Actually, I think your list looks pretty good.  The track saw will cut miters just fine, and is a better first purchase IMHO.  The jigsaw will make scribing possible. It's good that you have dust extraction on your initial list. The MFT will simplify things in terms of work-holding, but I'd add some dogs and clamps to make sure you've got things square and secure.

Thanks, are you thinking clamps for use with the MFT itself? (If so, the Festool quick release jobbies?) Or were you thinking clamps more generally. I am currently clampless and I guess I will need quite a few large ones given the stuff I want to be making.

 

[jeffm13]

Thanks, are you thinking clamps for use with the MFT itself? (If so, the Festool quick release jobbies?) Or were you thinking clamps more generally. I am currently clampless and I guess I will need quite a few large ones given the stuff I want to be making.

I just edited my reply as you replied... 

For clamps, I think you'll initially need a couple of the Festool quick clamps, and maybe a pair of the clamping elements.  For dogs, you could go with Bench Dogs, Qwas Dogs, Parf Dogs.  They all do the same thing, and give you any number of ways to hold work steady while you route, cut, sand, or do whatever to it.

Larger clamps like Bessey's will be necessary later when you start assembling cabinets or other casework.  You could always start with some cheaper "quick clamps" to get you started. You'll probably need a few when you're trying to hold things steady while you install the cabinets.

 

[sancho57]

Festool is a system. The foundation of the system is a MFT, TS 55/75 and a CT. All else is  personal preferance to fine tune to what your ww preferances are.

 

[ScotF]

Good first set of tools. You can cut accurately with an MFT and angles too. You might need a 2700 or 3000 rail for sheet goods. A 1900 is easier for cross cutting panels, but the 1400 works fine...just not as much room before and after the cut.

I think the MFT, saw and extractor is a great starting point. Don't forget all the accessories that can eat up money...blades for the TS (comes with great blade for sheet goods, but if ripping wood with your TS you will want one with fewer teeth). Then there are clamps, extra vacuum bags, maybe bigger hose for better extraction and the list goes on. Rarely do you just buy the tool and are done. Sanders need sandpaper and you can easily spend double the price of the sander getting all the initial grits. The Domino needs Dominos and different cutters for the Dominos. This is not to dissuade you, but to let you know all the other things to consider in your initial purchase.

 

[NL-mikkla]

Don't forget the CXS which is great for installing kitchens.

As an option you could have a look at the centrotec installers kit which has all the little bits and drill you can possibly need.
While very pricy I find it very conveniant to have on hand with every install I do.

Both are a great investment for future projects

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I guess after reading this thread again, it’s not so much country or location that would determine which tools take presidence when fitting a kitchen. It’s more about which materials the kitchen will feature?

In the U.K. worktops for example, might be marble, granite, hardwood staves, laminated chipboard, corian, ceramic, quartz, polished concrete, glass and stainless steel are a good few that come to mind. So different tools and methods are required.

I have built a few kitchens from scratch, making the cabinets and doors to a bespoke spec, where not only my routers were used but, my spindle moulder was doing overtime!

With those type of applications, a router, jigsaw, miter saw and planer would be essential tools.
Many pre-fab kitchens can be installed with very few tools if the supplier has done things their end properly.

I have a good friend who runs a bespoke kitchen company. His wife designs the kitchens, all bespoke and one offs, and he builds them. He makes everything too, the carcases, the frames, doors and drawers, and some of the timber worktops. It’s been a very lucrative business for them.

Out of interest, as I’ve not been accross the pond for a while, are the options for U.S. kitchen endless like over here? The contemporary look is very fashionable here now, and has been for many years.

Going back to what tools you need to buy first, after reading the thread now it’s expanded more, I’d say play it by ear. Buy what you actually need to get the job done.
I have a lot of tools that are used professionally, much of my stuff earns it’s keep by being used daily but, I have an awful lot of kit that doesn’t see daylight for months or more.
Sure, it’s there when I need it, as I never hire or borrow tools but, I much prefer seeing the tools I buy being used, not sitting in a cupboard. So a bit of thought is needed when buying.
The list of tools you mentioned in your first post, would cover many situations and would be invaluable for many projects, providing you do actually use them.

The MFT/3’s are great, I have two now and love them however, I also have the Parf Guide System mk2, which has turned out to be one of the best purchases I’ve made in a long time. I make my own tops for the MFT/3’s, plus larger tops and cutting stations. The kit opens up a lot of options and opportunities. So, you could make a saving, by making your own MFT, and use the saving towards another essential tool?

Whatever you choose, I hope all goes well. [thumbs up]

 

[HowardH]

Out of interest, as I’ve not been accross the pond for a while, are the options for U.S. kitchen endless like over here? The contemporary look is very fashionable here now, and has been for many years.

More than you could ever imagine.  No matter how much money you have, you can be separated from it doing a kitchen.  I know. We spend $80,000 on ours with all the latest appliances.  [eek]

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

More than you could ever imagine.  No matter how much money you have, you can be separated from it doing a kitchen.  I know. We spend $80,000 on ours with all the latest appliances.  [eek]

Ouch! Same scenario as here then. A few weeks back I went to quote a job, and the client had recently had a kitchen built in Germany installed, the cost which covered only some of the appliances, and no worktops or installation fee came to £132,000 the architect informed me.
Now, it was a fabulous kitchen but, I’ve seen better and at a quarter of the price.
Over here now, we have what are termed as “family rooms” they are basically a very large high tech kitchen and lounge area combined.
Usually finished with bi folding doors and roof lights or lanterns. Very popular now, and they add big value to property prices. Quality and costings are sometimes worlds apart though.