Oscillating multi tools - do blades really wear out so fast?

[Deke]

I bought a Dewalt oscillating multitool this past weekend, and used it to cut out about 6" of baseboard trim (vertically, from floor to top of the trim). I took my time, didn't push it/force it, but was kind of shocked the stock blade was pretty much toast after this one cut. Is that normal? Are there specific brands of blades that are of good quality (and worth the corresponding price). I do like the tool itself - no complaints there. I'm just a homeowner, so cost of blades won't kill me, but I figure some of you pros out there have found a way to keep the blades running and costs down.

 

[ear3]

That sounds a bit too quick even for an off-brand blade to wear out.  Is it possible you were hitting the drywall/plaster behind the trim, which will normally dull a wood or multipurpose blade pretty quickly?

Also, blade wear is accelerated when you start burning/smoking the material, which will happen if you're not creating enough movement on the cut for the sawdust to escape.

 

[tjbnwi]

Slow the speed of the tool down.

Tom

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Slow speed down a bit and don't force the machine, let the blade work. Have a little glass of water nearby to cool the blade if you have a lot of cutting to do in one go. On the Fein Wood/Metal blades they used to have stickers saying Max 4 Speed setting or something like that. I have my Fein mostly at speed 4 and the blades last quite long. When they are dulling out I keep them for cut outs in plaster where they hold up for a very long time.

I did use another brand - Imperial??! - and they were really good on cutting down nails and such and lasted a very long time for "mixed materials" work.

 

[Deke]

Ah, okay I was almost certainly cutting too fast and there was plaster-lather behind it. I'll be smarter. Gee, there was this thing called a manual in the box...  [smile]

 

[tjbnwi]

Helps to rock the tool a little also.

Tom

 

[w802h]

When I cut plaster with a multitool, I use an abrasive blade designed for plaster or concrete.  Plaster wears blades hard!  I use a spent wood blade for sheetrock.  The substrate matters a lot.

 

[kevinculle]

Bosch makes a multitool blade for woodcutting that is a carbide toothed section (not grit like a tile blade) that is brazed to a steel blade.  It costs a bit more but lasts much longer than the typical blades. The P/N is OSC134.

 

[antss]

How many teeth per inch does that stock blade have ?

I've found that small teeth and numerous TPI blades don't work all that well in dense woods , especially MDF baseboard.  Old oak flooring will wear out just about any blade you throw at it too.  I have better luck with Japanese saw type blades.

I concur that slowing the speed down helps in many cases.  I've also had good luck with Bosch's blades in terns of wear.

 

[DB10]

Try using Bi-Metal Blades, they cost a bit more but if you hit a nail or screw it doesn't wreck the blade and they keep there edge a lot longer.

 

[Laminator]

The bosch carbide blades are well worth the money. They will far outlast hss (bimetal) blades in wood and metal. They will even handle hardened steel screws if the need arises.

 

[Naildrivingman]

Try using Bi-Metal Blades, they cost a bit more but if you hit a nail or screw it doesn't wreck the blade and they keep there edge a lot longer.

I second the Bosch for general cutting of unknown internal composition.  For fast and clean cutting of wood I have used Imperial hardwood blades.  They are similar to Japanese teeth, but not as fragile.

 

[Deke]

Sorry for the late reply, but thanks to all. Bosch bimetal it is and I will take care with the plaster!

 

[Rosco]

In my experience they are all pretty pathetic.

I've tried the expensive blades and the cheap. Hardly any difference. They are a rip off.

At the end of the day this tool is fantastic at getting you out of tight spots. As a result they are used in all sorts of applications. The blades should therefore be up to the task also,  with this reflected in the price.

£13 for a Bosch single wood/metal blade that can sometimes,  be toast after a single use?...jog on!

 

[JimD]

I have a set of bosch blades, a Fein bi-metallic that came with my best oscillating tool, and multiple cheap ones.  The Bosch carbide is much different than the bi-metallic Bosch and Fein.  It goes through nails fine and is holding up well.  The bi-metallic is probably better if you hit a nail than a wood blade but they do not hold up anything like the carbide.  But the carbide is shorter and I hesitate to use it as an all around blade.  I might have mis-used the Bosch bi-metallic but it seemed to dull and start to burn the wood quickly.  I think the Fein is holding up better. 

None of them are worth what they cost - except when you need the tool, you need a blade too.  Seems like somebody could make a bunch of money offering similar blades at a lower price. 

 

[harry_]

In my experience they are all pretty pathetic.

I've tried the expensive blades and the cheap. Hardly any difference. They are a rip off.

At the end of the day this tool is fantastic at getting you out of tight spots. As a result they are used in all sorts of applications. The blades should therefore be up to the task also,  with this reflected in the price.

£13 for a Bosch single wood/metal blade that can sometimes,  be toast after a single use?...jog on!

I use both chinese and Festool blades in my Vecturo. Chinese for "demo" work or where nails are suspect. Festool blades for when I need to actually care about the quality of cut. I also roll with the presumption that if I have to use that tool it's going to cost me $10 (averaged).

 

[Cheese]

I'll use Japanese style blades for installing hardwood floors. The have a small kerf and cut very cleanly. Perfect for weaving in new floor boards.

I also use Bosch Carbide toothed blades for plaster and they are the cat's meow...way better than anything else out there.

 

[epicxt]

Try the Falx blades from Canada. The ones I've tried have been superb, although plaster will do a number on most blades.