OSMO Polyx Oil Finish - Anyone use it?

deepcreek

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Has anyone used this finish for furniture?  I know it's primarily used for flooring in Europe.

I'd really appreciate any feedback you could share.

Tips & tricks?

Where to find in the United States?

Thanks!
 
I have used Osmo Polyx on a Grandfather Clock I built some 8 years ago for a customer, pre Festool days,  when last seen it still looks great. The Clock case was built of Ash.
I still find it available on Amazon

Strangely I never used it again, have no clue why hmmm....,probably because since then I work with Cherry and Walnut a lot and now use Watco Products on that.
I liked it a lot on the Ash Clock Cabinet

Hope this helped some
Sal
 
I used it recently on our kitchen table, which is white oak.  It's very easy to apply.  However, I find it very soft and scratches very easily.  If I had to do it again, I'd probably use Waterlox or something I have not tried yet.
 
amt said:
I used it recently on our kitchen table, which is white oak.  It's very easy to apply.  However, I find it very soft and scratches very easily.  If I had to do it again, I'd probably use Waterlox or something I have not tried yet.

I'm surprised to see your comment about scratching.

As I understand it, their oil finish penetrates the wood pores rather than just sitting on the surface.

Did the wood itself scratch or just the finish?
 
Justed used the top oil for the first time yesterday, I fell in love with how easy it is to apply. Second coat went on this AM and I am applying the 3rd later today.

I found it on Amazon from a 3rd party. $38 shipped for a half liter. I will get 3 coats on a 28" by 90" worktop and have 30%+ left over.

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RMW
 

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I've used it on an oak and Brazilian cherry floor and also on cvg fir and birch ply in some staterooms on a tugboat recently.

Another product to check out is Vermont Natural Coatings floor/furniture finish. Using it on the current project on oak and walnut and it applies with the same ease of the Polyx with similar seeming results.
 
I use the Osmo oil quite a bit.  I find the best results is to apply, let it sit for 10 to 15 mins then wipe off the excess.  One of the nicest finishes i have seen.
Always dispose of the oily rags properly though due to the spontanious combustion risk.  I put mine in the workshop wood burner.
 
After much time messing around with all sorts of oil finishes, Osmo is the winner for me, and many others I know.
Great product. I also like pure tung oil from Real Milk Paint Co.
The Vermont mentioned above one sounds very interesting too.
 
You can find it at Green Depot, and elsewhere. Btw my use of this stuff is 90% cabinetry/furniture. Its goes way beyond floor applications.
 
I have used it on floors, cabinets and table tops and love it! It is essential to apply thinly, I use a white scotch brite and work it in vigorously, then wipe of the excess. Over application will cause excess to sit on the surface and this is what scratches, it becomes ineffective when you over apply. Two coats applied correctly is enough, on rare occasions a third coat maybe required.
 
Osmo does seem to be as proud of their products as Festool.

I just got this quote from the only supplier in Texas who is three hours away from me in Austin.  I had spoken to the owner and explained that I have a furniture making business and would be buying a lot more if it works as advertised.

(1) .75L Polyx 3054 Clear Satin - $44.95
Shipping - $15.00
Total - $59.95

I get the feeling they are not doing me any favors since their website listed the product for $39.95.

For that shipping charge alone, I can probably have it delivered from anywhere in the continental U.S.

I saw someone mention Amazon having it from a secondary seller.  Can anyone else recommend a good source?
 
I see a lot of replies to the post.  First let me disclose that my company is the one selling it on Amazon as well as our own web site.  (prefer you use our site instead of Amazon)  I not only sell this stuff but use it in our shop and while biased I cannot say enough good about it.  I saw someone post that they were going to apply a 3rd coat.  Stop - don't do it.  You really only wantr two coats.  Two thin coats will seal the wood and provide the protection needed.  If the product is overapplied you end up with something like candle (actually carnauba) wax built up on top of the surface which is not what you want.  The polyx 3054 hardwax oil is the product unless your looking for food grade which would be the Top Oil 3058.  I also see someone mention using it on walnut.  Whenever I apply to walnut, Brazilian cherry, heart pine or any resinous wood I would suggest first doing a wipedown with mineral spirits to cut the top layer of resin so the OMSO can be absorbed.  Now someone mentioned they didn't like it because it scratched too easily.  This is not a top coat so it cannot scratch.  When someone (never me) does scratch a finished item, you can either just reply that area or if needed, sand and then reapply.  It's that easy.  OSMO also makes quite a few colors which can be mixed with each other to get the exact color your looking for or if the color is too intense the color can be cut with the clear 3054 to lessen the color.  Again, two coats only.  First one could be color and the second would always be clear, or just two coats of clear.  I also just received our first shipment of earth pigments that can be added to the clear to create interesting finishes.  Can't wait to play with them:-)  If anybody is doing large slab tops there is a great tool by OMSO called the Double Blade Scraper.  Very cool tool and unlike brushes or rags, can be cleaned up and used over and over again.  Here is link to a youtube for that tool as well as the 3054 finish. 



Please feel to call me if you have any technical questions 302-737-1441
Reid
 
Reid-

A couple of quick questions...

Is the clear a really good clean clear without any tint? Does it stay clear without yellowing as it ages?

Thanks.
 
italkgreen said:
  I saw someone post that they were going to apply a 3rd coat.  Stop - don't do it.  You really only wantr two coats.  Two thin coats will seal the wood and provide the protection needed.  If the product is overapplied you end up with something like candle (actually carnauba) wax built up on top of the surface which is not what you want. 

Too late... that's what I get for reading the directions.  [doh]

Wish I had known about the scraper trick sooner, the only gripe I have is it did not fill the grain as well as I hoped. Definitely operator error.

I plan to use Osmo whenever possible, finally found a finish worthy of my skill level - squirt/spread/wipe off.

RMW
 
rvieceli said:
Reid-

A couple of quick questions...

Is the clear a really good clean clear without any tint? Does it stay clear without yellowing as it ages?

Thanks.

I would have to say that you do get a "really good clean clear without any tint" finish but that really is a subjective description - for that matter, if you put water on a piece of wood it changes the color so it's really my opinion but I truly do see this as a clear, no tint finish.  Now to yellowing - This product will not yellow at all.  There is no UV protection in the clear hardwax 3054 so mother nature (the sun) will change the color of the wood over time but not the finish.  OSMO does make a UV clear but it's mostly for outdoor use and has no wax in it. 
 
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