Overhang rule of thumb for guide rails?

wilburpan

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Apr 22, 2010
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I've been using my new TS55/CT22 and just loving it.  The first thing I've been working on has a number of smaller boards that I need to make, and although I've been able to do it with the 55" guide rail, it's way larger than I need for these cuts.  I'm thinking about getting a 32" or 42" guide rail.

What I'd like to know is, is there a rule of thumb for the amount of overhang that a guide rail needs to have to work with a board?  Such as, you need 6" on the front side and 1" on the back side?
 
On the infeed side, you want to be able to plunge your saw to the appropriate cutting depth, without hitting the wood, and having both guides on the saw engaged with the  rail.  On the outfeed side, it can be a little less, but both saw guides should be engaged after the cut is completed.  If you do have to shorten the infeed side, make sure the saw has reached full speed before plunging it into the wood or you may have some kickback.
 
wilburpan said:
...
What I'd like to know is, is there a rule of thumb for the amount of overhang that a guide rail needs to have to work with a board?  Such as, you need 6" on the front side and 1" on the back side?

One good rule of thumb is to have more overhang on either end than the minimum required.  Positioning your rail becomes more fussy without sufficient excess rail as you will have to be careful to have the required overhang at the same time you are trying to position your rail for the cut.  And later, as you are cutting your material you will need to take care that you proceed far enough that you cut though your material at the end, but no further or the front gib of the saw will go off the far end.  So, it is best to have more overhang than the minimum.

The, "how long a guide rail do I need to..." question comes up a lot and is often met with varying answers.  It is not so much that some answers are correct  and others wrong, but rather the different variables involved.  The more obvious differences are how you start and end your cuts.  Will you be plunging into your material, or do you want to plunge the saw before starting the cut?  Then, will you just need the blade to break through at the end of the cut, or do you want to continue further until the rear of the blade clears your material?  The thickness of your material and the depth you set your saw will also play into the equation.  And don't forget the extra rail needed if you want the Guide Rail Deflector installed on your rail.  And you should account for the Limit Stop when plunge cutting.  I thought I would post a chart of the minimums a couple years ago, but, as you can see, the process becomes a little too much...

Given the above considerations, you should be able to set a rail along an edge of some material and position the saw to see how much rail you will need at either end.  It has been awhile since I've made these measurements, so I should check those again before posting measurements.  But again, you should use a rail a little longer than the minimum.

 
If you do have to shorten the infeed side, make sure the saw has reached full speed before plunging it into the wood or you may have some kickback.

I agree with Alex on that and would add one more suggestion...

If you are making a plunge cut with a plunge cut saw (TS 55 or TS 75), you should have enough rail behind the saw to use the Limit Stop, as shown below.

[attachimg=#1]

One is provided with each saw and it will aid tremendously in reducing or eliminating kickback. Just attach it to the guide rail abutting the saw base prior to plunging the saw so it can't move backward.

Tom
 
Tom Bellemare said:
If you do have to shorten the infeed side, make sure the saw has reached full speed before plunging it into the wood or you may have some kickback.

I agree with Alex on that and would add one more suggestion...

If you are making a plunge cut with a plunge cut saw (TS 55 or TS 75), you should have enough rail behind the saw to use the Limit Stop, as shown below.

[attachimg=#1]

One is provided with each saw and it will aid tremendously in reducing or eliminating kickback. Just attach it to the guide rail abutting the saw base prior to plunging the saw so it can't move backward.

Tom

Not in the UK though. At least not with my TS55 purchased in November. It did come as part of the accessory systainer set:-

Accessories SYSTAINER
FS-SYS/2  Scope of delivery ? 2 clamps FSZ 120 
? deflector FS-AW 
? combination angle FS-KS 
? set-back stop FS-RSP 
? 2 connecting elements FSV 
? splinter guard FS-SP 1400 

  This kit has proved very useful.

Regards Rob
 
No, it's not included as part of the TS55/75 package in the UK. It is available separately though, at a cost of GBP11.40.

I bought two of them, thinking that I'd use a front and back stop at the same time. However, I've never used more than one, and the 2nd is (I think) still in the blister pack in a cupboard.
 
It's interesting that it's not included in the UK. Maybe you don't have excessive barristers...

In the US, the TS 55 comes with one that's loose in the Systainer. The packers usually put it to the left of the saw but there's a dedicated cavity for it under the saw toward the right-middle.

The TS 75 has one also and it rides on the saw base, so it's always handy.

Tom
 
Yes, there seem to be some significant differences between what's included as 'standard' either side of the pond. Same with the OF1400, which in the UK includes the parallel side fence. I believe that's not included in the US. The included collets are different too.
 
jonny round boy said:
Yes, there seem to be some significant differences between what's included as 'standard' either side of the pond. Same with the OF1400, which in the UK includes the parallel side fence. I believe that's not included in the US. The included collets are different too.

USA version of the OF1400 includes the 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" Collets, and does NOT included the side fence/edge guide. The edge guide will set you back an additional $64.50..
 
Tom Bellemare said:
It's interesting that it's not included in the UK. Maybe you don't have excessive barristers...

No, but they are working towards it.... [bite tongue]  ;D ;D
 
My TS55 came with a limit stop loose in the box. (that's about 4 years ago) and my TS75 came with one mounted on the saw base (last year) don't often use it with the TS55 . Would not dream of plunge cutting with the TS75 without it in place. The TS75 is a savage beast plunge cutting.
 
Damn - I'm going to have to rootle around in the systainer tomorrow and check it out. Pretty sure that my TS55 didn't come with a limit stop - also about 4 years ago btw; was there a collective Festool-lust amongst us Brits back then??

Pete
 
Peterm said:
Damn - I'm going to have to rootle around in the systainer tomorrow and check it out. Pretty sure that my TS55 didn't come with a limit stop - also about 4 years ago btw; was there a collective Festool-lust amongst us Brits back then??

Pete

You dont get them with your TS55 in UK
 
I've just checked my paperwork, and I got my TS55 in March 2007. I know the stop wasn't included in the package I bought.

I've got the UK 2005/2006 printed catalogue in front of me and the kickback stop is not listed for any of the five TS55 packages that were for sale then. However the stop is listed in all four TS75 packages, and is also shown and described in the photographic description of the TS75.

I suspect that windmill man's stop might have been an oversight or a freebie put in by the dealer, and not an officially-included accessory.

Forrest
 
Must have got lucky then [big grin], not often you get anything free from Festool. Either that or the dealer thought I looked ham fisted [embarrassed)
John
 
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