Paint stripping sander

[richard.selwyn]

I have a large iroko deck to strip ( the client had lined up a company to bead blast it but they have gone bust) most of it is at first floor height so for the under side I'll be supporting the weight of the machine at arms length.  Everything is covered with a thick coat of brown paint and a white undercoat. (Don,t ask me why, I don't know) My job was just to replace the rotten parts, now they want me to strip and refinish the whole thing.

So - which sander would be best for getting off all the paint. In between the slats I don't have much choice but for the flat surfaces I'd like something as efficient as possible.
Thanks in advance,
Richard

 

[PaulMarcel]

Wow, I don't envy your job on this one!

How 'bout a heat gun and the LS-130 using the scraper attachment?  Sanding that stuff off will only infuriate you and expand your colorful vocabulary.  The heat from sanding will melt the paint onto the sanding disc and gum it up.  I know this from sanding off the paint from a small yard box using the RO-150.  Can't imagine doing that to a whole floor.

The RAS-115 is more aggressive, but it will also generate heat.  The only advantage the RAS may have is it might strip the paint off before the heat melts it.  Can't be certain without trying.  You'd need coarse grit and open coat paper. Saphire comes to mind.

The heat gun, though, once to temperature will make quick work of softening up the paint for the scraper.  Handy, too, that the scraped off paint can just fall down since you're scraping above you.

Let us know what works for you!

 

[AlexThePalex]

The heat gun, though, once to temperature will make quick work of softening up the paint for the scraper.  Handy, too, that the scraped off paint can just fall down since you're scraping above you.

Heat guns are slow, if you go the route of scraping the paint away, for a large project I'd use a real methane/propane burner instead. Bit riskier but also a lot faster. Keep a bucket of water or an extinguisher at hand. I also keep a plant sprayer in reach, works best for me.

The fact that you work above your head is not handy at all, everything will fall down on you, preferably in your eyes. Removing paint above your head is a truly rotten job and worthy of an episode in Mike Rowe's Dirty Jobs. To make it a bit more bareable I use a full face screen which I highly recommend to anybody doing this kind of job.

[attachthumb=1]

What I think works best in this application is not a sander but the Metabo LF724 paint remover. It's basically a router with a very low depth setting (measured in micro meters) so you won't be sanding the paint away but cutting it away. It works very fast and with a connected vac you can control the dust reasonably well. If you're used to Festool prices, it's pretty cheap also.

If it HAS to be the Festool route for you, the RAS115 is of course the best choice with the RO150 a good second. If you're the Hulk you could even consider the RAS 180 since it's a large project, but for us mere mortals that beast would wear you out quite quickly working above your head.

The RAS gives you the fastest paint removal of any Festool sander, and the 115 is a pretty light machine so it will do nicely when working above your head. Forget about any dust control though when working above your head, it's impossible with a sander, even a Festool. You will find yourself covered in dust from top to toe.   
 
Don't worry about the heat built up PaulMarcel is talking about, it is really not a problem with the oil based paints we use here in Europe outdoors.

But I'd go for the Metabo LF724, works fastest and cleanest.

After you've done the rough paint removal, whether you use the LF724 or the RAS 115, you can clean up with the ETS150 or the DTS400.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

A handheld infrared unit will "loosen up" the paint for removal without damaging or changing the look of the wood.

 

[DavidW]

I am not familiar with Iroko lumber, but if it is anything like Ipe, I would try power washering a underside section with a 15* tip. Blast the bulk of the paint off, let dry than sand. I power wash my Ipe deck yearly and have had no problems with lifting the fibers like you do with P/T or cedar.

 

[Sam Murdoch]

You might start with a good paint stripper. Pricey, but compared to working overhead with heat and sanders - priceless.
Here is one link:www.paintremover.com/not-sure-which-product-works-for-you--how-to-remove-paint-how-to-remove-exterior-paint-from-wood.html
This stuff is applied with a brush then you roll out paper over the gel (with staples for overhead or tack strips?). The next day you pull the paper & the old paint away.
I don't really believe all the claims about non toxic. I would still wear face shields & gauntlets. A similar product did wonders for stripping 4 layers of old boat bottom paint in our back yard with really no mess. I finished with sanding the hull with my RO125. Not a pleasant job but I wasn't getting paid  [wink]

 

[Brice Burrell]

I like Alex's suggestion for the Metabo LF724 paint remover.

 

[richard.selwyn]

Thanks guys. I already have the Metabo as it happens so I'll try that and I'm going to order the Festool 115.
Any other suggestions? In between the 'planks' were there is little access I'd thought of the deltex.
I am wondering whether hiring a compressor and a water based sandblasting unit might be worthwhile - that's what the company he had lined up were going to do. Trouble is I've no experience with that sort of kit and it's an expensive and complicated deal for me to hire the stuff and drag it to the client.
Any more ideas.
Regards
Richard

 

[AlexThePalex]

Pretty cool you already have the Metabo. I wish I had one. Shouldn't be a problem for you then.

Ouch, between the planks ..... that's gonna be difficult. How is it going to be refinished anyway? Are you going to do a transparent finish or a solid colour? If it's the last you don't need to be to rigourous with removing the old paint.

If you use the Deltex with the extended pad then you'll probably be able to get in between the planks, but it's gonna take you a long time to get that all down to bare wood.

Another thought that occured to me, might it be possible to remove the deck, strip and paint it, and put it back in again? I realise that something like that is not always possible, but if it were, it might save you a lot of time and trouble.  

As for otters, I wouldn't bring them along, they're funny, but terribly distracting ....  [wink]

 

[VictorL]

For removing paint between boards I'm thinking about TS55/75 with rail and Bosch's Construct Wood blade. This blade was made for wood with nails, so it won't be a problem with paint, staples and nails. Just shave a little bit of paint.

VictorL

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Infrared... [wink]

click on me

 

[AlexThePalex]

Infrared... [wink]

click on me

Or some kind of evil super laser.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Infrared... [wink]

click on me

Or some kind of evil super laser.

JMB already has that.  How do you think his parents got him to move out?  [tongue]

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iroko

I bet a pressure washer would be the best.

 

[richard.selwyn]

Thanks again (I corrected otter  )
The deck will be oil finished - it was a crazy idea to paint it in the first place - the paint cracks and peels. I think I'm moving towards water/sand blasting and then sanding.
Removing the decking strips was my first though but it  is problematical - held down by rusty nails. I wish I didn't have this job but there you go.
Richard

 

[jmbfestool]

Infrared... [wink]

click on me

Or some kind of evil super laser.

JMB already has that.  How do you think his parents got him to move out?  [tongue]

I wish I would use it to cut wood  or just burn it? lol
CO2 Laser cutting wood (2 of 3)

 

[Ken Nagrod]

JMB,

You planning on tweaking your Kapex's lasers?

 

[Sam Murdoch]

I've been waiting for 20 years for someone to come up with a laser "table saw", OH! and a laser dental drill. Of course these would all be set up to only "cut" the intended material with no harm to surrounding tissue or digits. Just a matter of time really... Likely not in my life  [crying]

 

[AlexThePalex]

Well I'll be jiggered! JMB really has one ....  [blink]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iroko

I bet a pressure washer would be the best.

Dunno what kind of paints you're used to, but that trick don't work this side of the pond.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Well I'll be jiggered! JMB really has one ....  [blink]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iroko

I bet a pressure washer would be the best.

Dunno what kind of paints you're used to, but that trick don't work this side of the pond.

It's not really the paint, it is the material.  I have to think that the paint would not penetrate/bite very well into a dense wood like that.  Especially if it is a real oily wood.

A good pressure washer will take most of the paint off most anything around here, sans the risk of eating away at the softer wood.