Paslode for secret nailing

andyman

Member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
627
Just had a good deal on some engineered Oak flooring 20mm thick, has anyone used 1st fix Paslode for secret nailing?

I read that there is an adaptor plate but looked and can't see one on the web.

Any feedback appreciated
 
I would glue the floor with a good quality floor glue like

sika which had already been mentioned

If its floor joists you are laying on then a layer of plywood must go down first.

If you are tight for floor height then you could put the plywood between the rafters

Recommend screw the plywood down or glue and nail the plywood.
 
6mm ply thick enough?
floor height not to much of an issue as new skirting boards being fitted

 
They are 20mm boards with a 6mm oak,I may have to go between joists if using ply that thick as would be 32mm thick O/A

 
andyman said:
They are 20mm boards with a 6mm oak,I may have to go between joists if using ply that thick as would be 32mm thick O/A

If you are going cross the joists with the oak flooring  to be honest I don't think it would do any harm using 6mm plywood.

I just feel its little thin.  What centres are the joists 400 or 600?

 
18mm ply on joists then stick to that. Carpet and under lay is 18mm so yo gonna gain 2mm over a regular carpet height
 
Deansocial said:
18mm ply on joists then stick to that. Carpet and under lay is 18mm so yo gonna gain 2mm over a regular carpet height
do you mean between the joists otherwise that would be 38mm on top of the joists
 
andyman said:
Deansocial said:
18mm ply on joists then stick to that. Carpet and under lay is 18mm so yo gonna gain 2mm over a regular carpet height
do you mean between the joists otherwise that would be 38mm on top of the joists

Dean means ontop.    Cus he's saying you would have 18mm with carpet so you would gain 2mm

But you might have tiles or concrete floor or different floor heights so I should have asked the question.

What are the heights of your other floors  you are meeting upto.

I would personally go with 18mm  but you could go down to 12

Or you can get 14mm engineer oak flooring.
 
Original floor 20mm thick meeting up to carpet on the landing approx 14mm thick.
I had a good deal on the floor 189mm boards x 17m2 in smoked oak plus another 9m2 of golden colour oak same thickness and width for 450 inc vat
 
andyman said:
Original floor 20mm thick meeting up to carpet on the landing approx 14mm thick.
I had a good deal on the floor 189mm boards x 17m2 in smoked oak plus another 9m2 of golden colour oak same thickness and width for 450 inc vat

Well if it was me I would use 18mm ply and then create A chamfered threshold in the doorways to lower the floor height transition between oak flooring and carpet.

Or

I would stick 18mm in between the joists

Depending on job and client which route I would go

 
jmbfestool said:
andyman said:
Original floor 20mm thick meeting up to carpet on the landing approx 14mm thick.
I had a good deal on the floor 189mm boards x 17m2 in smoked oak plus another 9m2 of golden colour oak same thickness and width for 450 inc vat

Well if it was me I would use 18mm ply and then create A chamfered threshold in the doorways to lower the floor height transition between oak flooring and carpet.

Or

I would stick 18mm in between the joists

Depending on job and client which route I would go
[/quote
the clients are my wife and son lol.
I'll have a look in the morning to see what the oa thickness will be
 
jmbfestool said:
andyman said:
Original floor 20mm thick meeting up to carpet on the landing approx 14mm thick.
I had a good deal on the floor 189mm boards x 17m2 in smoked oak plus another 9m2 of golden colour oak same thickness and width for 450 inc vat

Well if it was me I would use 18mm ply and then create A chamfered threshold in the doorways to lower the floor height transition between oak flooring and carpet.

Or

I would stick 18mm in between the joists

Depending on job and client which route I would go
Possible change of plan the existing 5" floorboards that are still down, I checked earlier and the engineered board fits most of the way under the door as it is so would only need to trim about 5-6mm of door if I lay on top of the existing floor.
Only problem I can see is that I want to lay the boards the same way as the existing  due to the light coming through the window, can you see any issues with this solution?
 
andyman said:
jmbfestool said:
andyman said:
Original floor 20mm thick meeting up to carpet on the landing approx 14mm thick.
I had a good deal on the floor 189mm boards x 17m2 in smoked oak plus another 9m2 of golden colour oak same thickness and width for 450 inc vat

Well if it was me I would use 18mm ply and then create A chamfered threshold in the doorways to lower the floor height transition between oak flooring and carpet.

Or

I would stick 18mm in between the joists

Depending on job and client which route I would go
Possible change of plan the existing 5" floorboards that are still down, I checked earlier and the engineered board fits most of the way under the door as it is so would only need to trim about 5-6mm of door if I lay on top of the existing floor.
Only problem I can see is that I want to lay the boards the same way as the existing  due to the light coming through the window, can you see any issues with this solution?

You can not lay your flooring the same direction as the existing boards.

Well you can if you want and likelihood you will get any problems is very low

But I wouldn't take the risk on a clients job but you are the client soo...

Any way few options I would consider

1. remove all the existing boarding  and replace with chipboard/plywood. (Best option but its the most work)

2. You lay your flooring the other direction so running across the existing boards (easiest and quickest)

3. Cut a little more of your doors and stick down some thin plywood down to the existing floor board using a flooring adhesive like sika. .  (Little extra work and little extra cost but quicker than first option)

Option 2 and 3 I would go round screwing all the boards to make  they are solid so you don't get any creaking noises.

 
Yeah I didn't really want to run the boards same direction but don't want to run parallel with the window due to the light crossing the boards rather than running with them.
I'll have to have a think probably fit them Wednesday wonderering if I rip them up wether to use 18mm OSB
as a cheaper option saying that chipboard probably cheaper than the OSB
 
Back
Top