Planing and sanding through pin nails?

CNX

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
78
Hi all,

Recently,I bought several Festool products including the MFT and TS55 and I began to use sheet goods so often. I then discovered how useful the brad and pin nailers. All these tools make my furniture making so efficient and these tools are fun to use!

But then I also discovered there are many different logic and expertise that would be required, compared to the conventional solid wood constructions.

For example, the other day, I attached narrow stocks to conceal the plywood edge of a carcass. With pin nails, gluing is so easy!
Then I thought I was going to plane a bit to make them flush and sand a bit, only to realize that would ruin my plane blades or sanding pads!!

I am just wondering how would you do that. Do you finish the narrow stock as much as you can before you attach to the carcass?

I would appreciate your advises here.

Thanks,

 
Finish the work first, or sand afterwards. Don't use the metal blade of your hand plane.
The heads of a 23ga pin nailer are so small that they don't bother me if I need to sand after nailing with it.
18ga is bigger,  but my nailer tends to drive them deeper , so I'm more worried about filling the depression if I didn't adjust the air pressure for the nailer.
 
I've sanded the top parts of staples completely gone without adverse effect to the sander, no problems with pin nails either, but wouldn't dare hit any of it with a steel blade
 
Paul G said:
I've sanded the top parts of staples completely gone without adverse effect to the sander, no problems with pin nails either, but wouldn't dare hit any of it with a steel blade

^^^ This. It's not likely that a small piece of metal like that would damage your sand paper. And if it did, the cost is minimal to just replace it.
 
My brad nail guns can be adjusted to get the depth greater if required. Failing that, I have often used a small punch to sink the end of the brad a little further. The sanded end of a brad might rust one day and so it is best that it is below the surface. Any holes left can be filled very easily.

Everyone should take care with long thin brads - I have often had a 40 - 50 mm long brad do a 90 degree change of direction in a work piece and come out through the side. Keep your hands out of the way at all times!

Peter
 
Peter Parfitt said:
Everyone should take care with long thin brads - I have often had a 40 - 50 mm long brad do a 90 degree change of direction in a work piece and come out through the side. Keep your hands out of the way at all times!

Peter

THE SAME THING IS TRUE OF FRAMING NAILS, ESPECIALLY IN PRESSURE-TREATED WOOD. I forgot once and had a nail come right back through my thumb. I am more careful now!
 
Thank you all!

OK, I'll try to sand it. I guess I should have more carefully adjusted the thickness of the narrow stocks before I attached them so that I could minimize the sanding.
The edges of my carcass and shelves were not completely flush. I thought I could easily conceal the imperfection by attaching the solid wood edge and plane them down. I was not thinking about the pins...

I am just wondering why my pin nailer doesn't have the depth control like the brad nailer. Maybe that is the way all pin nailers are made?
 
I always make sure they are set a couple of mm below the surface, then I fill the hole with filler or coloured wax, then sand.

If you are sanding so much that you will reach the nails, I don't think you have set them deep enough.
 
Hi RL,

I can set the depth for my brad nailer, but not for my P&C pin nailer.
I wonder that is the case only for the P&C?
 
wow said:
Peter Parfitt said:
Everyone should take care with long thin brads - I have often had a 40 - 50 mm long brad do a 90 degree change of direction in a work piece and come out through the side. Keep your hands out of the way at all times!

Peter

THE SAME THING IS TRUE OF FRAMING NAILS, ESPECIALLY IN PRESSURE-TREATED WOOD. I forgot once and had a nail come right back through my thumb. I am more careful now!

Had the same experience with a 35mm pin that JUST missed my finger.  17mm of the pin came out of the wood.  I'd hate to think of pulling that out of my finger. 

 
Back
Top