Please enlighten me re Festool drills

[tbellemare]

The Centrotec bits are the same across the flats as 1/4" hex bits but are slightly smaller across the corners.

The Centrotec chuck won't accept regular 1/4" hex bits because the corners stick out too far.

The bit holders, output shaft of the drill, and Jacobs style chucks will all accept normal 1/4" hex bits.

Tom

 

[tbellemare]

It may seem like a bad idea to make it unique but I think it's smart.

A regular ball-detent hex bit only has a little bit of hex behind the ball capture groove. It is designed to be grabbed by a bit holder and the torque transmitted to it by the bit holder - something like:

[attachthumb=#1]

A Centrotec bit and chuck are different. The chuck grabs the bit with a ball detent capture just like the typical ones described above. The big difference is that the bit seats farther away. It seats and is driven by the drill shaft, NOT the chuck.

That improves wobble or run out. It also makes the stack shorter.

Tom

 

[jvsteenb]

...and that's all great, and very comfortable and easy to use. But the drill bits really are the bees knees ! You get all kinds of drills and never ever have to loosen a chuck to change them out.
The bradpoints are super, the HSS metal drills are very good, and here in Europe there's acces to the Protool masonry bits as well ( they're more or less shaped like a universal drill bit, so the carbide inserts really have like an edge ) and on top of that the superp Zorbo drills, think of them as a crossover between a large cup hole router bit and a forstner drill with removable ( and adjustable !! ) centerpoint bit.  All available in Centrotec shaft.

Gotta love the system......

Regards,

Job

 

[Toolfest]

I highly recommend to anyone considering a new drill to actually try out the Festool drills. Only then can you understand how superior they are. Several things make them far better than other drills such as the electronically controlled motors, assortment of chucks, Centrotec drill bits and driver bits. The drilling and driving is much more accurate than with other drills. Wobble is almost nonexistent with the Centrotec system. I initially bought my C 12 because of  how comfortable it is to hold. When I started to actually use it, I discovered how much more accurate it is compared to other drills. I liked it so much that I bought a second C 12.

 

[Dan Clark]

I highly recommend to anyone considering a new drill to actually try out the Festool drills. Only then can you understand how superior they are. Several things make them far better than other drills such as the electronically controlled motors, assortment of chucks, Centrotec drill bits and driver bits. The drilling and driving is much more accurate than with other drills. Wobble is almost nonexistent with the Centrotec system. I initially bought my C 12 because of  how comfortable it is to hold. When I started to actually use it, I discovered how much more accurate it is compared to other drills. I liked it so much that I bought a second C 12.

A big second on the accuracy.  Control is another big plus with the C12 (and T12/15).  The ability to drive a small screw VERY slowly and feel the tension is second to none.

Another big plus with the C12 is that you can use it with two hand positions.  Move your hand down the handle and use it like any other drill.  Or you can move your hand to the top of the handle and pull the trigger with your middle and ring finger.  This puts your hand and arm in line with the chuck and bit.  Which means that you can put your shoulder and arm into the drill without torquing or twisting your wrist.  Try installing drywall screws and you'll see what I mean.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Warrior]

we need more centrotec available here.

Woodwreck, just go and get a C12 or 2 or 3 with the 1.3AmpHr batteries. Super light, very powerful, charges in 20 min. One of my favorite festools!

 

[Rob-GB]

I am surprised no-one mentioned torque control yet  [scared]
What I really like is that when you set the torque setting for setting a screw the machine actually stops turning without making that ghastly noise clutch type ones do.
This has got to reduce wear and tear on the tool and save battery power too. ;D
Rob.

 

[Deansocial]

i have never really used torque control, other than on stainless steel screws. I put the screw in and let go of the trigger when it is in far enough.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I have not gotten the hang of the torque control yet I think. At the same torque setting, the screw ends up at different depths depending on the speed of the drill. I'm not very used to working with torque settings because on my older drill they were totally crap and I got used to doing it on the eye, so I have no clue if it's supposed to be like this or that I'm doing something wrong.

 

[Warrior]

The problem with torque settings not setting the screws exaclty the same each time is that wood varies in density and will have more or less friction depending on the grain structure which also varies within the board. Has nothing to do with the drill. Thats why I like impact drivers the best for driving screws, even itty bitty ones. The control I can achieve is multiple times greater than any drill c12 or T15. I like drills for drilling and drivers for driving.

 

[woodwreck]

[thanks]
I want to thank everyone, particularly Dan, Tom, and Shane for the layout pics and specs discussing the full range of attributes, including telling me about the clearance options. The following day I ordered the C12 package from clearance stock.

WW

 

[bobbobbob]

Enjoy your new C12!

 

[fdengel]

Out of curiosity, when you put a 1/4" hex bit into the drill's output shaft without a chuck installed, does it lock in somehow, or does it just sit in there requiring pressure against the bit to hold it in the drill?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Out of curiosity, when you put a 1/4" hex bit into the drill's output shaft without a chuck installed, does it lock in somehow, or does it just sit in there requiring pressure against the bit to hold it in the drill?

No, it doesn't lock in.  However, the bits do tend to stay in the output shaft pretty well.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Out of curiosity, when you put a 1/4" hex bit into the drill's output shaft without a chuck installed, does it lock in somehow, or does it just sit in there requiring pressure against the bit to hold it in the drill?

No, it doesn't lock in.  However, the bits do tend to stay in the output shaft pretty well.

I'd go so far as to say that it's so tight that I have trouble getting a good grip to pull them out.  Hopefully others will weigh in since my opinion may be perceived as bias.

 

[tbellemare]

'Works for me, though I have had them pull out. I use this technique whenever I'm in a tight spot or get too lazy to add an adapter.

Tom

 

[fdengel]

Interesting...

Thank you!

 

[Michael_MA]

In history of the world there are three great myths: "The world is flat.", "I'll respect you in the morning.", and "Festool drills can't use standard 1/4" hex bits."  [eek]   Read my lips... There is NO incompatibility with standard 1/4" hex bits!

This is a my bit box with all sorts of wire-detent and ball-detent (power drive) bits:

This pic shows my Festool chucks and most (not all) of my bit holders with a selection of bits.  With the exception of my new Spax bit, I've used every one of them hundreds to thousands of times.   NO problems.  Left to right and top to bottom - all are standard 1/4" hex bits:

- Jacobs chuck with Torx wire-detent bit in FastCap bit holder (very nice bit holder).
- Right angle chuck with square drive, wire-detent bit set directly in the chuck.
- Eccentric chuck with ball-detent 1/4" socket bit.
- Depth stop chuck with wire-detent Spax #2 bit.   (Special bit for Spax screws.)
- Centrotec chuck with wire-detent Pozidrive bit in Centrotec Bit Holder BH 60mm.
- Centrotec Bit Holder BHS 65mm with ball-detent 2" Torx bit.
- Standard ball-detent bit holder with #2 Phillips bit.  
- Magna sliding sleeve ball detent bit holder with small slotted head bit.

What you see is only a small fraction of the ways I've combined my C12 with chucks, bit holders and bits.   I find no incompatibility.

IMO, the C12 is one of best drills on the market.   Perfect?  No.   It doesn't have a light, doesn't have LiIon batteries, and doesn't have a belt hook.   OTOH, it is one tough, flexible little drill and much more powerful than its size and voltage would lead to expect.  

There may never be a perfect drill, but the new C12 or C15 may come very close.  Festool tweaked the C12, added more power, and fixed the minor limitations of the current C12.  

If you want a great deal now, go for the C12.  If you want the latest and greatest, get the new C12 or C15.  In my (ever so) humble opinion and with the possible exception of the ProTool drills (NAINA), the C-series Festool drills are the best, most flexible drills anywhere.   And yes, that includes the current T12/15's.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., Edited to be "Read my lips..."

Just came across your amzing post Dan..

i would call this the ultimate compatibility post about the Festool Centrotec system  [smile]

Thanks for posting !

kind regards, Mike