plug cutter for prefinished wood

[Alan m]

hi there. i have a dozen prefineshed probably oak fire doors to hang. probably prehung but not sure yet. .
iv got a carbide tiped 1/2"plug set but it leaves a slight gap around the plug when the plug is hamered in flush. it works great on barewood because i am sanding them anyway.
anybody got any ideas.. i am not sure if it is the set or because of the prefinish.

how do you hide the screws on prefinished door frames.

thanks alan

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

Have you tried using a taped plug cutter? That might help. I can see the plugs needing to be finished after fitting tho

 

[jmbfestool]

uwww Oak fire doors!  They are going to be a nice weight to carry about  [tongue]

Well in the past and still do now  on Oak door frames I use straps I fix on the back of the frame or fix plywood on the back depending how its finished.

I always try and avoid fixing through oak frame.   Depending on the job if your on price,  how much the client wants to pay as the quickest way is just banging screws through and plugging them.

Should be using a tapered plug cutter like Galwaydude mentioned that will eliminate any gaps.  I hate plugs which are dead on size any way I dont think they are any good wouldnt use them my self.

I have fixed screws behind the hinges before so you have less on show but that was on french doors so it works on both sides  if its single doors its pointless as you will still have a few on show on the catch side any way .

JMB

 

[Alan m]

can you elaborate on the straps jmb.
i use a tapered plug but that only works when you can sand flush

 

[jmbfestool]

Yes well you just gotta be good at using a chisel Alan  [tongue]  To get the tapered plugs flush with out marking the frame  [tongue]

I use wall plate straps cus they are the right thickness  not to thick so they will still bend back but thick enough to hold solid. 

I have used plywood aswell good for fixing your plasterboard to also if you have returning plasterboard into the frame with no architrave  it keeps it parallel with the frame then.

If the wall is really thick I always like to set the frame in so you have no architrave on either side then like I said you can use plywood or straps you just fix them on the back of the frames having them sailing past either side  1 - 2 -3 inches what ever room you have really as long as you have enough to get a screw in.

If you are fixing a frame to a stud or block wall which is the same thickness and so have architrave on both sides.  You have to bend the straps back then into the stud or block.

JMB

 

[Deansocial]

Just make sure what ever method you use complys to fire regs. Best way for oak etc is to have a 2 piece frame so like a rmovable stop lining fixedin then use wide stops to cover the screw heads using glue and 18g pins, just wax the pin heads. There are 2 part frames you can buy in ireland i thing ill go find a link

 

[Deansocial]

http://www.trademouldings.com/flexifit/mobile/index.html

 

[jmbfestool]

Just make sure what ever method you use complys to fire regs. Best way for oak etc is to have a 2 piece frame so like a rmovable stop lining fixedin then use wide stops to cover the screw heads using glue and 18g pins, just wax the pin heads. There are 2 part frames you can buy in ireland i thing ill go find a link

Yeah thats another  good alternative way.  

JMB

 

[Deansocial]

Just make sure what ever method you use complys to fire regs. Best way for oak etc is to have a 2 piece frame so like a rmovable stop lining fixedin then use wide stops to cover the screw heads using glue and 18g pins, just wax the pin heads. There are 2 part frames you can buy in ireland i thing ill go find a link

Yeah thats another  good alternative way.  

JMB

Best thing about it is if the first section is slightly narrower than the wall the second can be cut to be spot on for the arcitrave to go pn the other

 

[jmbfestool]

Couple clients I had my frames made by my mate I designed them and he made them for me.  So I used these methods below to fix them

The grey are the straps the brown are the frames but I haven't drawn them like how they where its just for illustration purposes.   The brown/yellow is plywood method.

The two frames on the right  would have plasterboard returning into them eliminating architrave when you have a wide reveal or using a nice thick but narrow oak frame.  I get my mate to make them like 80mm x 60mm or something like that   My preferred look set in.   Then he puts a mould or something on the frame or chamfer or something

[attachimg=#]

 

[jmbfestool]

Just make sure what ever method you use complys to fire regs. Best way for oak etc is to have a 2 piece frame so like a rmovable stop lining fixedin then use wide stops to cover the screw heads using glue and 18g pins, just wax the pin heads. There are 2 part frames you can buy in ireland i thing ill go find a link

Yeah thats another  good alternative way.  

JMB

Best thing about it is if the first section is slightly narrower than the wall the second can be cut to be spot on for the arcitrave to go pn the other

Yeah I know what you mean I have fitted some frames like that for Bamfords JCB int their houses   frames like 300 wide or more  just fitted a frame which was like 1 inch narrower than the wall then have a SUPER wide clapping strip basically which was wider than it needed to be then scribed it to fit the wall  because it was old building most walls where not parallel so it was the easiest way to get both sides running with the old plaster but even with the dapped and plaster it worked well as plasterers never get them parallel any way

JMB

 

[Alan m]

thats a great method jmb.
i have no say in the type of door frame. there is a company supplying them that the boss knows.
problem is the walls are slabed and skimed. . i could chisel off a bit behind the arcitrave.
i think i will probably have to use a plug cutter and chisel it flush.

any way of matching the finish

 

[jmbfestool]

thats a great method jmb.
i have no say in the type of door frame. there is a company supplying them that the boss knows.
problem is the walls are slabed and skimed. . i could chisel off a bit behind the arcitrave.
i think i will probably have to use a plug cutter and chisel it flush.

any way of matching the finish

You can do that might be a lot of work though start chopping plaster board.  I think for a office/commercial job no one is going to appreciate a secret fixing method to be honest are they?  I would just plug it.

Jmb

 

[Deansocial]

Pre finished will be laquered, buy a spray can of laquer for the plugs then blend them in with high grit paper

 

[Alan m]

thanks dean. how will i work out if it is acid cat or pre cat etc so i can get something to match.
i might ring the supplier to see if they have any cans to touch up such things.

 

[Alan m]

its a shame you cant get those plugs that sit in the hole with a rebate  but have a dome on them , then i would not have to worry about anything

 

[jmbfestool]

thanks dean. how will i work out if it is acid cat or pre cat etc so i can get something to match.
i might ring the supplier to see if they have any cans to touch up such things.

Good luck!  Some companies are nobs!  I'm on a job they have spent 10,000pounds on the oak flooring plus me fitting it (and Dean social)  And I called them up to ask what the finish they used on the flooring because I have fitted some oak stairs and they want the stairs to match the flooring best as possible.  They told me its their own made up stuff and no they won't send anything. 

So now ended up trying testers my self with stain and finishes and got OSMO sending samples to see if they have anything which will match.

Tedd tod the company name and shame!

Jmb

 

[jmbfestool]

its a shame you cant get those plugs that sit in the hole with a rebate  but have a dome on them , then i would not have to worry about anything

.... A dome?  So they would be sticking out?  They would get in the way of your door no??

You could make a feature out of the plugs........?  Might try it my self.  You could drill a shallow hole larger than a plug then drill a deeper but slightly smaller hole for the screw and plug.  This will create a "shadow" line/groove  around the plug.  This would take your eye off the finish not matching up perfectly on the plugs with the frame.

Jmb

 

[Alan m]

i wouldnt be putting the domed plugs in the rebate , they would be on the thicker face.

do video jmb showing your idea. it should work. problem then is i would have to continue that all around all the rooms

 

[Deansocial]

thanks dean. how will i work out if it is acid cat or pre cat etc so i can get something to match.
i might ring the supplier to see if they have any cans to touch up such things.

Take an offcut and see if morrels can match it up, if theres a morrels near you.