Plunge saw or circular

[Darren1972]

Ah right 2.7 would go in my sprinter no problem never knew they did one all the saws I've been viewing come with a 1400 guide so i think i will get the basic unit and buy the bigger rail seperate but now i think of it if i am  cross cutting a 1200 board i might need the 1400 as the bigger one wont be supported and may bend arghhh my wifes gonna kill me

 

[Holmz]

Realy good advice festoolions i realy appreciate it one more thing i am going for the tsc55 li since i have loads of 18 v batts and chargers what i need to know about now is the guide ralls the one that comes with it is 1400 mm long i cut max 2400 boards most days cani stop the cut and move the rail or shud i get two rails and a connector thanks for all the info it realy helps

With the Bosch rails that works connecting and disconnecting rails.
Plus there are two clamp slots, with one right next to the splinter strip.

For Featool you will want another long rail or some mechanism for rail connection such as the Betterly. By the time you work out all the gear you have a different saw.

Starting with having the batteries makes it a logical choice so you will want a long rail.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

It's always handy to have enough rails to cover the rip and cross cuts at the same time

 

[Wuffles]

It's also always handy to ask any retailer you might be buying from whether they have any "damaged" longer rails in stock that you can buy cheaper. These things get damaged in transit all the time and are normally just left on a shelf in a back room somewhere waiting for someone like me to ask that very question.

I live near Weston Super Mare, and there's a big retailer near me that might have some lying around.

 

[Darren1972]

Thanks guys are the connecting strips any good ive heard mixed reviews because i think i would prefer two 1400 rails and a connector as that would cover most scenarios plus i kinda like the carry bag too if there easily damaged thank you ps the only retailer i found up north is axminster and dm tools both very snooty but i will ask them about damaged ones thanks

 

[rst]

Buy the Makita rail joiners...they are much better than the Festool version, they do not move or score the rail when tightening.

 

[DB10]

  Darren, Your saying you cut 2.4 boards most days, if that's the case do yourself a favour and get the 2.7 rail. Joining smaller rails is ok but a bit of a faffing around and times money at the end of the day, it sounds like you'll get your money's worth out of the 2.7 rail.

 

[Darren1972]

Thanks for the advice ime gonna get the 2.7 and a 1.4 dont realy want jointers

 

[jmbfestool]

Rail sizes you need are

1400
2700

And but not a must is a 800.

For narrow boards or for tight spaces 800 comes in handy.

What I did was cut one of my 1400 into 600 and 800.  I have found the 600 has come in handy many of times.

 

[Holmz]

I got a stack of blade of various types when I got my Mt55. (few teeth to many and a concrete blade too)
The TS55 is similar in that the blade lasts a long time.
If one was ripping all day, or cross cutting then it would make sense to change it.
If you are cutting a rip, then a cross-cut, it can be inconvenient to change blades.

I have even cut drywall (plasterboard/gyprock) with it and a jig saw.

 

[Darren1972]

I got a stack of blade of various types when I got my Mt55. (few teeth to many and a concrete blade too)
The TS55 is similar in that the blade lasts a long time.
If one was ripping all day, or cross cutting then it would make sense to change it.
If you are cutting a rip, then a cross-cut, it can be inconvenient to change blades.

I have even cut drywall (plasterboard/gyprock) with it and a jig saw.                      Will the fine tooth blade that comes with the saw rip 18 mm boards down ok or should i buy the universal one also do you know any cheaper good quality versions other than festool in the uk ps i have ordered the tsc55 li plunge saw thanks

 

[Holmz]

I got a stack of blade of various types when I got my Mt55. (few teeth to many and a concrete blade too)
The TS55 is similar in that the blade lasts a long time.
If one was ripping all day, or cross cutting then it would make sense to change it.
If you are cutting a rip, then a cross-cut, it can be inconvenient to change blades.

I have even cut drywall (plasterboard/gyprock) with it and a jig saw. 

Will the fine tooth blade that comes with the saw rip 18 mm boards down ok or should i buy the universal one also do you know any cheaper good quality versions other than festool in the uk ps i have ordered the tsc55 li plunge saw thanks

The standard blade will do it all for me, but my saw maybe a little more powerful than yours (??).
For that OSB I would suggest just getting a second standard blade.
Your probably more worry about the glue gumming up the blade than anything else.

I cut plywood, moulding/skirting, gyprock, and it doesn't seem like it has bothered it all yet.
But someone with a TS55 can give you better advice.

 

[Darren1972]

I got a stack of blade of various types when I got my Mt55. (few teeth to many and a concrete blade too)
The TS55 is similar in that the blade lasts a long time.
If one was ripping all day, or cross cutting then it would make sense to change it.
If you are cutting a rip, then a cross-cut, it can be inconvenient to change blades.

I have even cut drywall (plasterboard/gyprock) with it and a jig saw. 

Will the fine tooth blade that comes with the saw rip 18 mm boards down ok or should i buy the universal one also do you know any cheaper good quality versions other than festool in the uk ps i have ordered the tsc55 li plunge saw thanks

The standard blade will do it all for me, but my saw maybe a little more powerful than yours (??).
For that OSB I would suggest just getting a second standard blade.
Your probably more worry about the glue gumming up the blade than anything else.

I cut plywood, moulding/skirting, gyprock, and it doesn't seem like it has bothered it all yet.
But someone with a TS55 can give you better advice.

thankyou

 

[CrazyLarry]

The standard blade will do it all for me, but my saw maybe a little more powerful than yours (??).
For that OSB I would suggest just getting a second standard blade.
Your probably more worry about the glue gumming up the blade than anything else.

I cut plywood, moulding/skirting, gyprock, and it doesn't seem like it has bothered it all yet.
But someone with a TS55 can give you better advice.

thankyou

In my experience the key thing with the blades is the abrasiveness of the surface / binding substance so the advice you'll get on here about having a dedicated blade for laminates and another one or two dedicated for MDF is bang on.

It takes a while to appreciate it, but it's worth having half a dozen blades and swaping with task and material they do last longer that way and you get the cut you actually wanted first time

 

[jacko9]

If you want power get a Skil 6-1/2'' 5825 Wormdrive Saw that's 110V plug in will cut 2" at 90 degrees with no problems.

 

[JimD]

My DeWalt track saw seems pretty powerful.  I've trimmed a solid exterior door with it at a slight angle and it seemed to have plenty of power.  But I would agree, a good circular saw will have more power and work better for things like cutting up thick pressure treated.  But an advantage of the plunge saw I didn't see mentioned is the arbor bearings.  The blade on my Milwaukee circular saw moves a little side to side and doesn't cut as smooth, even with a 40 tooth blade.  A track saw is a precision tool.  A circular saw is a relatively crude tool.  Both have a place in my shop.  Furniture is track saw time.  Framing is circular saw time.  Both will do the job of the other - to a point.  Neither does the job of the other very well.  I'd rather frame with a track saw than make furniture with a circular saw, however.