Plunged through MFT top. :'( Fixable?

eddomak

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Dec 13, 2013
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I forgot to check the depth of the blade and plunged through the MFT tabletop today. Close to the front edge :'( Thankfully didn't strike any aluminium. I realised straight away and came back up, but now I there is a deep gash.

Should I do anything about it? It doesn't seem to affect much. But I was wondering about filling it to prevent any movement etc. This one I can't just flip it around...
 
As you did not hit the aluminium it sounds as though the cut does not go to the edge of the MDF. You stopped almost straight away and so not much damage has been done.

I would not worry about it at all.

Peter
 
No need to worry.  If its displeasing you can always remove the top and rotate or flip so it's out of eye sight.  You can also buy one, but save the $$$.  There's no performance issue here. 
 
I cut deeper into my MFT top than I wanted and didn't like looking at the slot I had cut. All wood and no metal cut.

I mixed some 2-part plastic wood and forced it into the slot with a bladed screwdriver. I sliced off the excess with a single edge razor blade.

After the plastic wood dried (2 days), I very lightly sanded the now filled slot with 320 grip sandpaper wrapped on a block. I have to look very carefully to see where the boo-boo was.

The next time I used the TS55 track saw, I was far more careful about depth of cut.
 
I think my MFT top is 70% MDF, 20% two pack, 5% Coffee and 5% undetermined!
 
That's really good Jools - my MFT top is quite old and it is probably only 85% MFT top now - the rest went in the CT or up my nose!

Peter
 
mines look like some sort of modern art with all the stains, glue etc..maybe Ill frame it and sell it on ebay
 
jobsworth said:
mines look like some sort of modern art with all the stains, glue etc..maybe Ill frame it and sell it on ebay

Hi Ron,

Big mistake taking the hot dogs into the workshop...

Happy Christmas.

Peter
 
Thanks all - I think I will put in some filler to make myself feel better.  [wink]
 
fshanno said:
The MFT top is a consumable in my world.
It is a consumable, and too often is viewed as a piece of art by some.  LOL.

I recently purchased a used MFT for a great price, inclusive of many kerf marks, never hesitated. Sold!!!!!
 
jobsworth said:
mines look like some sort of modern art with all the stains, glue etc..maybe Ill frame it and sell it on ebay
Haha, if you would do it at the end of a day working with it and glue'd everything that happened to be on your MFT to it you'd have a Tool-Art like Spoerri's Eat-Art ;)
 
Peter Parfitt said:
As you did not hit the aluminium it sounds as though the cut does not go to the edge of the MDF. You stopped almost straight away and so not much damage has been done.

I would not worry about it at all.

Peter

But let's assume that some brand new TS55 owner while cutting the splinterguard on his brand new MFT/3 didn't catch the part where the track was overhanging the table and NOT in the cross cutting position. So after setting the saw to maximum depth (still don't understand that part) the table is cut in half and the aluminum rails have zero clearance kerfs...

I'm guessing I'll eventually have to replace the top due to sagging, but what are the implications of the cut aluminum?

 

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johnesher said:
But let's assume that some brand new TS55 owner while cutting the splinterguard on his brand new MFT/3 didn't catch the part where the track was overhanging the table and NOT in the cross cutting position. So after setting the saw to maximum depth (still don't understand that part) the table is cut in half and the aluminum rails have zero clearance kerfs...

I'm guessing I'll eventually have to replace the top due to sagging, but what are the implications of the cut aluminum?

Ouch...thats too painfull to look at.  [eek]
 
I just saw a post last night that the rail is available. I think like $80 or you can JB WELD it. That stuff is pretty good.
If it makes you feel any better, that is a pretty clean cut, straight and no Tearout
 
jnug said:
I did just find the mft profile extrusions at the Festool site. Not sure how they fasten. But if I can find out how they fasten as a perimeter, then I would be in business. Looking at an mft from afar it looks like there is come corner hardware that is run through the extrusions at each extrusion end and that is what holds it all together. I don't know if there are screw holes that would allow the profiles to be screwed into a facing surface.                                                         

Yes I want to be able to use the profile with my various Festool clamps and such and be able to capture workpieces on edge to sand them for example with a power tool.

As for stability and the standard mft/3 tables I would probably get the extra leg supports for a standard mft/3 even if I did not intend doing any hand planning on it.

Anyway..does anybody know how the profiles can be attached? Is it the profiles attaching to each other to make a perimeter or can they be attached to a facing surface by some means....maybe there are screw holes that I am not seeing.

Also, the long profile is like $72.00 ...not bad really if there is a way to attach it or make a perimeter from them.
 
Hi John

I am sorry that you have had this mishap. The top can be fixed if you have a Domino or (washes mouth out with soap) a biscuit jointer. If you want to be absolutely accurate, plane up a distance piece equal in thickness to the saw kerf.

Remove the top. Line up the two sides so that the holes are in a straight line (use dogs and a straight edge). Mark the domino joints (6 mm x 40 mm), I would use 4 across the width. Stick on the thin strip to one side and let dry. Do the domino joints and glue up.

As for the aluminium. It will be a slightly weaker but you will probably be okay but you can get the extrusion in 2m lengths is need be.

Peter
 
johnesher said:
Peter Parfitt said:
As you did not hit the aluminium it sounds as though the cut does not go to the edge of the MDF. You stopped almost straight away and so not much damage has been done.

I would not worry about it at all.

Peter

But let's assume that some brand new TS55 owner while cutting the splinterguard on his brand new MFT/3 didn't catch the part where the track was overhanging the table and NOT in the cross cutting position. So after setting the saw to maximum depth (still don't understand that part) the table is cut in half and the aluminum rails have zero clearance kerfs...

I'm guessing I'll eventually have to replace the top due to sagging, but what are the implications of the cut aluminum?

Did the same thing to mine a few years ago... Still working fine and I use mines as a min 4 days a week as a my primary work table , hammering , drilling, all sort of well work... No problems
 
I found that, other than it being visually displeasing to me and a reminder of setting my depth correctly, there are no effects. I luckily did not cut into the aluminum (yet) but I have a cut that goes through the top for a small distance. It has not seemed to affect anything.
 
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