plywood and painting for window seat

dicktill

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Joined
Jan 24, 2013
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405
Location
Allegany NY
Hi all,

I want to build a window seat/shelves like those pictured. I had planned on using 3/4" plywood, painted white, but my lazy side is thinking of melamine now. Perhaps not as "professional looking", but would eliminate many, many hours of painting and sanding. I am aware that melamine isn't as stiff as plywood, so I have to be careful of loads.

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What say ye?

Thanks, Dick

EDIT> Subject change at OPs request
 
Those hours of painting a good investment into that project to maintain the harmony with the rest of the trim/woodwork in the house. 
 
I'll agree +100,000 with Brice.  Make it fit in and don't make it look like a cheap laundry room ready to assemble cabinet.

Peter
 
Wow, the "heavy hitters" all say NO.  [eek]  That's what I thought, but I had to ask.  [wink] Thanks for your comments!

OK, but you guys are going to have to hold my hand through my "brush mark" problems.  [tongue]

Regards, Dick
 
dicktill said:
Wow, the "heavy hitters" all say NO.  [eek]  That's what I thought, but I had to ask.  [wink] Thanks for your comments!

OK, but you guys are going to have to hold my hand through my "brush mark" problems.  [tongue]

Regards, Dick

Brush marks are in , don't you watch the home improvement / remodeling shows?  [wink]

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
don't you watch the home improvement / remodeling shows?  [wink]

Seth

No I don't!  [crying]  Have no time except to play with my toys and try to keep up with FOG.  [eek]  (really!)
 
I just completed a similar project.  The original paint used in the rest of the space was Ben Moore Satin Impervo, White Dove.

After research, I bought a Earlex Spray Station 5500 and ordered General Finishes Enduro Milk Paint, semi-gloss (same sheen as Satin Impervo), color-matched to the Ben Moore.  General Finishes says their milk paint is "furniture grade".   I thinned the milk paint about 10% with the General Finishes Extender to keep a wet edge and sprayed with the 1.5mm tip.  The color match was perfect, as was the finish sheen.

After this project, we had to replace all the windows in the house, along with all the casing.  This involved 5 different Ben Moore colors.  All five GF milk paints matched perfectly with the Ben Moore.  Gen Fin says they can match any color palette.

The General Finishes milk paint required no priming and dried within 30 minutes to the touch.  I let the first coat stand 24 hours before the second coat to make sure I had a good bond.  

There is no stink of solvents and no ambering with age with water-born paints, and minimal overspray with the Earlex.

I am thrilled with the General Finishes Enduro milk paint and the Earlex sprayer.  I doubt I will ever shoot Satin Impervo with the airless again.
 
As other have noted, paint is the better choice.  Melamine is usually applied in a very thin coating over MDF.  Your application is a window seat, as in under a window.  Melamine scratches easily and is basically unrepairable.  Now let's say you leave the window open and rain gets in, and winds up getting into a scratch in the melamine.  You should already know what water does to unprotected MDF.  Get the picture?  If you insist on using melamine, keep it in the closet or laundry room. 
 
I used melamine once  [huh]  [bite tongue]  OK, twice  [scared]  [bite tongue]  [bite tongue]  [censored]  [oops]

Seth
 
There is melamine and melamine coated boards out there.
Some, like you find in "box stores" have a patterned texture.....that of the substrate (usually chipboard) or close to see thru' (on mdf)
There are some good ones out there, but at a cost.
I made a set of cabinets, wardrobe and shelves out of melamine faced boards for a disabled guy a few years ago, good boards and much liked by him and family but the cheapest option at the time.
Nowadays, well you need to do the cost analyisis to see what suits.
Oh! brush marks can be eliminated by using a roller, I used a Gloss roller on a headboard to good effect once, painting just isn't my thing by the way.

Rob
 
Rob-GB said:
Oh! brush marks can be eliminated by using a roller, I used a Gloss roller on a headboard to good effect once, painting just isn't my thing by the way.

I wonder if they make melamine with brush marks. Now that would be ironic  [big grin]
 
OK, OK, I took any mention of Melamine out of the subject line.   [embarassed]  [dead horse]

Bill Hendrix said:
I just completed a similar project.  The original paint used in the rest of the space was Ben Moore Satin Impervo, White Dove.

After research, I bought a Earlex Spray Station 5500 and ordered General Finishes Enduro Milk Paint, semi-gloss (same sheen as Satin Impervo), color-matched to the Ben Moore.  General Finishes says their milk paint is "furniture grade".   I thinned the milk paint about 10% with the General Finishes Extender to keep a wet edge and sprayed with the 1.5mm tip.  The color match was perfect, as was the finish sheen.

After this project, we had to replace all the windows in the house, along with all the casing.  This involved 5 different Ben Moore colors.  All five GF milk paints matched perfectly with the Ben Moore.  Gen Fin says they can match any color palette.

The General Finishes milk paint required no priming and dried within 30 minutes to the touch.  I let the first coat stand 24 hours before the second coat to make sure I had a good bond.  

There is no stink of solvents and no ambering with age with water-born paints, and minimal overspray with the Earlex.

I am thrilled with the General Finishes Enduro milk paint and the Earlex sprayer.  I doubt I will ever shoot Satin Impervo with the airless again.

I just bought a small can of General Finishes "Snow White" Milk Paint and did a quick trial of it on a scrap piece of Luan. I literally "just slapped it on" (two coats) with a cheap foam brush, without even the benefit of any sanding before or between. And although there were very visible brush marks on both coats when wet, I was really amazed at how well this paint smoothened out when dry. What I wasn't expecting was how how dull the finish was. The color also didn't exactly match the "Pella White" of the window. On to my questions:

1)  Is it necessary to use General Finishes Top Coat to get a gloss or semi-gloss finish? Which GF Top Coat? (sorry, I see several listed; some authors in other threads have said "pre-cat poly")

2)  Will the above top coat go on as nicely as the Milk Paint? (Nicely = minimal brush marks.)

Bill Hendrix said:
This involved 5 different Ben Moore colors.  All five GF milk paints matched perfectly with the Ben Moore.  Gen Fin says they can match any color palette.

3)  Who does this color matching? I didn't get the impression that Rockler (75 miles away in Buffalo NY, closest dealer) did this. I suppose I might be able to get my friendly local indepent lumber company to do it, but I think it would be a lot of trial and error since the GF Milk Paint wouldn't be "in their computer". Another option is just to live with the slight color mis-match, which might not be so bad with a gloss finish.

4)  Are there other paint options? BTW, I previously tried some Sherwin-Williams Classic Trim and Door paint, and was quite unhappy with it. It was way too thick, even after repeated thinning with distilled water. Just dried too fast to keep a wet edge over a two foot width of plywood.

Thanks for all the great advice, previous and to come ...   [popcorn]
 
waho6o9 said:
MDO (medium density overall) paints up great as well.

and I like it better than plywood.

YMMV

[smile]

Thanks waho609. But is MDO as stiff (strong) in bending as plywood? Also, is it a great maker of fine dust and formaldehyde like MDF? (those would be show-stoppers for me) And it not the base (plywood) that is a problem; it is the brush marks that I'm concerned with.

Shane, Seth, Peter: How do I permanently change the subject (as I have here), or do I have to start a new thread.
 
dicktill said:
waho6o9 said:
MDO (medium density overall) paints up great as well.

and I like it better than plywood.

YMMV

[smile]

Thanks waho609. But is MDO as stiff (strong) in bending as plywood? Also, it it a great maker of fine dust and formaldehyde like MDF? (those would be show-stoppers for me) And it not the base (plywood) that is a problem; it is the brush marks that I'm concerned with.

Shane, Seth, Peter: How do I permanently change the subject (as I have here), or do I have to start a new thread.

It's magic  [wink]

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MDO is a type of plywood. Not at all like MDF.  I generally find i tto be a little better quality than most veneer plywood  as far as the inner plys  are concerned. It usually seems more rigid to me. The paper surface is excellent for painting. Dust level is the same as for any plywood.

Seth
 
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