Plywood - so many options.

ecks79

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
47
Hi gang.

This is my first attempt at building a carcass based project, so i set out looking to get some ply delivered when i realised there are so many options.

Hoop, Kauri, Marine, Construction, Hardwood, Fijian Cedar, Lauan...

So i have some more questions :-)

(1) For a project whereby the sides will be covered with tongue and groove, front will be face framed with hardwood and the top covered with a solid timber top... which ply would be the most appropriate?
(2) What thickness ply would be most appropriate - is there a standard thickness used for furniture (Desks, Cabinets, Coffee tables etc)?
(3) If using plywood for the carcass, would you usually continue to use ply for the draws, or is this completely personal preference?
(4) slightly off topic of the plywood - how would you fix the hardwood top to the carcass to avoid expansion issues, and would you put a top on the carcass or 'frame' the top only?
(5) Is MDF a suitable carcass material? and if not, is this just because of the mess left behind when working with it?

Probably stupid questions, but i figure it's best to have all your bases covered before kicking off :-)

Thanks everyone in advance for any advice you offer!

Tony
 
 
1) I am not familiar with all these different woods.
2) 1/2" ply is fine for the carcass sides, if you really want strength you can use 3/4" but it gets very heavy. 1/4" fine for drawer bottoms.
3) Personally, I do not like to use ply for drawer sides, the reason being that the edges are exposed and look ugly. But nice 1/4" ply is good for drawer bottoms as the sides are concealed. If the drawer is large, you may want to step up to 1/2" ply.
4) Many options here. Assuming the grain runs left to right, you can fix with screws or some other method the front of the top to the carcass. You can use a sliding dovetail and similarly glue it at the front only. Both these methods allow the wood to expand towards the back of the carcass but the fron will remain aligned. If your top has an overhang, you can fix cleats on the underside of the top (like the letter "L" that sits unglued in a dado.
5) I'm not a fan, but it definitely has its uses and its fans, particularly for the large repetitive projects such as kitchens.

Richard.
 
Personally, I'd use 18mm (3/4") ply for carcases - 1/2" is just too thin IMO.

As for drawer boxes, it depends on the look you're going for - a good quality birch ply drawerbox looks great, but not cheap ply. 1/2" is fine for those.

I wouldn't use MDF for carcassing, if it's in a kitchen or other area where moisture is present. It will look a mess in no time. Also, MDF will sag over time, unless it's really well supported.
 
IMO:

3/4" Plywood for carcasses , especially if this is your first build.

Baltic Birch is fine.

Never mdf for carcasses or any parts of a cabinet. People use it for doors. I submit mdf is crap for anything to do with cabinets.

5/8" ply for the bottoms of the drawers with 5/8" solid Maple or other hardwood for the drawer sides with dovetail joinery and the best slides you can afford.

Hardwood face frames.

Hardwood doors with the European type hinges.
 
Thanks guys, for getting me onto the right tracks :-)

I think i have everything covered, now all i need is to understand and learn the basic principles of designing what i am building. I understand there are basic rules and principles to keep proportions etc?

- Is there some good reading material on this subject? or is this not really the case?

Thanks!
Tony
 
Hey thanks guys!

I've just ordered a copy, as well as downloading some eBooks whilst i was at it... now it's just the waiting game for delivery ;-)

Cheers!

T
 
Great! thanks Peter, that's exactly the type of thing i was looking for.

Cheers!

 
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