Pocket hole jigs?

[Jimmy69]

Hi,
I'm after advice on purchasing a pocket hole jig for making plywood kitchen cabinets. I never used one before so don't really know what to look for. It has t be metric and be able to handle 18mm material. I might like to use thinner material in the future. I think I'd prefer one with a built in clamp. I was looking at the Trend then discovered the Kreg K5? I think you can swap out the guides for the supersize guides . It's not for professional use but I want something decent.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Birdhunter]

I have the K5 master system. Works well. Suggest watching some videos as it’s really easy to get misaligned surfaces with pocket holes.

I usually pair pocket holes with Festool Domino tenons. Best of both worlds. The tenons help keep the alignment perfect and the pocket hole screws draw everything together.

 

[xedos]

What exactly are looking to do with the pocket screws ?

I would not be assembling carcasses with that type of joint.

Pocket screws are an American invention, which means metric isn't really thought about.  18mm is close enough to 3/4" which they will be set up for.  That said, Trend may have theirs optimized for metric material and fasteners.

 

[Roseland]

I have a Kreg K4, which works quite well.  Be aware that, because the screw pulls the joint together at an angle, there is a tendency for misalignment if care isn't taken; either biscuits or dominos work well.  If you do not have a biscuit jointer or Domino, drill holes in pairs and clamp the joint together tightly with one of the clamps that fits inside one of the holes before screwing the other one.  Then remove the clamp and screw the other hole.  I hope this makes sense!

Andrew

 

[vkumar]

Dont know where you are located. If in Europe I do believe that the Kreg comes in Metric markings.
But it doesnt really matter. An approximate conversion will lead you Ok results after some experimenting. After all the 3/4 inch plywood is actually about 18 mm, and the 3/4 inch setting works fine.  But test it out on a trial piece first.  Always clamp with the right clamps (as you see in Kreg videos) before you drive the screws, otherwise the joint will twist. Also use the right screws for hardwood (fine pitch) and softwood(coarse pitch)

Hi,
I'm after advice on purchasing a pocket hole jig for making plywood kitchen cabinets. I never used one before so don't really know what to look for. It has t be metric and be able to handle 18mm material. I might like to use thinner material in the future. I think I'd prefer one with a built in clamp. I was looking at the Trend then discovered the Kreg K5? I think you can swap out the guides for the supersize guides . It's not for professional use but I want something decent.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Cheese]

If you're not a fan of all the plastic on the Kreg, UJK makes a nice one in aluminum & steel.
https://www.axminstertools.com/us/ujk-technology-pocket-hole-jig-503726

[attachimg=1]

 

[Jimmy69]

What exactly are looking to do with the pocket screws ?

I would not be assembling carcasses with that type of joint.

Pocket screws are an American invention, which means metric isn't really thought about.  18mm is close enough to 3/4" which they will be set up for.  That said, Trend may have theirs optimized for metric material and fasteners.

I'm going to do kitchen cabs in plywood. I thought pocket holes would be quick and ideal for this type of thing but I'm happy to take advice on other methods. Domino is out of budget for now. I also have a jessem dowel jig but to be honest, it pretty time consuming . perhaps a mix of both?

 

[jeh]

Porter Cable used to make a jig for pocket screws that was better than the cheaper Kreg offerings. It's the 560 Quik Jig Pocket Hole Joinery System. I took a quick look at eBay, but did not see any. You can look at the specs at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-560-Quik-Jig-Pocket-Hole-Joinery-System-560/203162744)

It has not been made in a long time.

 

[Jimmy69]

Porter Cable used to make a jig for pocket screws that was better than the cheaper Kreg offerings. It's the 560 Quik Jig Pocket Hole Joinery System. I took a quick look at eBay, but did not see any. You can look at the specs at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-560-Quik-Jig-Pocket-Hole-Joinery-System-560/203162744)

It has not been made in a long time.

Thanks, I saw that one, looks great but no chance of finding one in the UK(I should of mentioned that). It might be a bit overkill for infrequent use too.

 

[Jimmy69]

I have the K5 master system. Works well. Suggest watching some videos as it’s really easy to get misaligned surfaces with pocket holes.

I usually pair pocket holes with Festool Domino tenons. Best of both worlds. The tenons help keep the alignment perfect and the pocket hole screws draw everything together.

Do you think maybe I could use dowels to keep alignment and pocket holes to pull in?

 

[Birdhunter]

Suggest you bite the bullet and buy the Festool Domino 500. I think it is the perfect tool for cabinets.

 

[JimD]

You don't even need a pocket hole jig to make strong cabinets.  I once did an entire kitchen with through screws.  The carcases were oak veneer plywood and I plugged the screw holes with oak plugs where they would show.  It is much easier to plug through screw holes than pocket screw holes.  The main thing that makes the joint is glue regardless of what sort of screw you use.  I put a simple open shelving unit for a utility room today with through screws.  I also used very shallow dados to locate the pieces.  I cut the dados with my router riding my track saw track. 

I look at the Kreg jig as the standard for pocket screws.  I use a different one that is metal that is not sold any more.  But you have to be careful to not over drive screws, especially when using the 3/4 setting for 18mm plywood.  If you can find a jig with metric settings it would be preferable.  The simplest was to align the parts while driving the pocket screws would be biscuits.  DeWalt and Porter Cable biscuit joiners are pretty good and not very expensive.  Much cheaper than a domino (which I have and like).  You could also drive in pin nails but they may not hold.  Clamps also work sometimes.  But biscuits or dominos will pretty much always work.

My last house had site built kitchen cabinets.  They looked nice but the joints were all glued butt joints nailed together with 18 gauge brads.  They held up fine.  Stock moldings were used to dress them up.  You are unlikely to make anything this crude, I would not.  But we lived in that house 15 years or so and never had a problem with them - other than it bugged me.  I eventually remade the island, at least.  I mention this experience to let you know that the negative things others have posted should not make you think you have to spend a lot on equipment to make a serviceable kitchen.  Nicer tools are more fun to use but they are not necessary and many people would not be able to find the difference in the cabinets. 

 

[semenza]

I have a Kreg K3 (discontinued, but try Ebay for new old stock) that I have used for several thousand pocket holes and it is still going strong. I can't speak to the K5, but I  suspect  a little less durability on the clamp on that one. Previously I had a K4 which performed well too and has the same type of build as the K3. 

Seth

 

[pixelated]

Several years ago, I built a cabinet to house the drawer dishwasher we bought, using pocket screws and biscuits +glue. It was plenty strong and stood up to holding the 100-ish pound drawer fine.
As mentioned, even butt joints will work too, I would say that getting everything cut accurately and joined squarely is more important than how they are joined.
Your dowel jig will work for adding some strength and alignment. That pocket jig from Axminster looks quite nice, and the price is similar to Kreg jigs.

Also, as mentioned, a biscuit joiner will be a step up in terms of ease of use without being a huge expense. if you’re going to build a whole kitchen’s worth of cabinets, a Domino might earn its keep, they take the ease of use to a whole other level, but they are a bit dear for a DIY’er to buy.

My dishwasher got retired and replaced, and the cabinet got re-purposed to hold my table saw, it’s still rock-steady. The partial dis-assembly was harder than building it.

 

[Martin Johnson]

I have the K5 and the Armor tool.  Both work...the K5 has better tolerances, but the auto depth adjustment on the armor is nice.
wish I could combine the two.  My only advice in using these is to make sure you clamp the work piece into alignment before screwing...these systems tend to pull the material out of alignment if you are not careful, so clamping is a must in my opinion.

Otherwise, it is a fantastic system for quickly putting non visible components together...then again... a little glue and brad nailer would probably accomplish much the same.

Hi,
I'm after advice on purchasing a pocket hole jig for making plywood kitchen cabinets. I never used one before so don't really know what to look for. It has t be metric and be able to handle 18mm material. I might like to use thinner material in the future. I think I'd prefer one with a built in clamp. I was looking at the Trend then discovered the Kreg K5? I think you can swap out the guides for the supersize guides . It's not for professional use but I want something decent.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Jimmy69]

All good advice - thanks. I hear what people are saying about buying a Domino and TBH, if I'm going to buy one it should be before I build the kitchen and not after. I've got a few projects that would benefit including bedroom drawers and wardrobe, re-fit the office and a kitchen island. Also planned is a bike shed but I'm unsure if the DF500 is useful for larger jobs.

  I also need the LR 32 and hole rail to do shelf holes and hinges( I already have an OF1010) which got me thinking about the Mafell DDF40. That covers the domino and LR 32 doesn't it? Only thing it doesn't do is the hinge holes but I have a jig and bit for that.
What unnerves me about the DDF40 is the lack of wiggle room and not too many YT demos. I've watched the Peter Millard one and it does look awesome. Anyone here got one?

 

[Cheese]

1. I hear what people are saying about buying a Domino and TBH, if I'm going to buy one it should be before I build the kitchen and not after.

2. What unnerves me about the DDF40 is the lack of wiggle room and not too many YT demos. I've watched the Peter Millard one and it does look awesome. Anyone here got one?

1. Now that's funny...and here I thought I was the only person to purchase a tool after I no longer needed it.  [eek]

2. There are several, as in many members that have the DDF40 or the DD40P.  I know [member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] does.

Just start another thread asking for that info and the Mafell owners will appear.  [smile]

 

[Birdhunter]

I have the DD40F doweling machine. It requires a much higher level of exactness than does the Domino. For many jobs, it is the perfect tool. It is a beautifully finished tool with great engineering. There are good videos on the Timberwolf site.

If I was to buy only one joinery tool, it would be the Domino. I think it has more flexibility than the Mafell. Once you get used to the Domino, joinery goes very fast. I use the method of one side uses the narrow mortise and the other side uses the medium mortise. This allows me to tap the sides into perfect alignment.

For the work you describe, the 500 seems a better fit than the 700.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Dowels are good if you can work very precisely. The Duo dowel machine is very nice but no wiggle room.

Pocket holes can be used on material as thin as 12mm, if you’re careful setting cutter depth.

Dominos (4mm size) can be used on material as thin as 10mm if you add a shim plate (5mm or more) to the fence.

 

[Mario Turcot]

If you use pocket holes, keep in mind that it is stronger to drill the pocket holes from ther outside of the carcass. I have both the DF 500 and Kreg K5, my favorite method is the DF 500, fast and accurate.