Pocket Hole Joinery

WelshWood

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Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
194
Hey guys,

Looking to get a pocket hole jig soon and wondering what you would recommend? Seems like alot of people go for the kreg version, but after seeing the UJK versions i'm a little torn..

Thanks in advance,

~WW
 
I have a Kreg K5 and think it's great, but the real issue comes when you try to join both bits of wood without them moving out of sync. I have a couple of Kreg clamps but still find they move, I have been recommended the Bench Dogs clamp, but since buying one I haven't actually used any pocket holes.
 
WelshWood,

I've had an older Kreg (K3?) for years now and have been thinking of upgrading to the K5.  I really like the front quick adjust clamp.  While that UJK one looks really well made, it is more similar to the older one I have (except mine has no chip collection).  If you lived in the states, I'd recommend Kreg just because you can get all the stuff (new drill bits, screws, etc.) at the local big box store.  Don't know if there is a brand that is more convenient that way in the UK.

Ed,
There are all kinds of tricks to use to get things to stay in place with pocket holes.  But, I have not found a "pocket hole clamp" that works.  I sometimes clamp stop blocks to keep the wood from moving in the direction of the hole angle.  I have used biscuits and dowels in conjunction with pocket holes to maintain alignment.  But, usually I clamp the assembly nice and tight as if I was gluing it, then drive the screws and unclamp.  Take a couple pieces and play around with them for an hour or so and you can figure out what does and doesn't work.  One thing for sure, the Kreg clamps don't work.
 
Frank,
The clamps are still needed during assembly to keep the pieces from moving when the screw goes in.
 
Stoli said:
Frank,
The clamps are still needed during assembly to keep the pieces from moving when the screw goes in.

Exactly, the K5 jig is as good as any other at drilling the holes, that isn't the issue, it is that as the screws go in they have a tendency to move the wood which then makes slightly offset joints.
 
Why would you pick the K5 over the K4?

seems like the K4 has more accessories whilst the K5 advantage seems to be the wider base?

~WW
 
K5 has the front actuated quick clamp too.

K4, you have to reach behind, which can be a pain if you're doing large sheet goods.
 
WelshWood said:
Hey guys,

Looking to get a pocket hole jig soon and wondering what you would recommend? Seems like alot of people go for the kreg version, but after seeing the UJK versions i'm a little torn..

Thanks in advance,

~WW

I also choose the UJK Pocket Hole Jig for the following reasons:
- It's metric
- It uses regular Torx screws and no Robertson like Kreg
- It can do 12 mm board on the same Jig
- It has a vacuum hose connection
- Mainly made of steel/aluminium, few plastic parts
- Sold (made?) by Axminster

An I like it, it does what it promises!
I especially like the Centrotec compatible drill bit and the long Torx screw bit which are available from Axminster as well.
 
neeleman said:
WelshWood said:
Hey guys,

Looking to get a pocket hole jig soon and wondering what you would recommend? Seems like alot of people go for the kreg version, but after seeing the UJK versions i'm a little torn..

Thanks in advance,

~WW

I also choose the UJK Pocket Hole Jig for the following reasons:
- It's metric
- It uses regular Torx screws and no Robertson like Kreg
- It can do 12 mm board on the same Jig
- It has a vacuum hose connection
- Mainly made of steel/aluminium, few plastic parts
- Sold (made?) by Axminster

An I like it, it does what it promises!
I especially like the Centrotec compatible drill bit and the long Torx screw bit which are available from Axminster as well.

But it can be a pain to get the screws (UJK) to enter the holes generated by the drill bit (UJK) within the jig (UJK) at the correct angle using the long torx bit (UJK). Sort of feels like the drill isn't creating a big enough hole to allow the screw heads to flow freely enough inside to hit the sweet spot. Really hard to describe, but it's come up before and I wasn't the only one with the problem. Had a number of misses with it and it doesn't happen at all with my freehand clamping Kreg jig.

Dust extraction on the UJK is an expensive option in my opinion too, unless you get it in a kit (or unless the price has changed since I last checked). I bought mine in a kit that wasn't comprehensive enough to include it.
 
The K4 and K5 have dust extraction too. It requires a $4 Bosch adapter if you want to use the Festool hose though.

I switched to all Torx and hid my Robertson bits. :)
 
If you get a K5 drop a PM to Droc7683 and see if he will print you a dust port for the K5/Festool CTL. Its brilliant.
 
Ed Bray said:
...but the real issue comes when you try to join both bits of wood without them moving out of sync. I have a couple of Kreg clamps but still find they move

I second that - especially with right angle joins. (Less so a problem on end to end joins as you can use a clamp to keep the flat surfaces aligned).

Someone here had a good suggestion of drilling 2 Kreg holes right next to each other (especially at the end of the pieces), and using the right angle clamp in one hole whilst driving the other. This gives a lot firmer grip (and therefore less slippage) than using the next pocket hole down, which is often 15cm away.

Having bought a Domino, I find that these are really complementary tools to one another - the domino gives great alignment (no moving out of place) and strength, and the pocket holes clamp and add even more strength. But of course that's more time and work in some instances where you just want a quick knock up.
 
Ed Bray said:
Stoli said:
Frank,
The clamps are still needed during assembly to keep the pieces from moving when the screw goes in.

Exactly, the K5 jig is as good as any other at drilling the holes, that isn't the issue, it is that as the screws go in they have a tendency to move the wood which then makes slightly offset joints.

Many times I will use the pocket screws in concert with dominoes to prevent the movement mentioned.  The combination has worked very well for me. 
 
Decided to go for the K5 in the end, seems more suitable for the work that I do.

As a side note.. where do you find the best place to buy the screws/plugs from?

Thanks in advance,

~WW
 
I usually use a domino like WOW does.  A domino as an alignment tool.  the pocket screws to clamp the glue up of the domino'd joint....they work hand in hand for me.  I use dominos without pocket screws, but not the other way around unless it's a table top because the pocket screws DO often PULL everything out of alignment even when clamps are used.  The Dominos keep everything where it should be.  i glue up and then ....screw up and move on knowing everything is tight aligned and clamped (by the screws) it save a lot space when assembling lots of pieces and reserves the clamps for where i either cant screw or a screw isn't appropriate.  I use the Kreg K5.  It's great except for the stupid dust extraction cover which loves to pop off all the time.  I just glued it on.  I'll probably regret that one day....My next move is a foreman for sure when the ever elusive space appears (unless something better comes along) because I hate having to set crap up and break it down.
 
Jig got delivered earlier this morning! Will post a review when I get to use it on the weekend!

~WW
 
GRK makes a complete line of pan head screws that work perfectly...I'm sure there are others a well, I just prefer grk because of  the tech in the screw.  it sucks when the face pops off becuase the screw doesn't "tap/drill" at it's tip as it's driven.  I rarely split anything and almost never have to drill before driving.  If it's a tropical like tigerwood, or ipe i do drill before driving otherwise i've found it to be unnecessary
 
eddomak said:
Someone here had a good suggestion of drilling 2 Kreg holes right next to each other (especially at the end of the pieces), and using the right angle clamp in one hole whilst driving the other. This gives a lot firmer grip (and therefore less slippage) than using the next pocket hole down, which is often 15cm away.

This is what I do. I have the old Kreg jig which I have converted to pedal clamping, and I drill holes in pairs. I have 5 right angle clamps and run one clamp in each pair of holes, use a position adjuster (also known as a hammer) to align the pieces perfectly, then run screws into the other holes. If the RACs are adjusted correctly (so they are quite tight) then the two pieces will not move out of alignment.
 
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