Polyurethane as a finish?

[wow]

I was answering another post and it got me to thinking that I almost never see anyone post about using Polyurethane as a finish? It is a long-time favorite of mine, as it doesn't raise the grain or yellow/discolor.

Being a hobby shop, I usually use a rattle can of Satin Polyurethane Spray. I prefer Sherwin-Williams stuff, but have also used Rustoleum and Krylon. I have also sprayed Poly with my HVLP gun, but it's usually more trouble to set it up and clean it than it is worth with the small projects I typically do.

So does anybody else Satin Polyurethane? If not, please educate me on why not?

 

[Stephen B]

[size=11pt]
Hi WOW

I think there are two reasons -

1. Visit any reasonably quality furniture store, in Australia at least,  and you will see that oil and wax finishes are more in fashion.

2. For the DIY without spray equipment, oil finishes are a simpler more aesthetically pleasing result.

At my weekend position in a TY/hardware store we seem to be selling more and more oil type finishes [such as Tung based and Danish] than poly, and of the poly 'wipe on' is more popular than spray or brush.

Obviously there may be different trends in Europe or NA or ?
What do others think?

Edit. On reflection could add shellac to pt 1 above.

 

[Sparktrician]

Take a walk through the lower-end furniture shops and you'll see many photo-finished surfaces on which satin and gloss poly have been applied.  At a quick glance they may look OK, but over time the look gets old, and really quickly.  I think many of the FOG members love good wood too much to hide it with crappy finishes.  That having been said, I have used wipe-on poly (satin) on a solid cherry coffee table, and it came out rather well, especially when buffed out using Platin 500.  YMMV. 

 

[Paul G]

I have a hard time calling my post educational, but I often turn to spar varnishes for the water resistance. Other finishes may do well also for that but it's just been my default. I figured if it will protect wood from the sea it will do the same from coffee and tea. I'm not making fine furniture though, I'm talking countertops that invite the stray beverage container and I've had sweaty icewater cups sitting for a day with no problem. If I needed something non-yellowing I'd be inclined to try General Finishes, I had good success working with their clear coat over their white milk paint on kitchen cabinets. They're not yet a year old so can't call it a long-term trial but so far holding up very well.

 

[jacko9]

Finishes will drive you crazy unless you determine what your trying to accomplish over time.  A web search will reveal a lot of information but, from my experience oil and wax looks great but needs to be replenished often depending on usage.  Oil/varnish/wax is not much better in protection but still looks nice when applied.

Do you want a penetrating finish or a film finish?  The penetrating finish will need frequent attention depending on the use (table top) A wipe on varnish or a sprayed on hard finish will look good and last along time but lack the depth of the penetration finish!

My best results with Poly has been with Minwax Wipe On Poly for a finish that doesn't need the protection of an every day kitchen table.

Jack

 

[tiralie]

So does anybody else Satin Polyurethane?

Yes, I use it all the time.
I just made some cabinet color samples for a client using GF milkpaint coated with satin polyurethane.
[attachimg=#]
Tim

 

[semenza]

Take a walk through the lower-end furniture shops and you'll see many photo-finished surfaces on which satin and gloss poly have been applied.  At a quick glance they may look OK, but over time the look gets old, and really quickly.  I think many of the FOG members love good wood too much to hide it with crappy finishes.  That having been said, I have used wipe-on poly (satin) on a solid cherry coffee table, and it came out rather well, especially when buffed out using Platin 500.  YMMV.  

When you say poly, you mean oil based, right?  And did you use the 500 Platin on the Rotex (150) ? Aggressive mode?

Looking to try the buffing on a current project that is finished with satin polyurethane.

Seth

 

[Scott B.]

We use oil modifieds and waterbornes. This recently replaced ZAR Ultramax as our "house" clear.

[attachimg=#]

 

[chrisrosenb]

I have been using oil based satin poly for close to 40 years.
I use it on about 95% of the jobs I do in the shop.

 

[wow]

I have been using oil based satin poly for close to 40 years.
I use it on about 95% of the jobs I do in the shop.

Which brand(s) do you like?

 

[chrisrosenb]

I have been using oil based satin poly for close to 40 years.
I use it on about 95% of the jobs I do in the shop.

Which brand(s) do you like?

Minwax

 

[semenza]

We use oil modifieds and waterbornes. This recently replaced ZAR Ultramax as our "house" clear.

[attachimg=#]

How is this one for hardness, clarity, etc?  The water based that  I have tried have a cloudy look, don't get a warm amber effect, and are much softer.

Seth

 

[Sparktrician]

Take a walk through the lower-end furniture shops and you'll see many photo-finished surfaces on which satin and gloss poly have been applied.  At a quick glance they may look OK, but over time the look gets old, and really quickly.  I think many of the FOG members love good wood too much to hide it with crappy finishes.  That having been said, I have used wipe-on poly (satin) on a solid cherry coffee table, and it came out rather well, especially when buffed out using Platin 500.  YMMV.  

When you say poly, you mean oil based, right?  And did you use the 500 Platin on the Rotex (150) ? Aggressive mode?

Looking to try the buffing on a current project that is finished with satin polyurethane.

Seth

Yup.  It was oil-based.  I did use the Platin 500 on my RO 125 on Rotex mode first, then on RO mode.  I used the method that Steve Bace teaches for solid surface buff-outs. 

 

[leakyroof]

We use oil modifieds and waterbornes. This recently replaced ZAR Ultramax as our "house" clear.

[attachimg=#]

How is this one for hardness, clarity, etc?  The water based that  I have tried have a cloudy look, don't get a warm amber effect, and are much softer.

Seth

  the Enduro Var  finish from General Finishes is a water based polyurethane, and it gives you a warmer, more amber finish than many other Water based finishes. 

 

[rst]

Thumbs up on satin poly! [big grin]  I've used Minwax, Zar, and Sherman Williams; all great products.  I too have liked the canned spray versions for guicky, small jobs.  For jobs where final finish is important, I spray a lite coat, after drying ,sand with 240 grit and re-coat.  After 24 hours I go over it with 320 wet sanding.  I finish off with xtra fine conditioning pads and coat with Johsons floor wax and buff job.  My first job out of high school was as a stainer/finisher in a custom kitchen cabinet factory.  Believe it of not, we sprayed every wood excepting pine (due to blotching) with water prior to staining.  Afterward, the parts were sealer sprayed, sanded with the 240, finish coated, sanded with 320, oil sanded with 400 grit, assembled, hardware installed and shipped.  In 1972 the average kitchen cost $12000.00, this was high end stuff.

 

[chrisrosenb]

We use oil modifieds and waterbornes. This recently replaced ZAR Ultramax as our "house" clear.

[attachimg=#]

How is this one for hardness, clarity, etc?  The water based that  I have tried have a cloudy look, don't get a warm amber effect, and are much softer.

Seth

   the Enduro Var  finish from General Finishes is a water based polyurethane, and it gives you a warmer, more amber finish than many other Water based finishes. 

Can the water based finishes be applied over oil based stains?

 

[tjbnwi]

We use oil modifieds and waterbornes. This recently replaced ZAR Ultramax as our "house" clear.

[attachimg=#]

How is this one for hardness, clarity, etc?  The water based that  I have tried have a cloudy look, don't get a warm amber effect, and are much softer.

Seth

   the Enduro Var  finish from General Finishes is a water based polyurethane, and it gives you a warmer, more amber finish than many other Water based finishes. 

Can the water based finishes be applied over oil based stains?

Yes, with proper preparation.

Tom

 

[semenza]

  OK. Tried Platin 1000 grit with ETS150/3 on Minwax satin poly (oil based). I had 500 as well but decided to play it safe and start with 1000 to see how it worked.  Came out very nice and the surface feels like  ................ silk. I think it was four coats of poly sanded every other with 320 Brilliant to fill pores and smooth it as well as building some protection. Then one coat and the 1000gr Platin.

Seth