Jalvis said:If your painting DONT use poplar.
I've tried and tried to use poplar for paint grade due to price and ease of machining but the extra labor in applying the finish has me using maple exclusively.
CarolinaNomad said:Just a question, why not use mdf instead of poplar?
Jim Kirkpatrick said:I respectfully and strongly disagree. Poplar takes paint well, I've never had a problem. It also machines nicely, low in cost and there is very little waste in terms of knots and crazy grain.
Tim Raleigh said:Jalvis said:If your painting DONT use poplar.
I've tried and tried to use poplar for paint grade due to price and ease of machining but the extra labor in applying the finish has me using maple exclusively.
Yep in a production situation (time is money) it would be an issue but, it really depends on what kind of finish your customer wants/needs. Yes, without the proper preparation, there is more grain that transfers through the finish than maple, but sometimes that is the look and feel that folks want.
A primer that powders up well will give you a great finish.
Unless the 50 year old female is "hanging from the chandeliers" type poplar should be fine.
Tim
mattdh said:they are getting painted. but its a hand finished faux painting(not by me) not a sprayed glass smooth finish. what were your problems painting poplar? most worried about the softness. they are for a single 50 year old female with no kids in a basement bar.
tjbnwi said:Sherwin Williams Wall and Wood primer. Heavy bodied, sands well. solves the afore mentioned problems.
Shane Holland said:tjbnwi said:Sherwin Williams Wall and Wood primer. Heavy bodied, sands well. solves the afore mentioned problems.
Yeah, using a quality primer and paint can definitely make a difference. Good point, Tom.
bruegf said:Poplar makes for some beautiful pieces if finished naturally, here's a pic of my 20 yr old dining room table. It was finished naturally, no stain, with a 2 part conversion varnish.
Fred