Popular Woodworking sharpening course.

Personally the breakthrough I recently had in sharpening was buying the Veritas MkII honing guide, a 400/1000 grit double sided diamond stone and some 1500, 2000 & 3000 wet and dry lapping paper. I can get my chisels and planes to what is quite literally razor sharpness.
 
It is a nice jig. I am now trying to move on to freehand. I noticed that even with a jig, I'd go far too long without honing. I need to get  comfortable with grinding. The nice thing about grinding a hollow parallel to the cutting edge is it makes it much easier to hone the bevel because you can "feel" the angle.

Sandpaper/ honing film also works well. Ron Hock has info regarding many sharpening media in his book, and blogs about it as well.
 
I also have a leather strop for regular touch up to the edge between use, I find this prolongs the duration between needing to hone.

I find that for me, the key to honing often enough isn't about whether I use a guide or not, but whether I have a dedicated clear space to lay the stone and lapping paper out as I'm working
 
bobfog said:
I also have a leather strop for regular touch up to the edge between use, I find this prolongs the duration between needing to hone.

I find that for me, the key to honing often enough isn't about whether I use a guide or not, but whether I have a dedicated clear space to lay the stone and lapping paper out as I'm working

Reading this I realized having the sharpening items handy is probably just as important as the details of what items are used.  Watching the Paul Sellers videos he has a board with several diamond stones that is usually within reach on or near his bench. 

I was always taught to have a place for everything and keep everything in its place, but keeping sharpening stuff stored away in drawers or boxes while working with tools that need sharp edges is likely an exception to an otherwise good idea.
 
Jeff Zanin said:
bobfog said:
I also have a leather strop for regular touch up to the edge between use, I find this prolongs the duration between needing to hone.

I find that for me, the key to honing often enough isn't about whether I use a guide or not, but whether I have a dedicated clear space to lay the stone and lapping paper out as I'm working

Reading this I realized having the sharpening items handy is probably just as important as the details of what items are used.  Watching the Paul Sellers videos he has a board with several diamond stones that is usually within reach on or near his bench. 

I was always taught to have a place for everything and keep everything in its place, but keeping sharpening stuff stored away in drawers or boxes while working with tools that need sharp edges is likely an exception to an otherwise good idea.

I agree with both of you. Once I make time(This summer?) I plan on building a sharpening station with locking casters. Having to pull that stuff out and lay it out etc. also plays a part in stopping to hone/ sharpen.

I found a hand crank grinder, so I will need to have space for that as well.

I am also a fan of a strop. I have one that I use often. Now I just need to work on my hand tool and sharpening skills. :-[
 
+1 on the Veritas MKii -- and probably the deluxe set so you can sharpen both plane and chisel blades with it.

Don't know what your sharpening sense is, but it has always been un-intuitive for me.  But after getting the guide last month I've been able to get a consistently sharp edge on all my blades, and it's not really a hassle to touch up in the middle of a project.

bobfog said:
Personally the breakthrough I recently had in sharpening was buying the Veritas MkII honing guide, a 400/1000 grit double sided diamond stone and some 1500, 2000 & 3000 wet and dry lapping paper. I can get my chisels and planes to what is quite literally razor sharpness.
 
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