Portico, Pool and Beadboard

[tiralie]

Here is a picture of the portico as we started to demo it.
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You can see that quite a bit of rot has deteriorated the pine bead board on the outside as well as the plywood and OSB sheeting. The rain and snow were not kind to the top. It really wasn't roofed properly with very little over hang. There was some quick and dirty repairs done to this, which I think added to water damning up under the rubber. In addition the the roof of the house is quite flat (mansard) where the roof joins to the portico so water and ice tend to build up there.
Here is a drawing of the design for the new portico.
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The fascia will be built up with 2 layers of 1/4" plywood for support, a layer of 1/2 PVC then dentil molding and another layer of PVC with a 1/2 round over and finally caped off with a shingle mold. The soffit will be sheeted in MDO with covered beadboard and finished with a cove molding.
The Top will be covered with 2 layers of 1/2" MDO one flat and one at a pitch to keep the water off.
Here is a cross section of the layers.
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The top will eventually be covered with either copper or aluminum.
Here is a picture of the pool that I see each time I pass the gate. While the owners, who have been away have told me I could use it, I really haven't had the time unfortunately.
Tim
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[Brice Burrell]

Interesting job Tim.  I did something very similar 5-6 years ago (minus the skylight and beadboard).  The hard part for us was framing the stop gutter (or what ever the proper term would be for a portico).  Wrapping the fascia and trim around the front wasn't as easy as I thought it would be.  Like you we went with 1/2" PVC (sheet ripped) but it only came in 10' lengths at the time.  Splicing them together was tough.

As always love your Sketchup models! [thumbs up]  I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out.  I'd be eating my lunch pool side everyday..

 

[jmbfestool]

Looks a fun job!    I have found with the curved cedar decking job I'm on curved stuff always takes so much longer!

Waiting to see the finished item [popcorn]

 

[tiralie]

Interesting job Tim.  I did something very similar 5-6 years ago (minus the skylight and beadboard).  The hard part for us was framing the stop gutter (or what ever the proper term would be for a portico).  

What do you mean by "stop gutter"? Maybe this is something I am missing?
Here is a couple pictures of the structure after demolition.

The underside...
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...and from the front...
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Wrapping the fascia and trim around the front wasn't as easy as I thought it would be.  Like you we went with 1/2" PVC (sheet ripped) but it only came in 10' lengths at the time.  Splicing them together was tough.

Damn, you got me worried. I have a 4'x 12' sheet of 1/2" PVC. For the first layer I will be cutting two pieces 10 3/4" wide. I was going to join them with biscuits and then butt glue them (PVC glue rather than scarf joint them and then wrap that.
Do you see any problems with that?

As always love your Sketchup models! [thumbs up]  

Thanks. The hardest part was figuring out how to draw the sloping roof. The transition from a square cut out to a curve creates all kinds of problems in Sketchup. I am sure there are couple ways to do it.

I'd be eating my lunch pool side everyday..

Yes, it's a nice spot. It's quite close to the lake (Ontario) as well.

 

[Rob Z]

Hi Tim, that looks like a fun project to do. 

Maybe Brice will remember this, but there was a good article about building a curved portico  in either JLC or FH within the last 5 years or so.  I wish I could remember exactly...I think you would enjoy the article.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Tim, the gutter was sort of a box gutter if you will (but that's not really a good description either).  I don't know how the water is dealt with on your project, maybe there's just  drip edge.

In hindsight I think I would have tried pre-assembling our lengths with glue and pocket screws instead scarf joints (and allowing the glue to cure before installing).          

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Hi Tim, that looks like a fun project to do.  

Maybe Brice will remember this, but there was a good article about building a curved portico  in either JLC or FH within the last 5 years or so.  I wish I could remember exactly...I think you would enjoy the article.

Rob,

Curved portico build was in Fine Homebuilding issue 61, page 67 and a plain portico was in issue 105, page 72.  My guess is you're recalling something from JLC, though.

 

[tiralie]

Hi Tim, that looks like a fun project to do. 

Maybe Brice will remember this, but there was a good article about building a curved portico  in either JLC or FH within the last 5 years or so.  I wish I could remember exactly...I think you would enjoy the article.

Thanks, it's a bit like putting a puzzle together.
Rob I am referencing that article (by Mike Sloggatt) quite closely.
Tim

 

[tiralie]

Tim, the gutter was sort of a box gutter if you will (but that's not really a good description either).  I don't know how the water is dealt with on your project, maybe there's just  drip edge.

Yup just a drip edge, although I am not responsible for hiring the copper or roofing guy I will work with whomever the homeowner finally hires. The copper guy they were thinking of hiring does a lot of work in the neighborhood and we have already met.

In hindsight I think I would have tried pre-assembling our lengths with glue and pocket screws instead scarf joints (and allowing the glue to cure before installing).          

The Versatec book/directions say to use a scarf joint which I am considering. I expect to have some "puckering" at that joint as I wrap it around. I think I should be able to sand that flat with my trusty RAS or RO 150.
BTW, the circumference is about 18', just under 130" in  diameter. The contractor who made this had wrapped two layers of 3/8" plywood on this thing. That must have been a bit of a struggle.
Tim

 

[tiralie]

Curved portico build was in Fine Homebuilding issue 61, page 67 and a plain portico was in issue 105, page 72.

I will check it out, I forgot about Fine Homebuilding. Thanks Ken.

Now I remember why I don't use Fine Homebuilding much...they don't have online access to their archive. Ya, they have a great index and searc, but if you don't have the magazine you either have to order it as a back issue or you are outta luck.
JLC works great, gotta send them a note.
Tim

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Curved portico build was in Fine Homebuilding issue 61, page 67 and a plain portico was in issue 105, page 72.

I will check it out, I forgot about Fine Homebuilding. Thanks Ken.

Now I remember why I don't use Fine Homebuilding much...they don't have online access to their archive. Ya, they have a great index and searc, but if you don't have the magazine you either have to order it as a back issue or you are outta luck.
JLC works great, gotta send them a note.
Tim

Tim, Fine Homebuilding and Fine Woodworking do have online archives through the parent publisher Taunton, but they have a monthly fee.  They do offer a free 30 day trial for each, though.  You can also do like I did and purchase the archives on disc.

 

[tiralie]

After the demo and removing the rotted middle panel and moving the two front columns out of the way I replaced a couple of the rotted 2x10 rafter and then attached some 1/2" MDO to the underside.
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After that I attached two layers of 1/4" plywood ripped to 11" wide. Bending them went ok. While the first layer followed the curve, there was some odd dips and bends, the second layer of 1/4" plywood soothed out some of the uneveness in the curve. After the two layers of plywood was applied I attached one layer of 1/2" pvc 10 3/4" wide. I made the PVC layer a little narrower than the plywood layer so I could adjust the height of the PVC so it left me with the proper reveal on the bottom. After the top layer was attached I ripped and rounded over the next layer. Because I wanted to quickly enclose the structure to prevent any more water from entering the house I continued to apply the layers of PVC and shingle molding before applying the dentil blocks.

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After applying the shingle mold I installed the roof and then attached the dentil blocks with PVC glue and pins.

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Here is the finished Portico before the copper has been applied.

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[tiralie]

In hindsight I think I would have tried pre-assembling our lengths with glue and pocket screws instead scarf joints (and allowing the glue to cure before installing).          

Well that didn't work too well for me. Actually fitting the PVC joint on the side would have been easier and faster. As it was I had to fill the two separated pieces because they separated (screws pulled out and glue bond broke) when I lifted them up on the scaffolding. Otherwise everything went according to plan.
Here's a close up of the joint before filling it with the "fill and fastener"

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[Rob Z]

Nice project, Tim.  How much did you do on-site vs. fabrication in the shop?

Please post a picture once the copper has been installed.

 

[tiralie]

Nice project, Tim.  How much did you do on-site vs. fabrication in the shop?

Please post a picture once the copper has been installed.

Thanks Rob.

All the fabrication was done on site. I used my TS 55 to rip the plywood and the PVC (joined a 3000 and 1400 rail together for the 12 foot lengths) and rounded over the edges using my router.
As Mike Sloggett did in his build of the Portico from JLC, I laid out the lengths of bead board I needed on the ground using a template I laid out on the MDO. It was much easier to bring a stack of precut lengths up the the scaffold rather than wrestle with 10 - 14 foot lengths up in the air.
I left the underside OSB on both the left and right hand sides because I didn't need or want to touch the two back columns as they are supporting the structure above it. I am fairly certain those columns are not adequate enough to support the weight of the bump out above but there doesn't appear to be any signs that there is any significant movement. There was a spot on OSB on the underside, back left of the portico that was rotted through that I filled with some Bondo and sanded down with my RAS 115.

I sanded the bottom edge (even) with the RAS 115, RO 90 and DTS 400. All worked as I imagined they would. Actually the RO 90 outperformed my exceptions even in random orbit mode with the delta disc.

They are putting the copper in today and should be done this week as long as the weather holds out. I will post a picture when they are done.
Tim

 

[Brice Burrell]

Looks great Tim. [thumbs up]

In hindsight I think I would have tried pre-assembling our lengths with glue and pocket screws instead scarf joints (and allowing the glue to cure before installing).          

Well that didn't work too well for me. Actually fitting the PVC joint on the side would have been easier and faster. As it was I had to fill the two separated pieces because they separated (screws pulled out and glue bond broke) when I lifted them up on the scaffolding. Otherwise everything went according to plan.
Here's a close up of the joint before filling it with the "fill and fastener"

Sorry it didn't work out, live and learn I guess. 

 

[tiralie]

Sorry it didn't work out, live and learn I guess.   

No worries ;D, the way I was going to do it, wouldn't have worked either...no big deal...live and learn for sure.
Might work with 3/4, but I think I would go with a half lap next time just to see how that would work.
Tim

 

[honeydoman]

Tim. Nice project you got there! 

 

[tiralie]

Nice project, Tim.  How much did you do on-site vs. fabrication in the shop?

Please post a picture once the copper has been installed.

Here are the pictures of the copper:
Installation
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...a close up of the right side

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and the front

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[AlexThePalex]

Nice looking indeed. Maybe you already posted it and I missed it, but what is the function of the copper exactly?