Problem with the MSV D8/25 domino connector.

[peter halle]

[member=53905]Gregor[/member]

I just so happen to have my MFT/3, my Domino 500, my CT-22, and a connector set all sitting in my living room right now.  I will try to show results later after I deal with some more pressing (no pun intended) issues.

Peter

 

[Gregor]

I just so happen to have my MFT/3, my Domino 500, my CT-22, and a connector set all sitting in my living room right now.

Sounds like a nicely decorated living room

 

[peter halle]

My living room has been multipurpose at times over the years.  The Best / worst was when I had stacks of systainers 12' tall next to the Christmas tree.

Anyway,  I broke out the Domino 500 connector set for the first time other than to just look at it.  I imitated the joint the Sedge showed and the one that the OP was asking about.

Here are images of what the result was.  It should be noted that you can get the connectors snug or you can get them more than snug.  I suspect that on the side that shows "not tapped in" I may have tightened more than others would which would also help reduce any gap.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

Peter

 

[Birdhunter]

Beautiful dog!

 

[peter halle]

Beautiful dog!

[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] , that's Indiana Jones.  He is my only dog since Mr. Moose who is not afraid of power tool noise.

 

[Birdhunter]

My pup, Abigail, a Boykin Spaniel, supervises my woodworking. However, it’s often with her eyes closed and laying in a pile of wood chips. When it’s time for lunch or dinner, she comes to me and stares. She’s good company as I expect Indiana Jones is for you.

 

[Gregor]

[member=1674]Peter Halle[/member]
To get you right: for flush settings the holding tabs have better been pushed in beyond flush?

 

[peter halle]

It will work out without a gap if the non-flanged side (which goes into the shelf) is tapped in. 

Peter

 

[ear3]

Rather than start a new thread, let me just post a quick question on the mid panel connectors in this one:

When using the mid-panel connectors (either the domino mortise version or the LR32 version) what is the maximum thickness of the board you can get away with?  Is it the 28mm listed in the specs (which would be equal to a derssed 5/4 board)?  Has anyone here tried pushing it to that maximum?

I ask because I'm building a large, multi-columned book shelving unit, and trying to decide whether to make the verticals out of 5/4 material, which would be aesthetically more pleasing.

 

[Gregor]

Rather than start a new thread, let me just post a quick question on the mid panel connectors in this one:

When using the mid-panel connectors (either the domino mortise version or the LR32 version) what is the maximum thickness of the board you can get away with?

I havn't played with them that much yet, but:

You should be able to get away with a thicker middle board by adding a shim (1/2 the additional thickness of the middle board) to the reference face for the boaring tool (the face where the tounge goes into the domino mortice) - this would move the location of the holes (where youput the fasterener into the side boards) the needed distance toward the middle board, so that the connector will be long enough even with a thicker middle board than what is in the manual.

 

[mazdaq100]

Sorry to drag up an old thread but am encountering the same problem as the Op. First time using this system and it was going swimmingly until it came to these centre connectors and the 0.5mm flange. I've knocked down the black plastic bit in the shelf to create a recess, as shown in that Instagram video but the flange still won't be drawn into that recess.

Are there any other solutions. Looks pretty rubbish with this 0.5mm gap.

 

[mazdaq100]

One solution is to rout a D8 hole all the way through a piece of scrap, put a centre connector in and tap it with a hammer until the flanges break off. However, this then results in the connector being "loose" in the centre panel. Everything will tighten up once the next shelf and upright are in place.

I can't understand how Peter Halle and the Instagram guy can get a flush fit. As Gregor said below, the flange is naturally wider than the D8 hole in order for it to do its job of holding the centre connector in place. So how is the flange supposed to fit in the recess as the hole isn't wide enough to take the flange too? What am I missing?!