PS 300 instead of a band saw!

[mick71]

Has anyone used the PS 300 jig saw mounted in CMS module for cutting thick stock, say 75-100 mm( 3-4 "). I don't have room for a band saw at the moment and was looking to use this for cutting out legs for chairs etc. Cheers

 

[jmbfestool]

No but I do want to get the CMS module for the Carvex

Any way I cant imagine it being that great with 75-100 thick stock to be honest and band saw would be a far better option really.    Im only thinking of using my Carvex on the CMS module for scribing mainly 25-30mm stock

If you aint got the room you aint got the room and suppose you will have to make do dude.  Just dont do to much curving with it well I think the blade will do some curving for you even when your going straight on 100m stockl lol  [tongue] [poke]

 

[mick71]

I realize i am probably stretching things a little however it will be used for preliminary cutting work prior to routing or sanding.

 

[Mavrik]

I have used my PS 300 mounted upside down ... also because I don't have a bandsaw.
It does work quite well, but there are reservations:
a) It is quite scary having an exposed blade buzzing in front of you
b) The jigsaw obviously goes up and down, so you have to apply strong downwards pressure
c) The laws of physics say that a blade supported on only one end can bend. If you cut really slowly you can avoid blade deflection; but it is difficult.

I think I'm going to buy a small, cheap bandsaw.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I have tried this on thinner wood and not been happy.  Even with a good blade, you will get some deflection, especially on curves - and the deflection always seems to go the "wrong" way.  I wound up leaving a generous amount of extra wood on the piece and wasted a lot of time on the router.  If you try it, I would recommend a slow cut rate and several relief cuts instead of one long cut where the deflection keeps building up.

On the other hand, I'll bet there's someone nearby who would let you use his bandsaw for a couple of hours for a few Fosters or a new blade....

 

[Michael Kellough]

I don't know how you can cut curves in thick stock evenly with a jig saw since the blade isn't square to the base. It kicks forward at the far end even in the "0" orbit setting.

Jig saws are frequently suggested for finishing pocket cuts but if you cut (with the jig saw) up to the mark on one side of the work it overcuts on the opposite.

 

[Nigel]

  I've used it on oak up to 30 mm. With a good blade it's OK but not as good as a band saw. I don't think it would be muck good for thicker stock.

 

[tiralie]

I realize i am probably stretching things a little however it will be used for preliminary cutting work prior to routing or sanding.

If you are going to route and sand anyway I don't see any reason why you can't do it. While it does take more time, it does save you the cost in overhead paying for space to put a bandsaw. Even with a band saw I would clean up my cuts with a router and template for curved work, or if they are straight/angled cuts with a plane.
Kreg used his here freehand arbor using the festool jigsaw to cut some fairly thick boards.
Tim