Question about joining Face Frames to Carcase

[Canon Sue]

Hi Friends,
I have searched for this, but the other threads did not quite answer my question. I am building some cabinets for my shop as a practice for eventually building my kitchen cabinets. I want to join the face frames to the carcase using the Domino.

Aligning the mortises on the bottom rail is no problem as I want the top of the rail aligned with the top of bottom piece of the carcase. I can use the tops of the pieces as a reference.

However, the stiles will overlap the sides of the carcase on both the left and the right. Do I try to use spacers for a reference? Do I just not do this and make one side of the stile flush? If I do this, then it would seem that my face frame would need to be much narrower. Do I just align the bottom and the pocket screw the others?

So, to boil it down, I guess I have two questions. One is how to do what I describe above, and the other is how have you designed your face frames for kitchen cabinets?

-Sue

 

[renthal]

I have a method that works great for me. I make what I call "novel sticks", like story sticks for vertical measurement, but horizontal t layout a built in job. Half lap as many pieces of 3/4x2 inch plywood strips and mark the critical locations, such as center of sink location, dedicated lighting areas, etc. to save trips back into the room all the time.

Now you can build the cabinets on the floor of your shop, and not worry about bad dimensions, the sticks are the length of your finish cabinets. Mark the rail locations, measure and mark the stile sizes. Independently build the face frames, hang them to finish. I don't mind the boxes having a side reveal, you can shim between the boxes to have it all flush.

Hope this helps.

 

[Lou Miller]

Personally, I make my face frames flush. I also don't use anything but glue and clamps either. However, you can do it a lot of different ways and none of them are incorrect. You have to find what works best for you.

The big advantage to using pocket screws is that you don't need clamps. Pretty much every other method does. The downside to pocket screws is they are ugly if they are visible.

Since you have a domino, and you want the FF to overhang the sides, cut mortises in all four corners on the FF and on the carcass. Adding dominos anywhere else is up to you, but shouldn't really be needed unless your carcass pieces are bowed. If your FF and carcass are square, everything will line up perfectly, the domino will assure that. You're going to have to change your fence settings or use spacers to allow for the overhang though. In a situation like yours, I usually just move the fence and try things on some scrap first to confirm that I have moved it the correct amount. Anytime I offset something like this, I make the offsets in metric so that I can take advantage of the scale on the tool. I still use imperial for most other things though.

You're going to still need clamps even with the dominos though.

 

[ccmviking]

I cut dado's in the backs of all the face frames 1/4" thick and 1/4' from the edge.  It's helpful to have a gap between the sides of he cabinets so you can properly get everything aligned (faces in a straight line (think counter top).  I only flush up exposed sides so that it's more furniture looking if they don't want a deco door on the side.  If you want to make a door leave the 1/4" recess on the side and make a full size panel that fit's it.

Chris...

 

[Tim Sproul]

I used biscuits for alignments and haven't done a face frame with the Domino but assume the same principles hold.

In theory, you could use Dominos to get perfect alignment in both the X and Y planes for FF to case attachment.  In reality, it doesn't work so well.  Use Dominos to get only one alignment plane dead on...typically what you describe - get the FF flush with the bottom so that stuff can be slid in/out without catching.  Make the mortises wider than your tenon stock and you'll have to adjust left/right alignment.  Use a minimum number of Dominos as this will make attaching the FF easier.  I've also found chamfering the ends of the Domino tenons is helpful when assembling large things like casework...any slight misalignment doesn't cause a complete stoppage in getting the joint to even start.  You will still need to rely on glue and clamps or pocket hole screws or nails to hold the FF to the case.

 

[Canon Sue]

I appreciate all the responses. This is my first project using the domino and my first cabinet (kitchen style). I have a much better idea what I should do now. I will post a picture of the completed cabinet when I am finished.

Thanks,

-Sue