Question: Accuracy of straight line cuts with Vecturo with the plunge base

[AIPDX]

I have a question to Vecturo Set owners.

Imagine that you need to make a straight line cut along a pencil line, and that it is not practical to use any other tool for that task (e.g., it is close to the wall). It is my understanding that the plunge base enables one to align the line of cut with the target line fairly accurately. If the total length of the cut is greater that the width of the blade, one has to make several cuts along the same straight line to reach the target cut length. Would it be difficult to do it with Vecturo, with adequate accuracy (adequate means no obvious to the eye jagged edges or steps in the line of cut)?

The sub-questions are:

a) How accurately can one align the blade with the pencil cut line prior to cutting?
b) How stable is the whole thing? The plunge base is small, and the tool is tall. Is there a risk of the base moving or sliding at the beginning of a cut or tipping over as you start plunging?
c) is it easy to hold the base with the tool in place? As I said, the base looks small and has no dedicated handles. I am hot even sure how does one grip it.

Thank you!

 

[tjbnwi]

I've done the shift the Vecturo over dance more than once.

It is not difficult. Edges are very good, line is dead straight as long as you're accurate.

I can place it very accurately, clear lines of sight in most cases. Can't speak for other and their accuracy.

Very stable, the rubber base keeps it from wandering.

Why do you want to hold the tool by the base?

Tom

 

[AIPDX]

Thank you, Tom,

It is not that I want to hold the tool by the base... I do not own the tool yet, apologies if my question sounds weird, I have only a general idea of how it works (the idea which I gained from seeing the tool on display at a local dealer). I am not certain as to what is the best way of holding the tool when making cuts with the plunge base. I thought I would have to get a firm grip of the base with one hand (to prevent it from slipping) and use the other hand to plunge the Vecturo itself.

Are you saying that it is sufficient to hold on to the tool only and there is no need to even touch the base? If this is the case, then of course my concern that the base is on the small side no longer applies.

 

[tjbnwi]

I'm left handed so I;

"Pinch" the sides of the base between my right hand thumb and pointing finger, place the base on the line, grasp the body of the Veturo with my left hand and plunge. As you plunge, the rubber on the base grips the work surface.

Make sure you use the plunge blades.

Tom

 

[AIPDX]

THANK YOU!

 

[Nat X]

I've never had any problem keeping the thing straight, but if you're taking out squares, rectangles or other polygons, minimizing overcuts where the lines meet takes a little practice.

 

[semenza]

  It can be done quite well. But I suggest you do some practice cuts to get a good feel for the tool , how you want to hold it , and also get zeroed in on the alignment. To get really nice cut lines you need to be accurate  and consistent in the way you place it and use it. The nice thing about that plunge base is that it makes it truly possible. I have tried with a multimaster (no base), and it is nearly impossible.

Seth

 

[AlexThePalex]

I have not used the vecturo with the plunge base, but I find it very easy to make straight cuts with my multimaster by just using a round blade. Once the blade is in the material it more or less aligns itself. You can also use a thin straight strip as guide.

Anyway, whatever you try to do, practice on scraps first.

 

[Birdhunter]

I use a "fence" parallel to the line I want to cut. I hold the base of the Vecturo against the fence and plunge using the other hand. I find plunging a little, then backing the blade out of the cut, then plunging a little repeatedly reduces over heating the blade.

 

[AIPDX]

I, too, have done cuts with an improvised fence using the Bosch oscillating tool which I've had for years. I would take a piece of scrap wood with one side straight, would align it with the cut line, and would use it as a guide for the blade. It works OK for rough cuts, but it is hard to keep the blade perfectly vertical for each cut. Additionally, one has to watch for the fence sliding away from the cut line. I started looking at Vecturo in search of something more accurate and controllable.

 

[AIPDX]

Reporting back on my experience. Bought a Vecturo Set yesterday. Kind of stupid to buy another oscillating tool for just the privilege of using the plunge base, but it is what it is - you pay for the innovation if you need it. I had a task at hand which I described in my first post, to make a cut along a straight line without taking chances that the blade may wonder to the side or raking the risk of making a rough cut. I bought the tool specifically for that task. Or used the task as an excuse to buy a new toy, whichever applies.

The result was very good. It took almost no time to get used to the plunge base. The quality of cut was good, I made one practice cut and then went straight to the main task. Very easy to use, stable, convenient. I could not see the line of cut very well in the position in which I was cutting, but I was able to get very close to the line every time.

I did not have much time to "play" with Vecturo or carefully compare it side by side with my older Bosch. So far, I only have several first observations which I'd like to share:

1. Speed of cuts through maple was faster than I expected. This probably can be attributed to a larger angle of oscillations.
2. Plunge base is a great accessory. However, just as much as this base is ingenious, the fact that they did not add a depth gauge to it is... kind of stupid. So you buy a $600 tool and the first thing you do is go to Youtube to learn how to build a missing component from Christmas light hooks?
3. The systainer would not latch to the top of my Midi. It looks like the position of connectors is misaligned with latches on the MIDI by 1-2 mm. Is it "Goodbye to system integrity" and welcome to "Made in China" level of quality? I did not have had an opportunity to test if it latches with other systainers yet. I wonder if anyone has seen the same problem. I think I will send an e-mail to Festool to check if this is a known issue.
4. From the user perspective, the Starlock system on the Bosch feels far superior to Fein's locking mechanism. Maybe the Fein's mechanism has other benefits in terms of tightness or accuracy, but the number of operations required to remove or swap the blade as well as the risk of dropping or losing the connector is annoying on Vecturo. I am not surprised that Fein, as it was recently reported, plans to move to its own version of Star-lock.
5. Design of the Systainer, with a separate compartment for blades on the top, is nice.
6. Two people are needed to use Vecturo in a "Festool style". One runs the tool, the second one holds the vacuum hose next to the blade. My son was helping me this time.

 

[weekendwarrior]

The lack of a depth gauge and lack of dust collection, which you mentioned, are why I think the Vecturo is a waste of money.  Plunge accessory is nice, but not well thought out- I completely expect more from Festool and the price this tool commands.  Fein models come in a systainer so they fit the system just fine.

 

[AIPDX]

Oh well..  In the set configuration, it is still one of the best, if not the best, tool of this kind available on the market. However, we expect a high degree of perfection for this price, and we have very high expectations for Festool products. Considering that Fein Supercut in a systainer set with 8 blades and sanding pads sells at a street price of $419, Festool Vecturo is a poor deal, unless one needs the plunge attachment and depth limiters for freehand cutting and is ready to pay extra for them.

I see totally no reason for anyone to buy a Vecturo in a non-set version as long as a totally comparable in all respects Supercut sells significantly cheaper.

 

[rst]

Just for reference sake...the Festool plunge attachment fits the Supercut perfectly.  I had the corded model (in systainer from Toolnut $419.00) and now have the cordless also.  While it would be nice to have a stop, I just use a sharpie to mark the blade as a stop point.  Another note...the dust collector that Fein - Beaver Tools - 92602075018 DUST EXTRACTOR - SUPER CUT (makes works fabulously when using it to cut drywall, I replaced the rear wall in my finished oak kitchen and had almost no dust especially the fine, its "every where" dust.

 

[mike_aa]

Just for reference sake...the Festool plunge attachment fits the Supercut perfectly.  I had the corded model (in systainer from Toolnut $419.00) and now have the cordless also.  While it would be nice to have a stop, I just use a sharpie to mark the blade as a stop point.  Another note...the dust collector that Fein - Beaver Tools - 92602075018 DUST EXTRACTOR - SUPER CUT (makes works fabulously when using it to cut drywall, I replaced the rear wall in my finished oak kitchen and had almost no dust especially the fine, its "every where" dust.

[member=25351]rst[/member] How does that attachment work?  I looked it up and see the picture, but no other info.  Does it just clip on the front?

Thanks, Mike A.

 

[DB10]

Does the Vecturo have a soft start,  similar to the Carvex?

 

[Birdhunter]

My Vecturo has a soft start.

 

[rst]

The Supercut dust extractor has a clip that catches onto the ventilating grooves just in front of the switch.

 

[DB10]

My Vecturo has a soft start.

Thanks Birdhunter, that's good to know.

 

[mike_aa]

The Supercut dust extractor has a clip that catches onto the ventilating grooves just in front of the switch.

Thanks rst,
That makes sense now.