question on build material for you pros :0

#Tee

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Hi all, im trying to make some doors like this. i was thinking of using acrylic for the panel and sanding them for the frosted look. as for the rail and stiles what material should i use? and how thick should it be for a sturdy construction? it will be painted matte white. if mdf how thick?

 
I would use 1 1/2 material - could be two 3/4 pieces of poplar or MDF for the doors.  I don't think you will get the stability you want with only 3/4 size.  Plus they are doors so I think you want a little more 'heft.

If you do two pieces of 3/4 material laminated together, you cut cut a rabbet on the inside faces to 1/8" and give you 1/4" inset for the plexiglas or frosted glass.

Not clear how the top rollers attach, but you might need to inset solid wood between two smaller pieces of MDF to give you enough screw holding strength given the weight.

Not sure you will be pleased with sanding the plexiglas to give you a frosted look.  I have tried sanding aluminum to give a brushed look and was never happy with the look, and I think the same could be true with the plexiglas.  Might want to try on a scrap from the Hardware store first.

Reeded glass would look great in those doors!  So many cool patterns you can custom order in glass that you might want to consider to really make a 'statement' with the doors.

Great project - please share photos as you progress with them.

neil
 
You can buy frosted acrylic. Home Depot, internet suppliers ,etc.

Seth
 
neil thanks for your input! my plan was to sand 1/8in arylic on one side and sandwich 2 of them together to have a frosted look on the inside while a nice clean glass texture on the outside. ill look into the frosted glass option from homedepot as well Seth.

another question whats the best way to paint without overspraying into the glass after the door is assembled? basically like a car and mask up the glass carefully and peal off?
 
The acrylic should come with a barrier film, don't remove until after painting.

6/4 maple planed to 1-3/8.

Tom
 

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neilc said:
Not sure you will be pleased with sanding the plexiglas to give you a frosted look.  I have tried sanding aluminum to give a brushed look and was never happy with the look, and I think the same could be true with the plexiglas.  Might want to try on a scrap from the Hardware store first.

Reeded glass would look great in those doors!  So many cool patterns you can custom order in glass that you might want to consider to really make a 'statement' with the doors.

Great project - please share photos as you progress with them.

neil
[/quote

I concurr. Reeded glass looks great as would etched glass or sandblasted/beadblasted glass. These doors will need to be washed from time to time and plexi or acrylic is prone to scratching. Real glass isn't that much more expensive than plastic.
 
Quote from: neilc
Not sure you will be pleased with sanding the plexiglas to give you a frosted look.  I have tried sanding aluminum to give a brushed look and was never happy with the look, and I think the same could be true with the plexiglas.  Might want to try on a scrap from the Hardware store first.

Reeded glass would look great in those doors!  So many cool patterns you can custom order in glass that you might want to consider to really make a 'statement' with the doors.

I concurr. Reeded glass looks great as would etched glass or sandblasted/beadblasted glass. Remember these doors will need to be washed from time to time and plexi or acrylic is very prone to scratching so paper towels are a no-no. Real glass isn't that much more expensive than plastic.
 
thanks everyone1, ya i just ask and shes not digging the reeded glass look. i would love to use maple but its rather expensive and it will be painted anyways? i figured it wont be used much as it will be dividing a living and family room so itll be open most of its life time. its mainly just looks for her.
 
If you make the doors out of MDF they will be very heavy. I think you'll also run into problems with the hardware on the top over time, the MDF will wear where they are connected. I have only seen these doors out of solid wood.

I concur with the choice for frosted acrylic, reeded glas will still have a see through effect, not what you want in all places of the house. Forget sanding, buy it frosted as Seth suggested.

As for spray painting, I would do all the painting before assembly. The problem with masking glass is that even though you mask it, paint can still creep under it leaving small but ugly streaks. Those are easily removed later with normal glass, but not with acrylic.
 
I would not build any doors and or much of anything out of mdf.  I use it as a filler panels in side cabinet doors and thats it.  Doors get beat up pretty bad over there life and mdf will not hold up to the abuse.  I would build the doors 1 3/8 out of vertical grain fur as my first choice, maple would be my second.  Poplar isnt stable enough to use on a door.
 
tjbnwi said:
The acrylic should come with a barrier film, don't remove until after painting.

6/4 maple planed to 1-3/8.

Tom

Thats not much meat to make sure you can have a flat board.  I start with 8/4 for doors.
 
Just a note, by code you must not put regular, patterned or otherwise breakable glass in doors, transums or side lites within 15" of a door, also any glass within 18" of the floor.  You must use safety glazing: tempered or laminated.  Acrylics are allowed as they break differently than glass.  There are for practical purposes no sharper edges than broken glass.  Even tempered glass can cut but the pieces are small enough too not be considered life threatening.  The biggest problem with acrylics and more so with polycarbonates is they scratch so easily, even with routine cleaning.  You really should price tempered obscure as there are many wonderful patterns available.
 
I made these from 5/4 hard maple.

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thanks for all the suggestion guys! another question guys?? with all these barn door applications...i get the top slides but the bottom just flops around? how do you keep that from scraping the baseboards? [embarassed]
 
#Tee said:
thanks for all the suggestion guys! another question guys?? with all these barn door applications...i get the top slides but the bottom just flops around? how do you keep that from scraping the baseboards? [embarassed]

There's usually a bottom guide of some sort. IF you buy a hardware kit it is usually included. Here are some examples:

http://www.realslidinghardware.com/bottom-guides/
 
A production outfit would make them from a lumber stave core with a veneer for paintability.  If you want the obscure look, use laminated glass.  It very well could be a "fun" project to undertake, but consider that shops who build these are specialized and generally more cost-effective than DIY.

Regarding the hardware - I use Crown Industrial out of SF, though there are a number of companies who sell similar-looking hardware for less money and less quality.  Beware of any hardware that includes "mushroomed" standoffs to sit directly on the drywall, you will want direct contact with the studs behind.  You can usually fit a size down of washer (eg 3/8" washer on 1/2" lag bolt) between standoffs and studs to shim a straight line for the track.  Use a good plumb bob to locate the hidden floor guide. 
Lastly, allow for at least 1 full inch of overlay past opening when sizing the doors.
 
What Joe C said about overlap is correct, add 1" more than half the opening dimension to each door leaf.
 
thanks for everyones help! i finished this project about 3 weeks ago. i ended going with 5/4 poplar, acrylic with frosted film to cut cost down, 2 barndoor kit from amazon. everything came out to 630 in materials. the owner was extremely happy :) now i can cross this out of my things to make before i die [scared]






 
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