Rail and Stile - Rabbets & Dados

[shaun.mcc]

What's Up FOG's (in Bugs Bunny Voice)?

While we are talking rabbets vs. rabbits...I have some questions.

I'm about to embark on making cabinets with the Festool system. MrBigerock's (Eric) video have been really motivating. I have some relatively simple open wardrobe cabinets (large walk in closet room ~14'x14'), kitchen island build, built-in study desk/shelves, built-in storage cabinet console below 4k tv, etc. All this as I move into furniture making for a hobby.

So...a Festool Router Table is on my list...but I have to spread out the $$$$ for a while.

My Question:
• How are you guys making the dado to receive a inset panel (think shaker doors), handheld router (doable?) vs. router table? I planned on using a 1/4 slot cutting bit with bearing if going handheld, and using space balls to support the undersized panel.
• How are you guys making your door frames (again, think shaker doors)? Routing a stile and rail profile and gluing up?, if so, is this a handheld job or is a router table required (my routing thus far is usually limited to handheld vs. table)?  Or are you using Dominos (I have a 700, waiting on my Seneca adapter/plates)? Or are you using pocket screws?

Thanks for the insights.
Shaun

 

[mouppe]

I prefer to use a straight bit in a router table and lower the stiles onto it- then run the groove. Using stops clamped to the fence will define the ends of your grooves. You don't want to run the groove the whole way on your stiles as it will be visible on the assembled door. Rails are fine- run them straight through all the way.

The advantage of this method is that the groove will be an even distance from the reference face which goes against the table fence on all four pieces so the groove should line up nicely.

I am a little fearful of slot cutters and prefer not to use them if I can. They really should only ever be used in a router table though.

Note: A rabbet (rebate in the UK) is a groove on the edge of a piece of wood, such as you would find on the rear of a cabinet where the back is recessed.

For the joinery, I have a rail and stile set, but I have also used dominos in the past many times. Depends on the application.

 

[shaun.mcc]

Thanks RL. Yes, I should say Rabbet and Dado...assuming I needed to rabbet a raised panel to fit the Dad

 

[stillwaterBR]

Router table and shaker profile rail and stile bit set. Take the time to fine tune the bits and make a couple of setup blocks from scrap. . Highly recommend running your stock through a thickness planer first to ensure your joinery lines up. Otherwise you'll be sanding for days.

 

[Billedis]

Sommerfeld has a matched height shaker bit set.  I have used it and it is great.  I have his table as well, purchased prior to learning about festool, and really like it.  The videos I have seen of the festool router table it seems a bit cumbersome IMHO.  With Sommerfeld you set the cope bit, and the others follow suit if you use the rubber grommet in the router.  Check his youtube vids out. 

Looking forward to your share once you get started.  Bill

 

[shaun.mcc]

Thanks Bill and Stillwater. I will look at those. I was looking at the whiteside shaker router bit kit.

 

[Sparktrician]

Once I get the bits set perfectly, I make setup blocks from UHMW plastic since it doesn't shrink or expand the way wood will.  I concur with RL on the setup of the router table. 

 

[JCLP]

Hi Shaun,
For my shaker style doors I use Freud adjustable tongue and groove set, model # 99-036. Works great. If you want to put a profile on the inside of the panel you can use Lee Valley Shaker bit, product number 16J66.51.
Cheers,
JC

 

[Birdhunter]

Good answers. I'm not a professional, but have built several cabinets.

I'd not want to tackle any of these cuts handheld. I'd only do them on a router table. I have a foot operated off/on switch for my table mounted router in addition to the router table's mounted switch. If something goes wrong, all I have to do is jump back. My foot comes off the switch and power to the router is cut. I don't have this safety factor handheld.

I use Dominos often in building cabinets and bookcases. Mid panel Dominos are very easy to do and a lot less fussy than getting dados cut. Your 700 would be perfect.

I occasionally use pocket screws for cabinets if I can't find another way to do the job. I don't like the way they pull the pieces out of alignment unless clamped with super human strength.

 

[flair woodworks]

My preference is to first assemble the door frames with Dominos (dry fit only!), then run the grooves for the raised panel on the router table with a fat slot-cutting bit.  For this operation, I use lightweight bar clamps to hold the frame together and provide safe handholds.

 

[fshanno]

My preference is to first assemble the door frames with Dominos (dry fit only!), then run the grooves for the raised panel on the router table with a fat slot-cutting bit.  For this operation, I use lightweight bar clamps to hold the frame together and provide safe handholds.

With no cope and a somewhat narrow tenon there is the possibility that the slot might not be perfectly aligned.  Not an issue with this method.  I did it on one project.  It's slow but fun to do.  I like it.

 

[sancho57]

The 2200 is your friend

 

[JimD]

Depends on what you want.  I usually make flat panel doors using a cope and stick bit on my router table.  I have several profiles.  It gives you a molded edge around the flat panel.  The little tenons have always held fine for me, including on raised panel doors.

If you want no profile around the panel, I would cut the dado on the table saw.  Probably use the radial arm saw to do the tenons (trim with shoulder plane).