Rail square/fence for sheet stock

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May 27, 2009
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I would think that this type of thing is so simple and useful that it has probably been beaten to death already.  But I have been unable to find much else like this posted (I'm sure that says more about my navigation and search skills than anything else).

The first photo shows the rail hanging on the wall. The entire assembly is a 55" rail, one rail connector with 2 of the small set screws replaced by 1" long metric screws, a piece of cdx plywood, 3/4" x 8" x 16" (about), and a gecko clamp.  The fence is attached with the rail connector.  I removed 2 set screws, placed the connector in the bottom of the rail, placed the 2 long screws though the plywood, and into the rail connector.  Square the whole thing up and tighten it down.  Very simple, fast and cheap

Second picture, if you can make anything out is the jig sitting on a sacrificial table top (scrap mcp) like I was ready to cut.  That 16" of fence really allows you to get a square cut if you are careful.  Notice the gecko clamp.  Most of the material I work with  is mcp, prefinished, or corian, but with the square I don't need to lock it down.  I just use it as a handle and a little extra contact area with the item being cut.

Third picture shows how the cross fence extends past the blade.  The scrap plywood fence has been cut into, but not cut off.  This gives me an idea of the Kerf width and allows me to lay my line on the scrap side of the blade if I like.  Every time I start a cut, I place my ts 75 on the rail with the back edge of the sole of the saw resting on the back edge of the rail.  That gives me about 42" of cut before I'm in danger of extending past the rail at the end of cut. 

The last two pictures just show the cutting grid I usually use.  Either from my trailer on site, or in a permanent shop, I usually use the same type of work bench.  It consists of 2 folding sawhorses (I did use shop made sawhorses for many years, but they take up more space), 8' plywood rails made of 3 layers of 18mm ply, stapled and glued.  Notice the center rail is shifted so each end creates the male or female end of a bridal joint.  This allows creating a 16' setup with 4 rails and 3 sawhorses.  I do commercial millwork installation so sometimes I need that type of length.  I see some people going to extremes with their cutting setups, but when you do high end, high speed commercial production you rarely have time for that type of thing an still remain profitable.
 
And it stays square through many uses?  It doesn't budge at all? 

Have you tried it much on rougher surfaces like sanded ply where the guide grips and fights you when you're trying to get it set?
 
nope, so far as solid as a rock.  I do check it every now and then with a 24" starrett square just to make sure.  I really cranked down the bolts that lock the plywood to the rail.  I guess if you really wanted to make sure you could stick 100 grit psa sandpaper to the bottom of the rail so the plywood could not slide.  I do that with lots of jigs.
 
monkeyswithhammers said:
nope, so far as solid as a rock.  I do check it every now and then with a 24" starrett square just to make sure.  I really cranked down the bolts that lock the plywood to the rail.  I guess if you really wanted to make sure you could stick 100 grit psa sandpaper to the bottom of the rail so the plywood could not slide.  I do that with lots of jigs.

Well what am I waiting for?  Got connectors I never use, got a 55 I rarely use that I could dedicate.  I've even got the metric bolts.

I've tried everything else for t-square cutting.  I've got the Festool angle guide thing with a hole for a bolt to lock it at 90.  But actually I like to use it for what it's intended, semi-accurate angle cuts.  I've got the little DeWalt Tee and it's handy but it's not that great at overcoming guide grip on wide crosscuts.  I've got a set of FS-PA parallel guides and one arm works great for crosscutting but I'd rather leave them both on a longer guide for ripping.  So this could be the answer.  I can make it as long as I like and the kerf idea looks very good.  Always looking for new ideas.  Thanks!
 
Great idea! I have been thinking of the same idea to get square cuts. I have the connectors and the metric screws as well.
Fshanno: Did you have an opportunity to use this method? If so, how did it go?

Monkeyswithhammers: Would you send a picture of the underside of the jig? Thank you in advance for your help!
 
Tom K said:
Great idea! I have been thinking of the same idea to get square cuts. I have the connectors and the metric screws as well.
Fshanno: Did you have an opportunity to use this method? If so, how did it go?

Monkeyswithhammers: Would you send a picture of the underside of the jig? Thank you in advance for your help!

Not yet but I still plan on it.  Using the actual kerf to match up with the mark is brilliant.
 
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