Ras 115 and plug-it pig tail

[Chris Hughes]

Has anybody used a plug-it pig tail with the ras?  I would prefer to stow the unit without a cord and I just happened upon a pig tail this week thanks to a friend.  Is it difficult to modify?

 

[AlexThePalex]

I have the DX93 which has the same body as the RAS, and I repair and maintain tools on a regular base so I'm quite familiar with opening them. And it all comes down to having 1 or 2 screw drivers, nothing more. It is very easy.

The image below is from the festool eKat site.

[attachimg=1]

All you have to do is remove part 8, which is the back side of the sander, by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back. Slide it along the cord away from the main body. Then you'll see 4 screws, 2 screws (9) holding the cable clamp (10), and 2 connecting the 2 electric wires to the switch/electronics module (7). Remove the 4 srews, replace the cable for the pigtail and tighten all the screws again.

I quickly opened up my DX93 so you can see it. The 4 screws you have to remove are circled in red. Sorry for the over exposure of the flash but this is all I could do so quickly because my camera's batteries were dead.

[attachthumb=2]

 

[Chris Hughes]

That's too easy.  I think I will put my pig tail on my ras.  Thanks Alex.

 

[AlexThePalex]

You're welcome Chris. Just make sure you tighten the screws on the cable clamp very good when reassembling so the cable can't come loose. That is very important for electrical safety.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Excellent description and pictures, Alex.  I managed to get some, too, so off to do a lil wiring  [cool]

 

[neeleman]

Here is my DX93 with Plug-it pig tail.
Because I use all my Festools with the integrated Plug-it suction hose I replaced the power cord with a pig tail.

 

[plaidma1]

Thanks for the info...

Does this modification void the warranty?

Where can I get PIPTs?  (plug-it pig-tails)

 

[neeleman]

I believe they are Not Available In North America (NIANA).
Unfortunately for you and many others.

You should let some pieces (10-20) send in from somebody in Europe.
I believe there are a lot of candidates over there.
But that will come at a considarable cost.
In Europe the PIPT only cost USD 26.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Does this modification void the warranty?

If it's not done by a Festool mechanic then you betcha ...... in the other case, I'm not sure. But for America, you can be sure that your warranty is void because Festool USA won't sell you any pigtails or install them. So your only option is to do this yourself.

Of course, if it's time to claim warranty you can always replace the pigtail with the original cord again. It leaves no physical traces so no one will ever know.

In Europe the PIPT only cost USD 26.

Only? Hm......  [unsure]

 

[Sean7a]

Very cool guys.  Actually was not aware of a plug it pig tail.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Very cool guys.  Actually was not aware of a plug it pig tail.

Get out from under that rock man. Believe it or not there is a big world out here. [tongue]

I believe they are Not Available In North America (NIANA).
Unfortunately for you and many others.

You should let some pieces (10-20) send in from somebody in Europe.
I believe there are a lot of candidates over there.
But that will come at a considarable cost.
In Europe the PIPT only cost USD 26.

As most of the members here know the PIPT is NIANA. European dealers can't ship these to us here in the States.  And dealers don't stock many of these so getting a overseas member to ship you some isn't going to yield more than one or two at a time.  Seems dealers question larger orders of PIPTs and that usually stops you from getting them in any numbers. 

 

[Sean7a]

Woof, come on Brice.  I have like 3 other forums I need to keep up on (for "work") not to mention forums I read for pleasure.  So hard on me sometimes.

 

[Chris Hughes]

Mission Accomplished!!!  Again, that was too easy.  I love those German tool designer types.  Here is the after picture.  One thing that messed me up a little was that the wires on the pig tail were blue and brown not black and white.  I was not sure which wire went where so I called Festool and asked.  As it turns out apparently, it does not matter.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Ah, I traced mine.  Neutral on the RAS naturally was white on the inside; it matched blue on the pigtail so I maintained that.  If it doesn't matter, then they must have a double-throw power switch.  Naturally when 'on' it doesn't matter, but if it's just a single-throw switch, it will be on the hot.  If you flipped that and the switch was on the neutral, the tool would sit at 110V and be a shock hazard.

 

[Jeff Hein]

Definitely a nice mod. I would love to get my hands on a few of those pigtails...

 

[Chris Hughes]

I called Lester and told him I was replacing my cord and I needed to know which way to connect the wires.  He told me it did not matter, so I asked one more time to be a little more clear, "So, would it matter which eve if the wires were brown and blue?"  he said, "No." 

Just to be even more sure, I looked at the photo Alex posted and matched my colors to his.

But Paul, if you say it matters then I believe you and it is a small matter to change it.  If you have time and a camera, please get a photo of the wires connected and I will make them the same.  "better safe than sorry." Momma always said.

 

[AlexThePalex]

If it doesn't matter, then they must have a double-throw power switch.  Naturally when 'on' it doesn't matter, but if it's just a single-throw switch, it will be on the hot.  If you flipped that and the switch was on the neutral, the tool would sit at 110V and be a shock hazard.

O, I thought I knew something about electricity but this didn't make any sense to me. Now I'm not going to pretend to be familiar with the American power grid but I thought you guys at least had alternating current (AC). When you have alternating current it doesn't matter which way the wires are connected because the current constantly changes polarity anyway.

And as far as I know, most switches on power tools are single throw.

Chris, nice to see it worked.

 

[Chris Hughes]

For a second and then I went to ground.  After a fire extinguisher and some CPR I was good to go.

Seriously thanks Alex, it's people like you that make the FOG a valuable resource.  You too Paul, I still want to see the phots if you can get them, please.

 

[USPcompact]

I just put a PlugIt (thanks Seth!) on an RS2 and just matched the wires to how it was already configured - brown (hot in the UK/Europe/Oz) went where the previous black connected, blue (neutral in the UK/Europe/Oz) went where the previous white connected.  

[smile]

 

[ccarrolladams]

If it doesn't matter, then they must have a double-throw power switch.  Naturally when 'on' it doesn't matter, but if it's just a single-throw switch, it will be on the hot.  If you flipped that and the switch was on the neutral, the tool would sit at 110V and be a shock hazard.

O, I thought I knew something about electricity but this didn't make any sense to me. Now I'm not going to pretend to be familiar with the American power grid but I thought you guys at least had alternating current (AC). When you have alternating current it doesn't matter which way the wires are connected because the current constantly changes polarity anyway.

And as far as I know, most switches on power tools are single throw.

Chris, nice to see it worked.

Paul, most of us call them "double pole" switches, which disconnect both lines at the same time. Festools which do not have a ground wire are double insulated. An important part of that design is the use of double pole switches.

Alex, yes virtually commercially supplied electricity to homes and businesses in the USA is 60hz alternating current (AC). Single phase is the norm for residences, although in some communities 3 phase is an option for homes. In most places here businesses using more than a moderate amount of electricity use 3 phase service.

Now about the color of the wires under the USA National Electrical Code, which is used in most communities. In a single phase circuit, one wire is "hot" and the other is "designated neutral" The hot wire has potential relative to ground, either 120v or 220v normally. The hot lead my never be white or green. Green may only be used for an actual ground lead. White my only be used for a designated neutral lead, but any other color besides black may be used for the designated neutral lead.

In a 220v circuit, both of the leads are hot and may not be white or green. In a 220v circuit the ground must be green. In a 220v/120v circuit, besides the two hot leads, there is a designated neutral. The voltage between the two hot leads is 220v and between either and neutral 120v. The designated neutral must be white.

There are two common 3 phase systems. In the older system, the three hot leads are 240v between any two. None of those leady may be white or green. The ground lead is green.

In the newer 3 phase system, besides the 3 hot leads there is a designated neutral as well as a ground. Between any 2 of the hot leads the potential is 208v and single phase. Between any hot lead and neutral the potential is 120v and single phase. As always, hot leads may never be white. The designated neutral must be white and the ground must be green.