RAS 115 for paint removal/prep

[rblaustein]

I have a lot of exterior trim work that needs repainting and I am considering the RAS 115 for help with removal of old paint and prepwork. From reading posts here, the consensus seems to be that Saphir 24 would be the paper of choice for the initial removal phase. But I was wondering what would work best for the next step. Would the RAS with Rubin in 60 or 80 work? I have a 150/3 ROS and an old PC quarter-sheet palm sander but was wondering if I could get away with just using the RAS. I love the 150/3 but was thinking it might be a bit unwieldy for this type of trim work though I guess I could give it a try. In general, what grit do people generally sand to in preparation for painting with an alkyd primer followed by a few coats of a good exterior Latex?
--Rob

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

At least 100, sanded my house to 120.

RAS, rotex and deltex are thr go to crew for exterior work for me.

 

[rblaustein]

At least 100, sanded my house to 120.

RAS, rotex and deltex are thr go to crew for exterior work for me.

Thanks. What grit (and sander) do you use in between the aggressive grit with the RAS and the 100 or 120 grit with the Rotex? Can you go right to the Rotex at 100 or 120?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I went 36, 60, 80, and two quick passes with 100 and 120.

Once you get the old finish off with the RAS it goes fairly quickly with the Rotex.

 

[BMH]

Just finished taking off 8 coats of latex with the RAS 115 using Saphir24-50 then Rubin 80-120 with the 150/5. Did use the DTS 400 EQ for some of the edges. If you are careful with the RAS 115 you should only need a quick pass with the Rubin 80-120. I was able to clear 25-30 square feet an hour with the RAS 115.

Bruce

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

DX93 is what I used for the hard to reach spots.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I have a lot of exterior trim work that needs repainting and I am considering the RAS 115 for help with removal of old paint and prepwork. From reading posts here, the consensus seems to be that Saphir 24 would be the paper of choice for the initial removal phase.

I used Saphir 50 this week to strip very hard (I think oil-based) paint from a house with my Rotex. The paper cut through the paint like it was butter. I was appalled though by the damage done to the wood beneath the paint leaving hideous scratch marks. I'm going to get me some 80 grit Saphir for the rest and see how that works, I think it will do very nicely too and perhaps leave a better wood surface.

Considering what 50 grit already does, I know I myself am NOT EVER going to use any of the coarser grits like 36 and 24. And I would advise anybody against it unless your work surface is absolute horror. Also, the Rotex was so aggressive with the Saphir 50 that I would not need a RAS at all. I originally anticipated this job to be though so I even had my 10.000 rpm Elu angle grinder fitted with sanding paper, but I didn't need it at all.   

But I was wondering what would work best for the next step. Would the RAS with Rubin in 60 or 80 work?

I wouldn't advise Rubin as it is for bare wood but stick with the specialised paint papers like Cristal and Brilliant. Cristal 40 and 60 are great for leveling rough paint and to leave a nice preparation for the primer I smooth it out with 80 grit Brilliant on the Rotex and the Deltex.

In general, what grit do people generally sand to in preparation for painting with an alkyd primer followed by a few coats of a good exterior Latex?

I generally prepare the surface with 40 or 60 grit Cristal or Brilliant 2. If I got Cristal I prefer that since it is tougher and more aggressive. If I'm out of Cristal, Brilliant 2 will also work, it just take a tad longer. Then I finish it off with 80 grit Brilliant to leave a smooth surface for the primer. On wood outside it's really not necessary to go to higher grits. The wood is rougher and the primer (I prefer a high solid primer, always) will fill out a lot of uneven spots and scratches. 

Between the primer and the finish paint I only do a quick hand sanding with a 120 grit sanding foam pad.     

About Latex ....... I don't know about what climate you live in exactly, but where I live, here in The Netherlands, I would NEVER use latex on wood. Always alkyd paint. I leave the latex for stony surfaces only.

Oh yeah, when working on doors inside I go up to grit 220 or 240 to get a really smooth result. It's more important there.

 

[rblaustein]

Thanks for the replies.

Alex--my idea of using Saphir 24 comes from reading posts of those who have used the RAS 115 for paint removal (I think Justin has posted about this a few times, as have others) and that seems to work best for them. Thanks for the tip about Rubin on bare wood only--I was aware of that. My comment about using Rubin after the RAS with 24 grit assumed I'd removed the paint.

What I'm curious about is if I can miminize grit changes and sander changes since much of this work will be on a ladder. So that's why I was wondering if the RAS could do it all and if I could jump right to 80 or so after the initial aggressive removal with 24 or 36 for exterior trim.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I will second that the RAS doesn't leave the kind of scratch marks behind that the rotex does.

 

[stairman]

one of the few tools I have held onto  -following my FULL FESTOOL switch-over about 6months ago...    is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7403-Abrasive-Paint-Remover/dp/B0000222YQ

obviously, you need quite an arsenal of Festools to wrap up and finish such a tedious job,  but if you want to get the bulk of the old scaly paint off your house in a big hurry,  and leave consistent results underneath,   this is a really good tool for the job.

check it out and watch it in action on youtube.  I think you'll be pleasantly impressed with how it performs.  just be well armed and well supplied with Festool sanders and abrasives to finish up after this animal de-paints all the siding,  as there will still be PLENTY of prep work left

 

[oldie]

Hi Stairman - just read some of the reviews on Amazon. Interesting; but reckon first a trip to gym - to get some muscles sorted.  [unsure]  [big grin]

rblau was wanting to prep trim.

Given that the RO90, and, Granat now available; what would people now suggest in the circumstances??
(Appreciate don't know how bad surfaces were to start with.)

Liked video by Brice Burrell; where he sands down a window frame with the RO90 + 40 grit Granat.  Looks good.
http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage103.html

If you're still around rblau; how did it go?

Thanks.

 

[BMH]

I would start with with the RAS115 and the highest of the Saphir grit that would get the job done in one pass. I rarely use the Saphir 24 grit anymore as it is as overkill for most jobs. Then I jump to Rubin 80 then 120 using the 150/5. The DTS 400 is my favorite sander for hard to get places and now the Rotex 90 has been added to that list.

I still use a respirator when removing old paint with the RAS 115. When using the RAS 115 it is important to let the machine do the work and not overheat the pad or paint as it will gum up the paper. Basically light pressure and keep it moving. Every so often you will have to let the pad cool down if it overheats.

Bruce

 

[worldburger]

I would start with with the RAS115 and the highest of the Saphir grit that would get the job done in one pass. I rarely use the Saphir 24 grit anymore as it is as overkill for most jobs. Then I jump to Rubin 80 then 120 using the 150/5. The DTS 400 is my favorite sander for hard to get places and now the Rotex 90 has been added to that list.

Bruce, can you share a little more about your experience sanding old paint with the Rotex 90. Grits, types, techniques. Anything really.

I got the RO 90 for doing overhead sanding old, old paint on rafter tails and eaves (100+yr old house). I've only played with it, but so far I don't think I've figured out the most efficient way to use this one.

The RAS 115 is amazing.

 

[Scott B.]

The LS130 scraper attachment is aggressive. I wouldn't use it anywhere that I didn't plan to do a healthy sand afterwords. It is definitely more productive than hand scraping on rough removal, but does require a certain finesse in technique. It is well suited for rough tasks like peeling up linoleum floor remnants as well.

For rough removal by sander, I use the RAS on horizontals, like decks. And I use the RO90 quite a bit on vertical removal (old exterior trim paint, etc). At 60-80g with Granat you can do alot, and it is easy to handle.

 

[BMH]

Te RO 90 has a learning curve. The way you hold it makes a lot of difference in how it sands. I usually have my right hand supporting under the hose/plug end and my left hand cupping the front/top of the head of the sander with minimal downward pressure. If you have the pad perfectly flat it sands smoothly.  If you are off you will get a chattering sensation and you will feel like you are not controlling it.

For heavy paint removal I use the Rotex mode with 40 grit for hardwood or 60/80 grit for softer wood. Then I switch to random orbital at the next higher grit level and continue to my final grit goal.

If you are going to work over head make sure that you are not supporting the whole weight of the electric cord and vacuum on your arms. Clamp the hose  to a rafter or to your waist to take the weight off.

Hope this helps, good luck on the project

Bruce

 

[Welshdog]

I would start with with the RAS115 and the highest of the Saphir grit that would get the job done in one pass. I rarely use the Saphir 24 grit anymore as it is as overkill for most jobs.

Bruce

I just today found a use for P24 and my RO125.  Years ago I painted my bathroom with enamel latex.  This enamel was on top of the cruddy builders flat paint, which was over knockdown texture.  Now 19 years later we want to redo the room.  I have gradually been changing all the knockdown in the house to smooth skim coat as we repaint etc., and we want the same look in the bathroom.  Of course this enamel does not provide a good surface for adhering the skim coat so I have been looking for a reasonable way to get the texture and the paint off the drywall.

P24 Saphir and RO125 to the rescue.  I bought the box of p24 Saphir for some unknown reason a year ago and just today thought I would try it on a wall section that I had been using for experiments at removing the texture.  I.E. the wall is already kind of gouged up from my testing.  Well the P24 worked like a charm with the RO125 on random and at top speed.  I don't want to remove all the paint and texture because that would mean I was sanding down to the drywall paper - which I assume would be a bad thing.  The Saphir takes off almost all the enamel and texture leaving a nice roughed up surface that I can prime and then skim with drywall mud.  After the 24 pass, I "finished" it with a pass of 60 Cristal which took off the "hanging chads" that remained.  I have to say that the P24 is going to make this easier than I had imagined.  I had not really considered the P24 for this use as I figured it would totally destroy the drywall.  Live and learn.

 

[slopjock78]

So i have a similar problem.  I have a friend that tried to do his own taping/mudding.  He must have found a blowout sale on drywall mud, cause he used A LOT!!  Then 3 coats of latex paint.

now, 10 years later, he is wanting to make it look better.  In come me.  I tried my RO125 with Rubin 80 (all i had) and the pads only lasted for about 12" and it was all gummed up.  and the process was pretty slow.

I have a paint shop across the street from where I work, and they carry a limited festool lineup.  Just sanders and DE.  i called over and they have Granat 60 and 80 in stock.

Are either of these a good choice for removing 3 coats of latex and sanding down the drywall?  If there is a better option, I am more then willing to order online as well.

edited to add that I also have an ETS125 if that is a better fit in this application with the proper paper as apposed to the RO125

 

[tbellemare]

I've used P60 Granat on years of latex paint build up and it went right through it, the texture, and glue that was on top of all of it. It also lasted until the backing gave out, which was a really long stretch.

Tom

 

[slopjock78]

Thanks for the quick response Tom!!

which sander do you believe would be the better option, Ro125 or ET125?

 

[Motown]

Rob,

I've been slowly removing (room by room) paint in our home, a 1925 tudor. I've used a combination of RO 90 because of its versatility, RO125 for larger boards and mostly my ETS 125 (I've started at granat 60 grit). One other tool I recommend (may or may not be applicable) is this heat remover: http://www.eco-strip.com/SpeedKits.html

Good luck, show us some before and afters.