RAS 115

[ken257]

RAS 115 Review

The Test

I got to use the RAS 115 on my first refinishing project this past
week. I stripped down a door to bare wood. Paint had been chipping off
of it and I was worried that there might be some lead in the mix.
Since it was in my kids play room I didn't want to take a chance.
There were 4 layers of paint, the original milk paint, a cream colored
layer on top of that which is the questionable layer, a white layer
from the late 80's, and another white layer that I put on.

Using the RAS 115

First I tried 36 grit Rubin and I did have some trouble with the disk
loading up with paint as the top layer of latex was really soft. I
switched to 24 grit Saphir and the results were much better. Just as
Matthew had stated I found that the best speed to use was a setting of
3. Even still I had to keep the sander moving so that it would not
heat up the finish and clog the sanding disk. The RAS is different
then other sanders. You don't lay the disk flat on the work piece, you
just use the tip just as you would an angle grinder. I had the best
luck placing the sander down and then pulling it in one direction then
lift ot up and repeat. This keeps you from heating up the finish or
the disk. I was also very pleased with the way the RAS sanded into
corners where 2 surfaces meet at right angles. The cross boards on the
door only needed a light pass with a detail sander to clean them up.

Here is a list of the papers and sanders that I used from start to finish.

I started with 24 grit with the RAS then moved to the Rotex 150 with
40 grit Cristal, 80 grit Rubin, then 120 grit Rubin. I also ued a
DTS400 to get into the tight spots uning 40, 80, and 120 grit
Brilliant. This was the first timme I used the DTS400 with paper
courser then 80. It's rate of removal with 40 grit exceeded my
expectations, this is one little sander that I love and would not want
to be without.

Dust Collection

The dust collection is not as good as other Festool sanders. But to be
fair other sanders do not even compare to the rate of material removal
that the RAS delivers. My Rotex 150 cannot even come close! Since the
weather was nice I chose to strip the door outside. With my CT22 set
to max the RAS seemed to get most of the fine dust. I couldn't find
any trace of dust on my close, in my hair, or on my face around the
dust mask. This is very good just in case there was any lead. What I
did end up with is a lot of large debris on the ground which if you
were working inside could easily be sucked up with a shop vac. Large
debris are not a problem. It is the fine stuff that makes a mess and
also poses a health risk. So even though the area looks messy after
you are done it is not really that bad.

The dust extraction is adequate for the extremely fast rate of material removal that the RAS
provides. I don't think that you could expect much more for a dust extraction setup that doesn't get in your way or obscure your visability.

Concluding Thoughts

I can see myself reaching for this sander a lot, not just for
stripping finishes but anytime a good amount of wood needs to be
removed.

For example I just used it to sand a piece of molding flush with the
back of a cabinet that I am building out of scrap wood.

I also will be using the RAS to do some shaping of pine wood derby
cars that the kids a church are starting next week.

Overall I really like the RAS. It does it's job quicker then any other
sander and is easy to use. The dust collection is a bonus as most
sanders/angle grinders don't have any. I do want to try hooking a
larger hose (36mm instead of 27mm) up from the CT to the RAS and see
if the increased airflow helps improve the dust collection.

 

[jaegerhund]

Nice review Ken257 (Ken I suppose?) --- I've tried Rubin also with mixed results.  I believe the Saphir is a better choice when removing caked on paint.  Also, with a little practice, you can cut down on the debris considerably.  You are right about the RAS 115 and Rotex being different animals ---- the RAS is much faster in removing paint.

Justin

 

[greg mann]

I used my RAS115 this weekend on a similar challenge. I am refinishing a couple small floors and the challenge for me was the edges. The last time someone sanded the floor they left the molding on and overcut the edges, leaving a low channel along the edges that needed to be removed. I took off the molding to expose the entire floor. The material under the molding was about 1/32 higher than the rest of the floor and the Rotex just wasn't going to get it. I have the older generation with no edge guard so the orbits were bumping me into the wall and there was just too much sander to control.

Enter the RAS115 with 36 grit Rubin. Just like Ken, I leveled out the disc and then tipped the back edge up slightly. I could feather the disc by watching the scratch pattern and the ridge pretty much melted away. An added bonus was the lack of vibration due to no orbits. Also, with just a small amount of practice this sander can knock down high spots without gouging. There were high seams in various spots on this floor that you could see from the way the finish was coming off and by running your hand over the surface. A couple swipes with the RAS and you were back to level. Then, the RO150 could do its job in a fraction of the time without that step.

In general, I agree with Per that floors need floor sanders, but without a little practice I think one could get into a mess with a big machine. The Rotex will keep you out of trouble and even the RAS is suitable for knocking down high spots and rough edging under certain circumstances. I would equate it with doing body work, but easier, since you are feeling for flat instead of fairing curves. The RAS has good dust control for its breed. What is left behind is on the wood and not in the air and I can live with that. If you don't think the DC is adequate unplug the hose for ten seconds and you will change your mind in one. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

I used my RAS115 this weekend on a similar challenge. I am refinishing a couple small floors and the challenge for me was the edges. The last time someone sanded the floor they left the molding on and overcut the edges, leaving a low channel along the edges that needed to be removed. I took off the molding to expose the entire floor. The material under the molding was about 1/32 higher than the rest of the floor and the Rotex just wasn't going to get it. I have the older generation with no edge guard so the orbits were bumping me into the wall and there was just too much sander to control.

Enter the RAS115 with 36 grit Rubin. Just like Ken, I leveled out the disc and then tipped the back edge up slightly. I could feather the disc by watching the scratch pattern and the ridge pretty much melted away. An added bonus was the lack of vibration due to no orbits. Also, with just a small amount of practice this sander can knock down high spots without gouging. There were high seams in various spots on this floor that you could see from the way the finish was coming off and by running your hand over the surface. A couple swipes with the RAS and you were back to level. Then, the RO150 could do its job in a fraction of the time without that step.

In general, I agree with Per that floors need floor sanders, but without a little practice I think one could get into a mess with a big machine. The Rotex will keep you out of trouble and even the RAS is suitable for knocking down high spots and rough edging under certain circumstances. I would equate it with doing body work, but easier, since you are feeling for flat instead of fairing curves. The RAS has good dust control for its breed. What is left behind is on the wood and not in the air and I can live with that. If you don't think the DC is adequate unplug the hose for ten seconds and you will change your mind in one. 

It's great that the RAS115 and your skill were up to the task but imagine the RAS115 on mega-steroids and training wheels. Then you would have this thing,

A real flooring machine, made to do exactly what you were doing. And, you can rent them. All kidding aside this is another of my all time favorite tools (I do not own one though, I don't own a milling machine either  ). It really does what it is designed to do. Since it has a convex platen (and training wheels) only a thin pie shaped section of the disk is in contact with the floor so there is no unpredictable scoring and for half of the perimeter of a room the scoring is parallel to the grain.

With practice, you can run this thing down the length of the floor boards through the middle of the floor. Might sound crazy but this is great  when you have the occasional board that tilts up on one side. This machine will grind it down without touching the adjacent boards. There is no risk of tilting and the serious gouging that comes with the drum type floor machine.

 

[D. Wyatt]

I used my RAS115 this weekend on a similar challenge. I am refinishing a couple small floors and the challenge for me was the edges. The last time someone sanded the floor they left the molding on and overcut the edges, leaving a low channel along the edges that needed to be removed. I took off the molding to expose the entire floor. The material under the molding was about 1/32 higher than the rest of the floor and the Rotex just wasn't going to get it. I have the older generation with no edge guard so the orbits were bumping me into the wall and there was just too much sander to control.

Enter the RAS115 with 36 grit Rubin. Just like Ken, I leveled out the disc and then tipped the back edge up slightly. I could feather the disc by watching the scratch pattern and the ridge pretty much melted away. An added bonus was the lack of vibration due to no orbits. Also, with just a small amount of practice this sander can knock down high spots without gouging. There were high seams in various spots on this floor that you could see from the way the finish was coming off and by running your hand over the surface. A couple swipes with the RAS and you were back to level. Then, the RO150 could do its job in a fraction of the time without that step.

In general, I agree with Per that floors need floor sanders, but without a little practice I think one could get into a mess with a big machine. The Rotex will keep you out of trouble and even the RAS is suitable for knocking down high spots and rough edging under certain circumstances. I would equate it with doing body work, but easier, since you are feeling for flat instead of fairing curves. The RAS has good dust control for its breed. What is left behind is on the wood and not in the air and I can live with that. If you don't think the DC is adequate unplug the hose for ten seconds and you will change your mind in one. 

Greg,

Regarding your last sentence on the DC on the RAS I can certainly relate to that. 

Today I was working on some small areas of a floor and was switching back and forth between the Rotex and the RAS.  On one switch to the RAS I quickly noticed alot of debris building up on the floor and thought something had gone really wrong so I shut the machine down.  At first glance I saw that I had forgot to hook up the DC hose when I switched.  Problem solved.

This to me is a very good reason to get me another CT unit.  ;D

Darrin

 

[jaegerhund]

Yeah just run it a few minutes without the DC and you will appreciate what this little bad boy is doing --- the thing is Festool(s) do things so well in general that I sometimes start taking them for granted in all aspects from dust collection to ease of performance --until I try a different method (smacks you in the face)

Justin

 

[ken257]

This past week I took the RAS and my CT22 to church to work on pinewood derby cars that the kids are making. First I had the kids draw a design for their cars on the block, next I took them home and cut them on the band saw. I then brought them back and did the final shaping with the RAS right inside the church building. Some of the kids wanted major changes so I removed quite a bit of material with the RAS on several cars, others just minor adjustments. When I was finished there was nothing to clean up at all and no dust in the air, the dust collection worked great although the kids did make some dust by hand sanding that needed to be cleaned up. This confirms what I originally suspected that it only the course stuff that gets left behind. What I made at church was all fine dust on raw wood (pine). Next I will have to try the RAS again on another stripping job but this time with a 36mm hose. I do agree with the above post that we do get spoiled by Festools dust collection but how much more could you expect from such an aggressive sander, it does a wonderful job and has many uses besides just stripping paint. The longer I have the RAS the more useful it becomes.

 

[jaegerhund]

Ken -- what paper did you use for shaping the cars?  Did you have any problems with the pad getting too hot?

Thanks --

Justin

 

[nickao]

Okay if this really has more balls than the Rotex, I am in and will order it today.

Is it really that much more powerful, hard to believe?

nickao

 

[jaegerhund]

Nickao -- It is considerably more powerful --- you have to be a little careful with it.

Justin

 

[ken257]

Okay if this really has more balls than the Rotex, I am in and will order it today.

Is it really that much more powerful, hard to believe?

nickao

I have the RO150FEQ and it doesn't even come close to the RAS in speed of material removal. The RAS is true rotary and with a max of 4000 rpm it eats up wood fast. When you want a job done quickly the RAS is the tool. I do love my RO150 but when I have rough work to do I reach for the RAS.

jaegerhund I used saphir 50 for reshaping and rubin 80 for all else. After having the RAS for a while now I only see 4 papers that are needed 24, 36, 50 saphir and rubin 80. I also have not had the pad overheat on me yet for any task that I have done.

 

[nickao]

Sounds like what I am looking for!

 

[Premium Millwork Install]

FIrst of all thanks for this post. I was doing my research for a project. Strip and refinish a bar top (approx 250 sq ft solid mahoagny) numerous coats of poly.

  The process

  RAS with 50 grit to scuff the top. Apply Methyl Chloride stripper( Keep rubber gloves on and long sleeves dont rub your nose)  ate the majority of the finish up.

  Card scraper to remove the excess.

  50 grit to remove the rest of the finiish.

DO not let this thing set in one place to long it will eat.

  80 grit to even things up and take off the stain.

  Switch to the RO 125( which has gone to festool heaven)

  80 grit on rotary to lessen the scratches then 80 to RO takes out the rest of the scratches

100 Grit, 120 grit, 180 grit

  The bar looks better than it did brand new. SO the owner tells me.

  2 thumbs up for this machine it does the trick. Dust collection was awesome edge guide is a great thing.

Anthony

 

[jaegerhund]

That's really good Anthony --- I probably would have been too scared to use the RAS 115 on such a project.  It is easier to control than one would think ----- but, yeah, do not let it sit.

Justin